Grant. Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hi all, Putting a range rover v8 in my 90 (late 3.9 efi) Neither the main relay, or the fuel pump relay are clicking, however there is power getting to the relay (fuel pump one is irrelevant, as its already wired up), and I know the relays are ok, as it was all pulled out of a running car. Ive got: 1x big brown and orange wire (has power constantly) 1x big brown and green wire (has power constantly) 2x small brown and orange wires (havent checked) 1x small blue and red wire (havent checked) Can anyone tell me where current is meant to be flowing from to in this instance? more than likey ive wired something incorrectly! anybody able to shed some light? Thanks very much in advance Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Does this help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke keeper of badger Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Grant is your coil wired back to ecu easy mistake.... luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 figured out the amplifiers missing ( Doh!) and, i dont think the coil is wired correctly tbh, have that wiring diagram off of another thread on here, but the colours are slightly different. Also, the wiring setup I have is the most modern setup, so the amplifier isnt attached to the side of the distributor, and I cant find the right amplifier or diagram to suit. Checked the earths on the back of the head, and there all ok, had the relay clicking randomly earlier, but it clicks regardless of the ignition switch poisition Cheers Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Ok, got relays to now click, was some bad earths, bought the amplifier required, made up the little bits of loom to make it work, and still, no spark! any one got any other ideas? Me and my mate are running out of options at the mo! Cheers Grant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Also, the wiring setup I have is the most modern setup, so the amplifier isnt attached to the side of the distributor, and I cant find the right amplifier or diagram to suit. I was under the impression that the later ones DID have the amp on the dizzy, or was it removed really late in production( 98- or summat?) Certainly the late 3.9s you talk about had the amp on the dizzy for sure... have you got a mix and match parts setup there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 If both the large wires going to the relay have power to them, it means that the relay is working and activated. But Bowie69 has done a number of these conversions and knows a lot more than me about how to wire them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 You do need the *other* side of the coil to be grounded, I believe the Hotwire ECU works by grounding the other side of the coil to activate the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 You talked about having the fuel pump wired up directly, but what have you done for the Lambda sensors as they are also powered from the fuel pump relay (or are you not running any by changing the tune resistor?) Do you know the ECU is good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 You should still get a spark without the ECU plugged in, the ignition side is completely separate from the EFI side, bar one wire, which won't stop you getting a spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 1x big brown and orange wire (has power constantly) 1x big brown and green wire (has power constantly) 2x small brown and orange wires (havent checked) 1x small blue and red wire (havent checked) The big brown orange goes to power the injectors, etc The big brown green goes to the ignition power circuit and provides power the the big brown orange when the relay is active The second thinest brown orange (next to the big one) goes and powers some of you sensors. The thinest brown orange and the blue red both go to the ECU to activate the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Got it running in the end, was duff wiring in the loom between the Dizzy and the coil. Put a slightly earlier dizzy in which had the amplifier bolted to the side, which eliminated more guesstimated wiring and plugs, (instead of on a heat sink plate on the front panel), reset the timing, plugged it all up, vroom! Thanks very much for all the help again guys, much appreciated as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 You talked about having the fuel pump wired up directly, but what have you done for the Lambda sensors as they are also powered from the fuel pump relay (or are you not running any by changing the tune resistor?) Ive left all the original loom in place, so both relays are there and clicking, Just used the original fuel pump power feed and relay, as it was already relayed and was alot easier to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 I was under the impression that the later ones DID have the amp on the dizzy, or was it removed really late in production( 98- or summat?) Certainly the late 3.9s you talk about had the amp on the dizzy for sure... have you got a mix and match parts setup there? The even later ones had them on the front panel next to the rad mount on an ali plate that acted as a heat sink, not sure why they changed it again, as all it did was give more things to go wrong! Good old land rover! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Ive left all the original loom in place, so both relays are there and clicking, Just used the original fuel pump power feed and relay, as it was already relayed and was alot easier to work Doing that will mean that the fuel pump will not switch back off if the motor is not running. This function is controlled by the ECU. So whenever the ignition is on the pump will run and pressurise the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Doing that will mean that the fuel pump will not switch back off if the motor is not running. This function is controlled by the ECU. So whenever the ignition is on the pump will run and pressurise the system. Its all off the ignition switch and an additonal fuel pump isolator switch, so the pump still switches off when the ignition is switched off, and is also switched off when the isolator is off. But yes, when the ignition is on it will run the pump and pressurise the system. I did that because a friend who had done the conversion previously had a problem where the fuel pump would cut out when he was cranking the engine, which meant that it was a pain to start, thought I would eliminate that and keep with the bit of the system that worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.