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Oh, that was close!

Les Henson

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Doing the swivel pins on a 110 today. Almost no oil at all in the swivel housing, at least there's not tons of foul gloop going everywhere. Anyway - I noticed the ball cage inside the cup of the CV had large chips out of it, and not only was the cage obviously cracked, but there was also a crack in the cup itself, which is a beefy item that normally only gets ruined in extreme off-road use. This vehicle is strictly an on-road vehicle, so I would have to assume that the damage was caused by a lack of lubrication.

So, a sobering reminder to check oil/grease level in the swivels. :D

There was a chip and/or crack like this at every bearing track:-


It must take a lot of force to crack the cup:-


I tried to remove the CV joint by clamping it in a vice like this and then Tapping, striking quite hard, clouting, and finally beating the living carp out of the joint. All to no avail.


In the end there's only one way to go :angry::D Mr 9-inch disc cutter is coming out to play!


Enough sparks to make a reasonable firework display later, and the CV joint is off. The inner cage was in several bits.


The ball tracks inside the cup were ribbed, so there was quite a bit of wear for some time.


Lucky the thing didn't get to break up. Still - an extra few quid for the CV joint unfortunately.

I have to do the other side as well - hope that's not going to be the same.

This is an off-shoot of a thread that's replacing the swivel pin bearings (railko type), and rear seal. It will be posted as a seperate thread in a couple of days.

Les. :)

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I cut the inner halfshaft for your benefit!

Les. :P

Very thoughtful. but try a 3ft length of 1 1/2'' water pipe next time. Drop the halfshaft down the pipe and the concentric shock force when the cv joint star strikes the pipe usually pops the shaft out. Not an original idea, but it has only failed me once in oh about 50 cv joint replacements.


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