Over the top

[pritch1]

Just out of interest really and having bent another sumo bar, i was wondering if anyone had ever thought of doing an over the top steering convesion for the steering bar below the diff on the from axle of a defender. Seen it done on plenty of suzukis etc. anyone ever attempted it on a landy. might be a nice little project, can you think of any disadvantages of this system?

[Andy]

ive had similar thoughts in the past. from discussing with mates we came up with the following problem. it'd appear that without HUGE bumpstops a trackrod above the hockey sticks would hit the chassis. never tested it though, was just on what looked like it'd happen.

[TomG]

Another option would be to relocate the track rod to in front of the axle, seen some newer defenders where the drivers side swivel housing has an unused steering arm forward facing arm (presumably for drag link on LHD models).

Looked into this a while ago, securely joining the trackrod and drag link on the passenger side and clearance issues (unless it's got a reasonable lift) could be tricky

This setup also affects the ackerman angle (handling and possibly increased tyre wear when cornering)

Gave up on the idea in the end, fitted a gwyn lewis trackrod guard, 35's and hit things at twice the speed

Alternatively... go portal!

[RPR]

Alternatively... go portal!

[bill van snorkle]

I posted something along these lines in the Series forum.

I have been running reverse Ackerman angles on my portal axled Landy for years, and I would never go back to normal Ackerman linkage. The steering feels sharper, more direct and positive,Tyre scrub? Front tyres (Simex Pedes)don't scallop anymore, they stay square and sharp and last longer. The turning circle is even tighter. Making a tight turn on a damp lawn only leaves a defined Simex tread print, no scuffing or gathering of the grass and soil.

i would highly recommend that someone get hold of a RHS TD5 Defender swivel housing and make an up front track rod that has a tapered eye for the draglink to plug into similar to leaf sprung LandCruisers, Nissans etc. You have very little to lose and everything to gain, and if you don't like it, big deal, go back to the original setup.

Bill.

[Daan]

I posted something along these lines in the Series forum.

I have been running reverse Ackerman angles on my portal axled Landy for years, and I would never go back to normal Ackerman linkage. The steering feels sharper, more direct and positive,Tyre scrub? Front tyres (Simex Pedes)don't scallop anymore, they stay square and sharp and last longer. The turning circle is even tighter. Making a tight turn on a damp lawn only leaves a defined Simex tread print, no scuffing or gathering of the grass and soil.

i would highly recommend that someone get hold of a RHS TD5 Defender swivel housing and make an up front track rod that has a tapered eye for the draglink to plug into similar to leaf sprung LandCruisers, Nissans etc. You have very little to lose and everything to gain, and if you don't like it, big deal, go back to the original setup.

Bill.

I have looked at it, put the parts together to do it, but there is too much other stuff in the way. The Panhard rod (especially on a LHD vehicle which is what I have) is very close to the diff as is and will foul the draglink. I think the droparm is in the way on full bump as well.

Not saying its impossible, but not straightforward.

Daan

[bill van snorkle]

I have looked at it, put the parts together to do it, but there is too much other stuff in the way. The Panhard rod (especially on a LHD vehicle which is what I have) is very close to the diff as is and will foul the draglink. I think the droparm is in the way on full bump as well.

Not saying its impossible, but not straightforward.

Daan

No its not impossible. You may have to relocate the Panhard rod mount a little. I also have a panhard rod, and I have done a couple of Volvo portal conversions to coilers. It all looks a little daunting at first glance, but with a bit of juggling here and there it all works out pretty well.

I just cannot see any other solution to bending rear mounted trackrods without severely compromising ground clearance . Maybe a trackrod made from spring steel might work, I don't know, but I do know that a 2 ton vehicle pushing up against a 1 1/2'' diameter tube,jambed against a rock or stump is going to bend it no matter what it is made from.

Bill

[TomG]

Bill, good to hear it's do-able and the reverse Ackerman works out better!

I'm curious to see how it's done, did you need to weld any of the steering rods? (not allowed in UK regs as far as i know)

Do you have any photos?

Cheers

[dirtydiesel]

30mm od en24 d+t'd to take the landrover tre's job done!

I'm curious to see how it's done, did you need to weld any of the steering rods? (not allowed in UK regs as far as i know)

Last time i looked, welded steering components are allowed as long as in the (mot) testers opinion the remaufactured component is of equal or greater strength than the original.

Alternatively wrap the welded component up in gaffer tape, and as long as the tester carn't see it he carn't fail it. Remember the mot test is non-destructive so he carn't remove the tape either

[bill van snorkle]

Bill, good to hear it's do-able and the reverse Ackerman works out better!

I'm curious to see how it's done, did you need to weld any of the steering rods? (not allowed in UK regs as far as i know)

Do you have any photos?

Cheers

Tom, My vehicle has Stage 1 Series swivels fitted, but that's nether here nor there. I shortened and rethreaded a LR FC 101 trackrod tube. the 101 tie rod ends have a long unthreaded shank section onto which I welded a section of series steering arm with tapered hole to accept the tie rod end from the drag link.

I suck at this internet thing, but there is quite a clear photo of how the drag link attaches to the trackrod in the Members Vehicles Forum, under the thread titled Bills LR's.

Bill.