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Clutch or Slave


suvvey

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Hi all. Been a long while since I last visited :blush:

Just looking for some confirmation to help cheer me up.

Finished changing the clutch in my 200tdi last night (already took a day longer than it should of) after the release lever failed. Before putting the floor back in I gave it a go and was pleasantly surprised at who much quieter it was at idle with and without the clutch pedal down. But when I tried to change gear it wouldn't let me and just crunched.

When it originally failed I was crawling around underneath on the side of the road in the rain so accidentally got carried away and pushed the pedal too far when the slave was out to check this wasn't the issue. Predictably it popped the piston out so I carefully put back but assumed it would need bleeding in the short term if not replacing as they are so cheap. But when I tried to bleed it the nipple was full of crud and even with the nipple fully out it is obviously still blocked inside. Will be trying to source a new one locally today but just wanted someone else to tell me that the crunchy lack of gear change is due to air in the system and not me screwing up the clutch assembly....... Please? :unsure:

Please attach your confirmation and much needed motivational pep talk below :rolleyes:

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If you've disturbed the hydraulics and not bled it then yes it could well be air in the system not allowing the proper travel of the slave cylinder and therefore not fully disengaging the clutch.

I have found that when replacing the slave cylinder (which I've had to do a few times now) I can only get it so good by bleeding, enough so the clutch just works. And then over the next few days the rest of the air self-bleeds from the system and you're back to the normal pedal stroke/feel.

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Yup seems to of been an air issue. New slave in and several attempts at bleeding and it is almost spot on. Just the occasional light crunch when selecting a gear from a stand still. I will give it a couple more days then have another go if it hasn't sorted itself out. Then maybe look at pedal adjustment or I guess the master cylinder if I run out of other alternatives.

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I'd definitely check the pedal adjustment sooner rather than later unless you are fond of clutch changing; if the release bearing is in constant contact with the pressure plate, it can get hot. And soon it melts, unless you have gone for the metal ones. Either way it doesn't do the bearing or the plate any good.

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I would fit a new slave first. Don't fit to bell housing though to bled. Bolt a bar across the end of the cylinder using the mounting holes, let the cylinder hang vertically on the hose and then bled. Remove bar, fit cylinder to bell housing. Bottom of pedal must be 140mm from floor and then adjust push rod on master - there needs to be 1.5mm of free play between the end of the rod and cylinder piston. Pedal should be able to be depressed at least 6mm before there is movement of the master cylinder input piston.

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