slihp Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 So im going to change the injector seals and copper disc next week. Anyone fabricated any use full tools for pulling them out. Ive seen the one on that is a plumers wrench taken apart used to lever them out but id rather try and avoid this if i can easily make a puller. any advice guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I've done them recently on a mates td5, I had a small heel bar and lightly prised them out. I doubt you will need a puller, just keep the injector square when taking out. Also if you have a 10P code engine check for any signs of cracking in the injector bores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slihp Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Oh dont say that. How do you check what engine code you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Divster Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I used a long Allen key, about 6mm iirc. Some of the injectors took a little more prising out than the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 The engine code is the start of the engine number, 10P early or 15P later. It's located on the turbo side under the exhaust behind the centrifugal oil filter housing. Why are you changing the seal? Diesel in oil, air in fuel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slihp Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Think its Diesel in oil. Should i change the Rocker Cover Gasket too, some say only if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Definitely check the head for cracks then if there is diesel in the oil, chances are its the seals but there is a possibility of it being cracked. 15P engines had a few revisions made due to a few failures in the design on the older 10P engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slihp Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 mines was one of the first TD5's so id think its a 10P engine.but ill check. If the crack are there are they obvious? or like hairline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 It'll be a hairline crack, look carefully and make sure your 100% sure it's ok before rebuilding or it could be costly in the long run. Could always bang some pictures on here if you spot anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slihp Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 yep wiil do. One last thing - when adjusting the injectors on re-assembly to quote "Rotate the engine until No 1 injector lobe on the rocker shaft is at full lift, if not sure go back and forth until your sure it's a max height, then tighten down the adjusting screw until you feel the injector plunger "bottom out". Then BACK it off 1 complete turn and whilst holding it in this position tighten the lock nut to 16NM or 12LBs ft. repeat for all five" once No 1 lobe is at full lift do you then set all 5 injectors from there or do you rotate the engine to move each injectors lobe to full lift to set each injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash.Witty Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I was told by a garage to just lift the rocker shaft out and they will be ok which it was and still is, just follow the manual if you want to adjust them. Also don't forget to bleed the system before trying to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 yep wiil do. One last thing - when adjusting the injectors on re-assembly to quote "Rotate the engine until No 1 injector lobe on the rocker shaft is at full lift, if not sure go back and forth until your sure it's a max height, then tighten down the adjusting screw until you feel the injector plunger "bottom out". Then BACK it off 1 complete turn and whilst holding it in this position tighten the lock nut to 16NM or 12LBs ft. repeat for all five" once No 1 lobe is at full lift do you then set all 5 injectors from there or do you rotate the engine to move each injectors lobe to full lift to set each injector. The front of the cam is marked, and there is a cast indicator in the head, if you line the two marks and read the number that you just aligned then you adjust that number, rotate engine till next line is aligned and so forth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slihp Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 AH so these is a more accurate step 6. Rotate engine clockwise until No 1 injector lobeis at full lift.7. Rotate rocker adjusting screw clockwise untilthe injector plunger is felt to bottom out.8. Rotate rocker adjusting screw anti-clockwiseone complete turn to give plunger the requiredbump clearance and tighten rocker armadjusting screw locknut to 16 Nm (12 lbf.ft) .9. Carry out above procedure for the remaining 4rocker arms.(Rave does not point out that for EACH cylinder you must rotate THAT injector rocker to full lift THEN adjust for bump clearance! So for item 6. above after you have adjusted No1, start again but change the "No 1" to No 2, then No3, then No4, then No 5, and you MUST turn the engine for each)10. After completion of rocker arm adjustment,slowly rotate engine clockwise 2 completeturns by hand to ensure that no injectors arebottoming out on their plungers. still to decide wheather to just lift the cam shaft straight out or adjust all but now i now both ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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