damanic Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 I've had an inspection fail on my rear drum brakes (1989 LR90). Shoes, cylinder and drums need replacing they have been neglected so long! I've ordered the parts in and looked at the guides to see if I can do it myself.. I've never touched brake systems before but theres gotta be a first time for everything.. It doesnt look too difficult just a couple of issues that are holding me back Using this cylinder replacement guide as reference http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=33909 'Use a blocked pipe fitting to stop fluid loss' - I don't have one of these and I dont see how I can get one before the weekend. Maybe I can let it drip whilst I get the new one on What alternatives are there? Bleeding: 'open the bleed nipple, squeeze the pistons back in again, close the bleed nipple, etc, etc. After a few goes, clear liquid will squirt out and the brakes will then be bled.' Now this I would like to understand.. why does the fluid eventually run clear? My concern here is that it may not run clear. Im basically worried about stuffing up the brake fluid/bleeding. I'm hoping I can put on a new cylinder, pump it a few times till it runs clear and then only need to top up the main resovoir if needs be.. nothing more than that. Is it likely to be that simple? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Whereabouts are you? Someone local may be able to give you a hand. I would clamp the rear flexi brake hose if you can, helps to reduce fluid loss. Or take the reservoir cap off, put some clingfilm over the opening and then put the cap back on. It's quite a simple procedure to change the cylinders, so long as you can get the drums off and the brake lines are willing to let go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damanic Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 i've just moved over to melbourne AUS so on my own! Landy got shipped over and its gotta go through some thorough inspections before it gets on the road. With all the costs of late and 36 inspection fails I need to fix what I can. The rear flexihose is a braided stanless steel hose (****part).. will it clamp? I will make the resovoir cap airtight for sure. Those two in place I should be able to do it without capping off the brake line? Still baffeld by the bleed until clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Do not clamp the flexi you will bugger it. By run clear it means without air, usually when theres air you will hear a 'spurty' noise as the fluid comes out and when no air is left it will be a silent run of fluid. Bleeding is easy with a helper just take your time and FFS make sure you keep topping the fluid res up. A capped off or blocked pipe is usually an appropriate brake fitting with a short length of brake pipe hammered flat. If you are planning on doing more work on the landy i would look at getting yourself a flaring tool, pipe and fittings it will soon pay for itself. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damanic Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 ok got it.. get air in the system and you've got more work to do. Only way air is getting in is if you let the fluid drain beyond the resevoir. Right now cash flow is low so I do not want to buy a brake tool kit, fittings and pipe for this job on this occasion. If I seal up the resevoir filler I can let the pipe drip whilst I change the cylinder so long as I keep checking on the res level. Start with a brimming resevoir - keep checking it! Feeling more confident now - thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danebrewer Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 plus old cylinders will have a bunch of carp inside them, before I changed my calipers on the front, when I bled one, there was a lot of yuky brake fluid that came out, I bet it hadn't been changed in yonks either, but it should be a pretty easy job, like I say, I changed my front calipers, and fitted new pads, a new brake pipe on one side and made and fitted a brake pipe for the other, so if I can do it, so can you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 You will still have to bleed the air out of the cylinders but this takes 1/10th the time of bleeding the air all the way out from front to back and obviously uses less brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brighouse shed Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 make sure your helper knows what they need to do i.e. push pedal to floor when told and hold until told to let up to top before pushing to floor again. not push up and down like a bloody yo yo till your dear father teaches you new words which you need to ask him to repeat as he is somewhere contorting himself like a 1970's paul daniels show star turn in the engine bay with a tube in one hand and a set of stillys in the other Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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