jason110 Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Good evening ladies and gentlemen. Vehicle info - 1966 SWB series 2a 2.25 petrol, no modifications other than a turner unleaded head. We got back from a spin today and as we went to put the old girl back in the shed. we left her idling as we faffed and farted about. So oil pressure light comes on , I give it a rev and the light goes out, on returning to idle the light comes on again. Its not happened before today and on start up, the light normally goes out. Now should I assume the worst? I'm going to replace the pressure sender and the oil filter to see how that goes. Failing that, is there anything else obvious im missing or simple I can try before I take the sump off and have a look at the oil pickup and then the pump. The engine still runs ok and there is no change in performance. Any help appreciated. Cheers jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 Change the oil switch and do a pressure check with a temporarily fitted gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Check the oil level first - if it's low, the oil will be circulating more frequently around the engine, getting hotter, and will also lose the heat sink capacity of a large body of oil, thinning it down. If the level is OK, then replacing the filter will ensure that you are not getting restricted flow at idle. If still an issue, then replacing the switch as planned will eliminate the possibility of a fault there, but it seems unlikley. Using a thicker oil like Halfords 10W50 should stave of an engine rebuild for some time. If it does come to that, crank shaft bearings are pretty cheap and can be done without removing the engine or the head, just the sump, and while the sump is off you can remove the oil pump for stripping and inspection - it could be worn rotors, or a weakened pressure regulator valve spring, even a dirt-seized pressure valve or scoring in its bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Cheers for the feedback Gents, Ill report back when i know more. I have checked the oil level, should of mentioned, it is approx halfway up the dipstick. To be honest, its 11 years since i did anything serious to the old girl, to add to the above, reverse gear is making a funny noise, which i believe is a bronze bushing that is worn; so im planning to take out the engine and gearbox to give the whole area a clean up and paint. jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 I know it's been a while but I just thought I would bring some closure to this, and ask another question! In the end we bled out the air from the pressure switch, seems to have done the trick! I've found a combined lube oil pressure and water temperature gauge. It's a genuine landrover item. Does have anyone have pictures of their installations so I can see if anything is missing and how it's attached! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serious Series Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Page 15 of the optional parts catalogue pdf 3 shows he components. If you do not have a copy do a search for Smithies landrover which will bring up a NZ site of interest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 What oil is everyone using in there engines? Seems the oil light comes on when she is warmed up, only at low revs thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 With regular 10W40, the light should never show. Unless you have used a lighter oil (lower numbers, like 5W30), then you have a fault. It could be a pressure switch, a leaking oil pump pressure relief valve or worn bearings and journals on the crank and cam shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Recommended oil is 20/50 isn't it? Thinner oil will reduce pressure. Gentle flickering of the light is a sign of engine bearing wear - but not imminent doom. The thing will probably run for years like that. Worth making sure the idle speed isn't too slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 10W40 is standard for 12Js and onwards, and since they use the same oil pumps and essentially the same blocks as the 2.25s, I'd assume they use 10W40 too. 20W50 is for worn engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 20/50 was recommended by Rover for the 2.25 engines - both petrol and diesel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Cheers gents, it does run with plenty of power (for a 2a!) I wouldn't be surprised if the pressure relief valve was sticking on the pump. I don't think the bottom end or the main bearings are worn, it's only got 33k on the clock. Saying that it was a fire engine in a previous life, so it may have spent a fair amount of time idling! When I know more, I'll report back to bring closure. Cheers, jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.