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200tdi defender conversion


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hi guys,, im having a problem with a conversion im nearly finshed doing..when i start the 90 its runs very fast..i know i had some intercooler hoses ect mixed up but i beleive they are sorted now.. i slackened off the throttle cable.. slackened the bolt that allows the throttle linkage to goes back to rest further back..when i kill the engine i hear a slight hissing noise so guess i might have an air leak somewhere but cant find it as its stopped by the time i get under the bonnet.. any suggestions, its a defender 90 2,5 na with a defender 2tdi installed..thanks guys..,i was trying to post this in the tech bit but it said i couldnt.. cheers.

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The hissing could come from a number of sources. I would suggest the most likely are the brake servo vacuum system or, more worryingly, a fault in the engine that is resulting in pressurisation of the coolant (head gasket failure or a crack or erosion of the head or block). Run the engine up to temperature and then let it cool completely. If the header tank is still pressurised when cold (remove the cap), then it's cylinder gasses getting into the coolant system.

The idle speed is set by adjusting a stop bolt on the front end of the injection pump against which the throttle arm rests - get someone to move the pedal while you watch the pump, and you will see the throttle arm moving and thus see the idle stop bolt.

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Thanks for moving this for me. I was using my phone and couldnt do it earlier. I know the engine lay out of a landy for a couple of years. Can I run it without the expansion cap and servo hoses connected? Hope its not a head gasket as I haven't even driven it since I bought it. Thanks guys.

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You can try that screw. Just rotate it a little at a time, no more than 90 degrees, and make a note of its starting orientation and how much you have moved it ach time so that you can set it back to its current position if need be.

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Yeah. No difference at all. When I bought the engine I was told it had a new belt. Could it be the timing out slightly? Im getting worried im going have to fit a new injection pump as I don't know what else to look at. How easy it to swap a pump over? Never done it before.

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Had a landy mechanic look over the 90 today. Even he was. Bit stumped. So we decided to start stripping the timing case ect for removing the pump. When we took the belt.tensioner off the fuel pump jumped back a fair bit. Could it just be the pump was under tension from the belt and was jammed open?

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The pump sprocket settles in specific rotational positions because of the internal cam plate and plungers' spring pressure. The engine should have been set to TDC with a flywheel and pump locking tool before loosening the belt (the fact the pump "jumped" suggests this wasn't done) - you may well have lost the timing alignment between the camp shaft and crank shaft now. You can use the marks on the sprockets and timing case to realign it all, but for Christ's sake take the injectors or glow plugs out and only use a standard ratchet to turn the crank over with one hand - don't use a long bar as you need to feel any increase in resistance on the crank to stop immediately - it'll be the pistons moving up against the open valves, and forcing it iw bend the push rods and possibly damage the valves, pistons, rockers and shaft, cam followers and slide!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Where's it leaking? I don't think there is such an additive, and I wouldn't recommend it if there was - it'd gum up the injectors, causing the piston damage you can see on someone's 300 thread on the Disco forum.

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