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please help clutch slipping after new clutch kit fitted


willy3539

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Have you fit a new master or slave cylinder or pushrod?

I had a problem recently where I hadn't correctly adjusted the clutch master so the pushrod had 1-2mm clearance from its piston, this meant as the pushrod was still in contact with the piston it wouldn't operate the internal valving and allow the oil to flow back to the reservoir. It kept slight pressure on the release bearing and clutch forks and if giving it some lead foot it would slip badly.

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As above, the pressure when you release the clutch is not completely going back to the master, due to maladjustment, or I have seen the pushrods not seated properly in the slave cylinder and that causes the pressure not to be released completely.

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ok guys heres the story I should have added I changed the gearbox from a 1995 to a 1998 and used the push rod from the 1998 one I know its seated properly as I cable tied it to the fork so how do I do a adjustment on the clutch master cyclinder is there any threads on this

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I am not sure if there is a difference in the push rod's from 95 to 98. I cannot think that, but have been wrong many times, just have not done a swap like this myself.

Something I would do to see if it is a hydraulic concern is, open the clutch slave bleed nipple, the hydraulic fluid should not squirt out.

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from pedal adjustment being incorrect - but you say you haven't disturbed the m/cyl

I'd remove the slave from the bellhousing - don't disconnect the hydraulics and make sure you have

clearance , if the piston is pushed all the way in and is still pushing on the release arm it'll slip .

cheers

Steveb

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Steveb and Rangy have put you on the right trail, I recently converted my 300TDi to a manual, when I asked about the pushrod my mechanic just pointed to a box of them and said "help yourself" but wasnt sure which was the correct one as there were about 6 different lengths and this was after he had given me a V8 master cylinder to fit on the peddle box - but thats another story.

Okay the fix is easy, as steveb said there should be no pressure in the system on release of the peddle, if there is (tested at the bleed nipple) close the nipple and back off the two slave cylinder retaining bolts until there is clearance plus say 1/32", measure the gap between the slave cylinder and flywheel housing and with a slave cylinder gasket make up a spacer, fit the spacer and next time you change your clutch grind down your pushrod that same measurement and disgard the spacer, or mesure the one you have, deduct the spacer thickness and get one the correct length.

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BTW, if you have a helicoil kit, retap and replace the standard tappings for the two 6mm bolts with helicoils as they are stronger and those two 6mm bolts take a LOT of pressure, as indicated by the need to strengthen the clutch lever at the pivot point.

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