Simon_CSK Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Noticed a couple of times now that after turning the engine on and running the car the gauge has not been working. Yesterday it did it for two starts and then started working normally. Any ideas or suggestions as to what could be wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 check the coolant temp. sensor's plug/wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 The standard LR gauge is useless anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 The standard LR gauge is useless anyway why would you say that? ...i disagree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 When it fails to work the red warning LED is lit. I will check the wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierrafery Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 here are the possible issues(from RAVE): The ECT sensor can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal: l Sensor open circuit. l Short circuit to vehicle supply. l Short circuit to earth. l Incorrect mechanical fitting. l Signal fixed above 40 °C (104 °F) not detected. l Signal fixed below 40 °C (104 °F) not detected. In the event of an ECT sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed: l Difficult cold start. l Difficult hot start. l Driveability concerns. l Instrument pack temperature warning illuminated. l Temperature gauge reads excessively hot. l Temperature gauge reads excessively cold. In the event of component failure the ECM calculates coolant temperature from the fuel temperature sensor signal. If this occurs, the limit engine operation if coolant temperature is too high becomes inoperative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 I agree with SF Jim, the standard unit is fine, I've tested mine with pyro in boiling water and the sensor is spot on, +/- 2 degrees at 90 C. Where it falls short is it will register a less than normal temperature when there is no water in the system, as in the sensor being allowed to register normal temp (95 C) and then being suspended over the boiling water, the temp doesnt go up, being in steam it actually falls so the best solution is to fit a coolant sensor that gives an alarm if there is a lack of the essential fluid in the coolant system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Ok, maybe it's the Defender gauge that is useless - it reads 'in the middle' from 50°C to 110°C. I have a VDO sender and gauge that takes 15km to get to the middle and moves all the time but apparently some people don't like that so LR deliberately specify their gauges to not tell you anything much. By the time the gauge starts reading high the engine is cooked. Interesting thing is that the Disco TD5 gauge is made by VDO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Yeah, guages are a real conundrum, I also have a VDO guage with the sender in the standard thermostat housing location and the original measures the head temperature replacing the blanking plug on the top of the cylinder head between the centre exhaust ports. The new VDO was so far out I had to install a micro variable potentiometer to adjust the resistance so that the guage indicated the correct temperature - and on top of all this I have a low fluid sensor in the top of the radiator -- anally retentive !!! but in our 50 C plus temperatures to be forewarned is to be rewarded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 I have a coolant level switch mounted in the overflow tank coupled to a buzzer. Very simple. They now make fancy boxes that measure just about anything you want if you have the sensors fitted for oil pressure, boost pressure etc. These use two stainless self-tapping screws at the correct level in the tank about an inch apart. It's rather like my VDO mechanical boost gauge which is coupled to the Tdi pressure line from the turbo to the pump. Again simple, especially as a boost sensor costs a fortune. (again from VDO). In the garage we once fitted a VDO sensor and gauge to a Defender Tdi. The owner came back a week later and insisted we refit the LR gauge which is about as much use as a smiley face He didn't like the way the temp went up on uphills and down on downhills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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