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HELP needed!


rrr47

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My 1992 Range Rover gearbox went bang yesterday, I had been off-road earlier, in low range for a while, towing a trailer of about 750Kg and up a hill. The car then drove for a while, but when I went to cross a busy junction, there was a big bang, then a grinding noise and no drive. I tried all the gears on the auto box, tried low range and even tried to rev the engine to get the locking diff to cut in. But all that happened was a grinding noise when in gear. The car starts fine, you can select gears but with the grinding noise, neutral is still neutral, but there is no brake effect from park.

If the auto locking diff exploded, would that result in no drive?

Could the chain in the transfer box of snapped?

Any help would be much appreciated and thanks for taking the time to read this far.

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Hmm. Sorry, to hear that.

I am not really sure. Does sound like something has let go in either the auto box or the transfer box. It could well be that the chain has snapped. That would account for the fact park doesn't work. Or it could be something in the auto box itself.

The drive plate that connects the engine to the torque converter can break to, but I would expect park to still work then.

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I have today stripped the bottom of the transfer box while leaving the transmission attached, I removed both props, then the handbrake, then the bottom shaft from the rear of the transfer box, this has stripped it's teeth in the middle. I believe the bearing holding this shaft is worn out and may of added to the failure. I also removed the LSD at the front of the transfer box, I think this has ceased and may also of added to the problem. So I hope that with a new shaft, bearing and LSD, I will back on the road again.

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I have now checked the price of the parts, the "output shaft" is between £75.00 to £85.00, the bearing is about £25.00 but I may have to buy a transfer box bearing kit at £95.00, and the viscous LSD is £300.00!!!

I have found a second hand auto box, transfer box and torque converter all for £150.00 with shipping included.

Do I risk second hand parts? Or new? I cannot justify the cost of the new LSD.

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I'm no expert but I would have thought that if the chain had broken you'd get a thrashing noise.

Don't go for a used (what you refer to as a LSD) VCU. They are not known for longevity & you will have no idea of it's condition until installed & tested on your own RR - believe me I speak from experience!!

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What about the ordinary transfer box instead? I know it's no five minute job to fit, but S/H is usually OK, because it is much simpler. I'm not 100% on the prop shaft lengths, but I think mountings are the same. Maybe even the tail housing on the AUTO fits?

Like I say with these things, there are always loads of little bits and brackets that make these changes tedious, even if the big bits fit ! But my change from LT95 to ZFhp22 and LT230 means I'm back into common parts availability :)

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Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate people taking the time to respond.

A friend of mine gave me a lift to Bearmach in Caerphilly today, which is about 40 miles from my home. He checked the output shaft bearing and said it was ok, Bearmach agreed the bearing was fine but their replacement was £3.40 +vat, with OE one at £47.00, so I purchased the cheap one just in case I damaged it changing the shaft. Bearmach did a good deal on the shaft, their own again, at £65.00 +vat, plus oil and sealant, I spent £103.00. The old LSD or VCU has gone back on the car, I did check it the way Ashcroft say, I can just about turn a wheel with a single axle off the ground, but it's very stiff.

I have just finished putting the car back together, with a quick test drive, all seems well, fingers crossed. So this breakdown has cost me in total, with the recovery, about £170.00, and just a few days.

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