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drivers door lock


barriesheene

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Hi guy's. I cant unlock my drivers side door. Its been playing up, ( 2 or 3 tugs on the interior handle to get it to release ), but now it wont open at all. I've done a search but its nothing to do with the central locking, that's all working as it should. You can hear the lock moving when you move the handles, ( inside and out ) Its as if the mech isnt moving quite enough to disengage. Trouble is now I cant get the door card off to have a look ! :)

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it will probably just be the linkage that goes from the lock to the handle thats come adrift you will need to get the door card off to check though,, you should be able to remove the door card with the door closed(a bit of a pain but it can be done) good luck with it.

ron.

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Thanks Ron. This was my first thought but the lock itself is moving so must be still attatched. The fact its been intermittent till now must mean that the linkage is still working or it would just stop working. Are the locks adjustable ?? Could it have been moving gradually and now moved too far ?

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I'm not sure you've understood Ron's comments... the lock is (sort of) independent from the opening handle. The lock may undo (pop up), but the handle that you're tugging to open the door may need reconnecting internally.

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I'm not sure you've understood Ron's comments... the lock is (sort of) independent from the opening handle. The lock may undo (pop up), but the handle that you're tugging to open the door may need reconnecting internally.

Yes I think there are too many uses for the word lock :) I will try and explain better. If you pull on the inner or outer door handle to open the door the actual locking mech can be heard to move. The clamp, ( door) that locks on to the bar, ( body ). Its as if it isnt actually moving far enough to release. Just been out and the door opened ! I closed it cos it was raining quite hard and now it wont open again :rolleyes: .

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it still sounds very much like a linkage problem, just because the system seems to be moving does not mean that it is moving or pulling the distance it should on some cars the rods and links inside are adjustable,the length of the exterior handle to lock link rod is adjustable by screwing up or unscrewing from the lock assembly the length of the other rod/interior handle link rod can also be altered by rotating the spring tentioned nylock nut found on the end of said rod,, hope this is of help. ron.

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Yes I think there are too many uses for the word lock :) I will try and explain better. If you pull on the inner or outer door handle to open the door the actual locking mech can be heard to move. The clamp, ( door) that locks on to the bar, ( body ). Its as if it isnt actually moving far enough to release. Just been out and the door opened ! I closed it cos it was raining quite hard and now it wont open again :rolleyes: .

You should have at least taken the door card off while the door was open, raining or not!!

Dave

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Ok. All linkages connected. No signs of anything wrong TBH. I did notice however that the actual lock that clamps the door frame pin is covered with a rubber cover. I've trimmed any loose bits with a knife. I'm wondering if a bit of it was jamming the lock ??? I've cleaned, lubed and greased everything and all seems ok for now. Top tip for anybody struggling to get the handle bolts back in. Pack the 10mm socket with tissue/blue roll so that the bolt head only just fits in the socket. This will allow you to offer up the bolt without it slipping into the socket. :)

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It could be wear on the door hinges allowing the door to sag slightly, knocking out the lock alignment. Try lifting the rear edge of the door up and down with it nearly closed.

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Nice one snagger :) There is a bit of play. Noticed that the door is wearing on the A piller to :). How do I get rid of any slop ? It's not much but it is there. Locks working fine but I think thats because of the greasing that I gave it.

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I haven't got my RRC here to have a look at at the moment (same door shells), and I can;t remeber if they have any adjustment in that axis - I think the only adjustment is vertical and lateral (in/out to get the panels to line up smoothly). If that's correct, you might have to replace the hinge if its bad, but a metal or plastic shim between the hinge assembly and A-pillar on the lower hinge would work. I'd prefer a shim cut to the shape of the hinge rather than washers as it'll spread the load better; washers might press the A-pillar in around the bolt holes and deform it slightly, unless they're very large diameter and could also allow the hinge to rock on its bolts (which would eventually lead to failure of the hinge, bolts or A-pillar mounting point). Mark the hinge's position on the pillar before loosening any bolts so that you get it's position right when retightening - tape along the edges of the hinge or permanent marker lines will do fine.

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