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V8 R380 & discs in S3 leafer


stevema

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Hi

Some parts of this has been covered in other threads which I've seen but some were quite old.

I've taken on a project S3. It's currently a rolling chassis that has been refurbished & has most panels lying loose but no engine nor gearbox.

As this will be a toy with little use I want a V8 in there and as there's no gearbox now my choice would be the R380. However I've read on other threads here that the gearlever is too far back on the R380. However if it was used on the 90 surely it can be convinced to fit a S3? I know this would mean a one-off (short) propshaft.

Also should I be OK with the Series rear diff or is it worth changing?

Maybe irrelevant but in order to keep a classic status & almost free road tax I need to keep the leaf springs. Is there anyway to fit disc brakes?

Thanks for any thoughts
Steve

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For discs view my treads..............

Also if you want to retain the gear lever in the same place, use a 4 cyl lt77 or a stubby r380 (spendy) and use a v8 adaptor like milners used to make, that will keep the box as short as possible especially if its a swb.

For the rear diff.....errr, if you get frisky with the skinny pedal then expect carnage, shafts will let go first, followed by some spiders or cross shafts.. a salisbury migth be better, but it will make the prop shaft even shorter.

G

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Worth saying you can't just change the rear diff for a coiler one as when you engage 4x4 the back will be trying to go 30% faster than the front!

V8 + R380 + LT230 is doable, it's what I run in the 109 but there's more propshaft space there. In an 88 you may need to move the engine forward, cut the back off the radiator panel & run a skinny (but wide) rad. Using a serpentine-belted V8 (later 3.9's, 4.0 or 4.6) will also shave a few inches off the nose.

Here's the space in my engine bay, minus a rad and front cover, there's actually a big gap even with it all fitted:

IMG_9227.JPG

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The four cylinder LT77 with short bellhousing and Milner adapter as Gremlin says above is what I would say too, this gives a total length of 32" from front of adapter to rear of hand brake drum.

This can be shortened by nearly 3" with a Rakeway short rear shaft and housing.

813mm and 70mm for the Metrics amongst us.

Hope that's of some help.

I have Santana axles and discs on mine, not much help maybe but if you want something measured let me know.


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Thanks for the feedback and offers of help.

I need to think this through carefully. Having a bare chassis anything seems possible but reality bites back :)

Gremlin any chance of meeting up sometime for a look at your Landy?

Thanks

Steve

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Yes sure, I live in siggiewi, just PM me, usually weekends i am a bit free, and next week landy will have some works on the front axle to resolve a swivel oil seal leak.

G

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Ah just re read your original post, no way will you be able to keep classic status if you change the engine and box, just be careful what you want to do, keeping just the chassis and leafs will not make it eleigible for classic status (ask me how i know!), I suggest you contact TM, they are very strict in regards!

G

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Hi Nick, no not the same but stricter i belive, when you apply for a classic status. The vehicle will go for an inspection to a board of inspectors who will scrutinise the vehicle and assign points, anything below 60pts from a 100 will not cut it, It must be as original as can be and that all items are age related. Over here there is a lot of abuse on car licences since they are expensive, so they try to curb this making sure its original as possible.

My series qualifies for the classic status on age (35 years from dtd of mfg), but for the rest there is no way it will ever qualify!

G

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