Julian Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 I'm hopefully going to put my rebuilt gearbox in my Series 3 next week and I've got two questions so far: 1. Is it a good idea to replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel/crankshaft end? 2. Taking up the floors has been the normal struggle with rusted screws and spire nuts, does anyone do these items in stainless? Cheers Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeriesEwan Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 i got a set of stainless spire nuts off ebay , worked a treat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Change the bush, change the release bearing, i might even go so far as to say change the rear crank seal while you're at it. Stainless screws for the floor pans are all very well, but stainless and ali in the presence of saltwater* is a very bad combination. If you're going to use stainless fixings in ali you should really using nickel plated stainless. I have improved my 88 by putting the transmission tunnel on top of the floors, and by welding steel blocks to the diaphragm, so that the tunnel can be removed from the top, without removing the floors. When I rebuild the bulkhead, it will get blocks welded to it so that the floor pans are fitted similarly. *you get the underside splashed with saltwater ever year, thanks to our wonderful highways department who insist on covering our roads with salt every winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Stainless won't corrode but it may promote much faster galvanic corrosion of aluminium panels, I would just buy new BZP ones and just make sure you wash the mud off once a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 20, 2012 Author Share Posted July 20, 2012 Thanks chaps, good helpful advice as usual. Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Did a little more work today, floors, seat base, and roof off now so I can lift the GB out with my chain hoist and 'A' frame. 1. Will the gearbox come back far enough with the Fairey OD still on or should I remove it first? 2. Look at the state of this gearbox mount, look carefully and you can see it has a split in it due to it rusting right through - unbeliveable given how much oil these things leak! I'm sure new ones are not available, has anyone got a good one they would like to sell me? Failing that I'll have to get some 1/8th plate and weld some patches on :-( Cheers Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 gearbox will come out with overdrive still on, just remember, its only an ali casting though so try not to raunch it into the crossmember too much. Change the bush, change the release bearing, i might even go so far as to say change the rear crank seal while you're at it. Stainless screws for the floor pans are all very well, but stainless and ali in the presence of saltwater* is a very bad combination. If you're going to use stainless fixings in ali you should really using nickel plated stainless. I have improved my 88 by putting the transmission tunnel on top of the floors, and by welding steel blocks to the diaphragm, so that the tunnel can be removed from the top, without removing the floors. When I rebuild the bulkhead, it will get blocks welded to it so that the floor pans are fitted similarly. *you get the underside splashed with saltwater ever year, thanks to our wonderful highways department who insist on covering our roads with salt every winter. ej, im interested to know what you mean about the steel blocks? cant quite picture that, also i keep meaning to put my tunnel on top of my floors every time i take the bloody thing out, but never have the time to make sure its all watertight when done, so i keep "leaving it for now" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 23, 2012 Share Posted July 23, 2012 also, surprising its rotted so much when theres been so much oil all over it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 , but never have the time to make sure its all watertight when done, so i keep "leaving it for now" That's where you're going wrong - forget about watertightness, allow plenty of leakage then the water can run out faster than it can run in Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 ej, im interested to know what you mean about the steel blocks? cant quite picture that, also i keep meaning to put my tunnel on top of my floors every time i take the bloody thing out, but never have the time to make sure its all watertight when done, so i keep "leaving it for now" Its not a very good picture but its the only one I've got.... The red bit is the bit that bolts to the bulkhead, and now has a 30x6 block welded to the back of it. Then the cream bit is the bit that connects the first piece to the tunnel, which I put in place, drilled through, and tapped the steel block I'd welded on. You can see the welds at the bottom of the photo where the tunnel bolts to this bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 Out with the old and in with the new! Progress was steady as it was bloomin warm today, but the box I reconditioned is now in place. I decided to swap the OD unit seperately. Julian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 nice landy. anti burst locks too. nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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