Disco-Ron Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 So,'96 300tdi. . Very stiff and creaky clutch pedal, lubricated the pedal, drained fluid, and the pedal action seems fine when there's no resistance, put fluid back in and it's really stiff again, I suspect the plate in the bellhousing, however that was new less than 10k ago, as was the clutch itself. . . Any ideas?? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 It could be a failing cylincer (more likely slave, but not necessarily), a bad flexible hose (perished inner lining), failing release fork or the release bearing carrier seizing on the pinion sleeve. And just because the clutch pressure plate is new, that can't be eliminated, especially if it was a pattern part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Think i'll pull the slave apart first, and see what its like inside........really don;t wanna pull the clutch out, as i need the truck to tow on friday! Ta. Ron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Had the same, oiled the pivot of the pedal, and it took quite a while for it to penetrate to the point where the creaking stopped. You may have already fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Stripped slave, no issue, stripped master, no issue, pedal moving fine not under load, will re assemble tomorrow night and keep everything crossed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hmm. I think f the pedal is fine with the hydraulics empty or disconnected, you can now discount that part. Good that the cylinders are serviceable. If you still get trouble, then I'd next replace the hose - not only is it external, but a collapsing hose will restrict fluid passage in a way that fits the symptoms very well. They don't last forever. I think the internal clutch issues are still possible but less likely than the hose, unless an event happened that was likely to melt the plastic of the release bearing carrier, but that usually only happens in very heavy driving in extremely hot climates (hence the aluminium after market versions). Still a guess, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Have put back together and bled it, oddly could feel slight creaking whilst bleeding, ie, clutch arm not moving! So suspect hose, will get new one, but gonna leave as is til after Friday... Ta for assistance!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Consider getting a Goodridge braided hose - it'll last much longer and will also be more efficient in transferring hydraulic pressure because it won't swell under pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Was aiming to get one, as i fitted the ones on the brakes when i swapped the chassis........ oddly, can't seem to find it listed available anywhere........ any ideas..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 try Dave @ Llama4x4pretty sure he could make one up for you, given the correct info on length & threaded ends sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I ordered one for my 109 from Paddocks. They probably do them for all models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.K.A Fishy Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Changed ALL my hoses to stainless braided. The difference was unbelievable ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 Update. Fitted new flexi yesterday, however whilst doing it I removed the breather that I have permanently in the wading plug hole, and there's oil. ....thick black oil. So, ordered new rear main and front seal for g box, HD release whilst I'm doing it, and will source clutch locally if its contaminated when I get it out, one job I could have done without! Think it's time to remove all breathers and make sure they're clear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 If the oil is black, it's probably from the engine, not the gear box. The gear box oil turns grey with age, and the clutch produces a reddish dust. The two could mix to make black, but I think you're looking at replacing the crank shaft seal in the flywheel housing. If so, the clutch and flywheel need to be removed for access. I can't remember whether the flywheel housing needs to come off the block - I don't think it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 When I can see in the bell housing I'll see where the leak is, did the crank seal on my old disco, no need to remove the housing. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.