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All brights - 24v


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Hi all,

Just aquired an albright solenoid pack, only problem is its 24v not 12v.

Now, in my simple brain, it figures that the "low tension" side is just throwing the switch to activate the big boys?

Ive tested the "low tension" with a test probe on 12v and the relay clicks, so can I assume that they will work ok?

Also, I couldnt understand how continuity is through High Power in, F1 and F2, is that right?

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Hi all,

Just aquired an albright solenoid pack, only problem is its 24v not 12v.

Now, in my simple brain, it figures that the "low tension" side is just throwing the switch to activate the big boys?

Ive tested the "low tension" with a test probe on 12v and the relay clicks, so can I assume that they will work ok?

Also, I couldnt understand how continuity is through High Power in, F1 and F2, is that right?

I put a albright connection diagram in the Tech Archive :i-m_so_happy:

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The only difference between the 12 and 24 volt Albrights is the voltage the switch throws in at.

So you could use your 24 volt on a 12 volt car if you find away of supplying to 24 volts to switch.

What you pass through the solenoid is unimportant.

Equally, flog the unit and buy the right one :P

Jim :)

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The only difference between the 12 and 24 volt Albrights is the voltage the switch throws in at.

So you could use your 24 volt on a 12 volt car if you find away of supplying to 24 volts to switch.

What you pass through the solenoid is unimportant.

Equally, flog the unit and buy the right one :P

Jim :)

BUY :ph34r: the right one? This one was free! :P:P:P

As posted, the switch seems to be throwing (well its giving an audible click).

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Hmmm, just musing here but would I be able to keep my 12V albrights if I go 24V? I've got a pair of very good Warn Albrights that are a year or so old on both winches and it'd be good to keep them. Would there be any issues running 24V through the low tension side or wouldn't they like it? Running 12V isn't a big problem, though, but it'd make the wiring a bit simpler using 24V on both sides of the solinoids.

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Solenoids are ancient victorian inventions although their principle of operation is still the same. They work by passing current trough a coil wrapped around iron to produce a magnetic field, this field attracts a contact that closes a circuit.

The amount force to pull on the contact depends on the power of the electro magnet which natrually depends on the current flowing throught the wires.

Now form the above, you can probably guess what the problems will be when using a voltage other than what the coil was designed for.

1. Using too small a current will mean a smaller force, this may not be enough to hold the contact fully closed even though it makes nice reassuring clicks; this may result in arcing, heating or other damage to the contacts. On the otherhand it may work perfectly well.

2. Using too much current in the fine wires comprising the electromagnet may make them very unhappy, so much so they end up impersonating Lucas smoke, but they'll only do that once. On the otherhand it may work perfectly well but less likley than in case 1. This is easier to fix by putting in a drop resistor.

case 1 is when you use 12 V with a solenoid designed for 24 V

case 2 is when you use 24 V with a solenoid designed for 12 V

So in short, use the correct voltage for the device as after all, the designers didn't slap on a random 12 V or 24 V sticker for no reason.

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1. Using too small a current will mean a smaller force, this may not be enough to hold the contact fully closed even though it makes nice reassuring clicks; this may result in arcing, heating or other damage to the contacts. On the otherhand it may work perfectly well.

So in short, use the correct voltage for the device as after all, the designers didn't slap on a random 12 V or 24 V sticker for no reason.

Yep, after testing last night, the 12v does produce a click, but wont hold the switch closed.

(Im running twin batterys - dont suppose its possible to supply just the albrights with 24v without it leaking back into the 12v system?)

Anybody want to swop a 24v albright for a 12v :rolleyes::unsure:

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Hmmm, just musing here but would I be able to keep my 12V albrights if I go 24V? I've got a pair of very good Warn Albrights that are a year or so old on both winches and it'd be good to keep them. Would there be any issues running 24V through the low tension side or wouldn't they like it? Running 12V isn't a big problem, though, but it'd make the wiring a bit simpler using 24V on both sides of the solinoids.

Will,

As I understand, you intend to run a Giggle Pin dual motor winch. So you need to use 2 Albrights - one for each motor.

Now I will toss in this idea for you, for others with better electrical credo than I, to think about and comment on.

Each 12V Albright has 12V coils to close the motor contacts. If the coils of 2 Albrights were connected in series, then 24V would give you 12V in each coil (which is what they were designed for).

I'm just unsure (without looking at an Albright and the connection diagram), if it is possible to wire the Albright coils in series. You may have to do a mod inside (uscrew the the terminal posts to remove the cover), to enable 2 Albrights to connected in series.

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Will, you on the right track....

What you pass through the solenoid is unimportant.....

What switches it is..!

You are correct :) you can use your 12 volts and pass 24 through them :)

You use 12volt just for the switching.... :o

Piece of cake,

Once agian there is NO difference between the 12 and 24 apart the switch coils :)

regards

Jim :)

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Cheers Jim, it's nice to find something I'm not replacing :huh:

John, interesting idea; I hadn't thought of that. As far as the winch spec goes I'm still undecided but its a little way off yet as I've got so much more to do before I get round to throwing the winches onto the vehicle. After speaking to Jim I'm more inclinded to go for a larger single motor rather than the twin as its simpler and I'd really like to eventually look at custom motors for extra efficiency and to do some funky with controls.

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