soakes94 Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I'm needing to change my rear passenger side inner hub seal as its leaking. Its a 1986 defender 90 County with a 300Tdi conversion. What parts do I need? I was thinking since I'm in there I might as well replace the bearing, is that a good approach or should I just replace the seal? Either way where is best to get the part/parts and what part/s number is best? My other question is any special tools? I know I will need a box spanner but will I need anything else? I've been thinking of how I get the seal in, it looks like he is using one of these would this work for me? I've found this video on youtube, is this the correct method? It all seems to sense to me. One thing I want to check is when I slide everything out is oil going to pour out? I can see a little came out but wasn't sure if he had emptied most of it before? Just that would be a horrible surprise!! I'm going to need to top the diff oil up as well since its been leaking so what oil is best? I've not done any fluid changes yet only had it a few months so don't know what's in there already so am I safer to empty it (if it hasn't already poured out all over my drive) and fill it up with all the same stuff? Any other advice would be great, I havent done anything like this before so any advice would be great!! It looks simple... will probably regret saying that mind you! Thanks S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I did a bushworkshop on changing brake discs elsewhere and also covered fitting a new seal in the back of the hub. see here. http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=92122&p=784058&hilit=dieseldogs+bushworkshop#p784058 Unless the bearings show signs of excessive wear then they can be left alone, oil lubed bearings are less prone to wear as the oil circulated to keep them cool and lubricated with fresh oil. Just a case of prising out the old seal with a suitable tool and knocking a new one in place and seating to correct depth. Unless you know the last time the oil was replaced then go for new oil, drain it out first and then do the seal, once all buttoned up again refill with EP90, nothing special required for these axles at all. Best of all is to get "ALL" potential spare parts in the stores as is always the way, you don't have it and you'll end up needing it!!! Wheel bearings, Timken only!! OEM corteco or better still genuine hub seals, and please buy a dozen or so hub nut locking washers "DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD ONES", bottle of locktite for the caliper bolts and gaskets for the drive flanges, be sure to run the bolts over a wire wheel or through a die to remove old thread lock. Just be very clean about your tools and work space and it is an easy enough job. If you are not replacing the wheel bearings it is even easier as you do not have to worry for setting the bearing races, just tighten the hub nut then lock it down with a new tab. Warning!!! Dff lock, hand brake and chock the front wheels before lifting the back wheels off the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Perfect thanks In terms of getting the new seal in without damaging it, what's the best way to go about that? Don't want to do all that work damage the seal and I'm back where I was before I started!! I have drums of the back of my defender so that probably makes it easier as there is no calliper (I think) For parts I have found these wheel bearings and then this kit with all the other parts A really stupid question, the kit is for one hub, where do the 2 bearings go, from the videos I've watched I've only seen 1 bearing? There is no noise from the bearings when driving so hoping to get away with just going the seal!! I will also get some extra lock washers S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Just do the seal if the bearings are alright. The front bearing will fall out as you pull the hub off. Catch it so it doesn't get dirt in it. The rear bearing will drop out when you knock the seal out. I use an old seal with the lip cut off as I don't have an old bearing trck that's been cut to do the job. Also I pack my bearings with grease before assembling the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Okay that's fine, are they both the same bearings? And do the parts I found look like they should do the job? Bearings are a just in-case! S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 The bearings alone are Timken parts they are the ones you want!!! I know they are being bought as precautionary parts but do not skimp on these parts!!! The other "kit" is cheaper and contains other parts, so most likely the bearings will not be of the same quality, = avoid like the plague!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Would this kit work? http://bit.ly/1kzX6ux All it's missing is grease I think. Am I right to think that? S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Yes. If your bearings are good, then you could keep the new ones as spares. Any GOOD grease will be fine. I add a desert spoon full of Wynns charge to my grease I use for bearings, makes them last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soakes94 Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Just found this how do I know if this will fit my defender? I will get the timken bearings but just use this kit for the other seals and bits and pieces. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Just found this how do I know if this will fit my defender? I will get the timken bearings but just use this kit for the other seals and bits and pieces. Cheers NO Yes it will fit. Still NO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 please, do not fit britpart to your hubs, bearing wise or seal wise. it will only cost you the expense of an early replacement bearing set AT BEST... at worst, you wont have a truck to replace the bearings on. please see attached an exploded diagram of a coiler axle FRONT hub, the part numbers may be different to what you need but the components there are fundimentally the same. this shows you there is a larger bearing that goes in behind the hub, and a smaller one that goes in the front. There is a specific pre load that you need to set your bearings too, there are many ways to set this, Even LR themselves have specified different methods of this. but perhaps the most simple one is this one: Taken from the 300TDi defender RAVE manual okay, yours isnt a 300TDi base model, it is earlier but it doesent make any difference. many poeple just do them up by feel, but you cant pass that experience on via the www so perhaps this is the safest way of doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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