Ridgeback Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I have a td5 90 CSW and need to removed the rear sides and roof trim. I started removing the plastic caps that I thought would uncover screws but I found what looks like rivets with a small white washer that holds the plastic caps in place. It looks like I will need to drill them all out to remove the trim? Does anyone know if this is a special rivet or just a standard rivet with a white plastic washer because I will need to replace them when I refit everything . Do they have a landrover part number ? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 those are 'fir tree' fastners use a flat blade screwdriver or a V shaped fork lever to prise them out. 2 versions http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/2444/AFU1900-TRIM-FASTENER.html?search=fir%20tree&page=2 http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8457/MWC9832LUH-FASTENER-FIR-TREE-TYPE.html?search=fir%20tree&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeback Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks western I found and removed a few of them but most of them have a small grey plastic cap (about the size of a no 8 screw head) I removed the plastic cap to find what looks like a rivet . I will go take a photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 the side trims are held by spring clips along the top edge, the lower edge secured with 3 screws into nutplates head liner has the fir tree fasteners, the trim panels around the small windows each side of rear door have a plastic cap over rivet heads these rivets secure the angled bracket to the trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeback Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 See photos attached of the fasteners. Do I drill out or pull them off? If I drill out any ideas of part numbers for replacements? Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 panel should just pull off the body, see my reply above the rivets secure the bracket/clips see page 940 http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/90/10_trim_seats_paint_extras_p924-1042.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Nooooooo, don't drill them out, those are the fixings for the sprung brackets / clips that hold the panel in place! Just ease the edge of that panel away from the door aperture, toward the front of the vehicle. As Ralph says the interior trim is held in by a combination of fir tree fasteners and clips so there's no need to drill or butcher anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeback Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks guys Sorry Ralph, did see your post above, just was not sure how to remove the trim still. All clear now . I will have another go at it, my roof lining is saging and I need to take the sides off to fit the mud stuff bulkhead bar, thought I would stick some sound proofing behind the trim once it's all off . Regards Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 once you pull the trim off you'll see the brackets/clips. with the side window trim there are 3 rectangular holes below the lower edge, you can get a finger in there to recover/refit the nut plates. feel along the top edge for 3 brackets & their spring clips which hold the top edge to the roof inner gutter. Hmm, some sound deading behind the trim is a good idea, might have to borrow that idea for my 110CSW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgeback Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks again for your help, might even get it all off without any broken trim! I plan to take the dash out and also soundproof the bulkhead and under the seat boxes. If I can make it a little less like a tractor, the fun prevention officer might drive it when I want driving back from the pub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 doubt you'll get much between dash & bulkhead, but below the dash & around the seatbox under the mat or carpet it'll be fairly easy to fit some sound deading material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I did this to my bulkhead: I used FatMat RattleTrap (which is about 2-3mm thick) between the bulkhead and the dash. Was easy enough, just had to make holes for various brackets, screw holes, cable ways etc. Also did floor pans and the entire seat box. And put the standard Land Rover soundproofing and then carpets over the top, the result of which is quite a quiet 90 for a 200Tdi. Still to come is to soundproof the rear wheelboxes and floor (currently just carpets/rubber matting) and also the rear side panels (van ones on mine) behind my carpeted trims, and then finally the doors and roof. Also planning on fitting an engine blanket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redcoat22 Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Does anyone know where to find these grey plastic caps? It seems like most defenders use a fir tree fastener but mine has white ones with the grey caps as shown above. I cannot find them anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 the grey caps are not listed as seperate parts, definitely not in my 1987 on 110 parts book. might find something on car builder solutions website as they suply all sorts of bits for kit car builders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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