rrr47

At least this has nice wheels. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-2-DOOR-OFFROADER-TAX-EXEMPT-BREAKING-PARTS-/331593356483?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d348114c3

Thanks Red90 and HoggyN, I thought of using a chain link cut and bent open, then connected, bent back into shape and welded to make the chains with 'D' clamps to fix onto car. But I must admit, it seems a silly idea to make some.

Thanks everyone for input. The chain I have been considering is 6mm x 42mm, £25.00 for 10 metres. But I think I have worked something out totally incorrect. If we say the circumference chain on each wheel is 27 inches in diameter, it's circumference length is 84.78 inches, 8 of these, 2 for each wheel, that's 678.24 inches of chain, or about 56 foot! Then the tread pieces, about 10 inches in length, 8 per wheel, by 4 wheels, another 320 foot of chain! So 1000 foot of chain! Have I worked that out wrong???????????

I'm looking to make some snow chains and was wondering if any other members have advice to offer or suggestions. I will need 4 chains as my Range Rover has an auto locking central diff. I'm not sure of the best size chain to use or how to fix it together. Thanks for taking the time to look.

It's a Land Rover Jim, but not as we know it. http://www.gumtree.com/p/rover/range-rover-hybred-offroad-monster-4x4-truck-2.5td-auto/1122477168

I thought that Les but they only cover half the pad resulting in the pad pushing on the disc at an angle. Even with the pistons fully retracted these metal plates made the pad too wide, even too wide for the calliper, I had new discs as well by the way.

Changed the rear brake discs and pads other day with Britpart parts, on the back of the pads were these metal plates which made the pad too wide to fit the callipers. They only covered half the pad so I removed them. Questions are, are they important? Do they do any thing? Am I wrong to remove them? But as you can see I have glued them together to fashioned them into a keyring, (patent pending), which I may start selling if there is enough interest.

I have a Range Rover Classic 3.9 and I have fitted a manual switch to the fans, she does run hot in traffic and running around town. I have removed the fan cowling because in winter I take off the viscous fan, but even in the cold the fans occasionally have to be used. Mine's on lpg, don't know if that alters running temp.

Could you go down a size in screw with washers an add rivet nuts? There are also some special plastic nut/threaded piece that bites into the plastic as you tighten the screw. Here's an example. http://insailsandum.en.ec21.com/Threaded_Inserts_for_Plastics--6949698.html

I drove from Sheffield to South Wales in a 1.6 diesel Fiesta with a Alfa 155 bonnet on the roof, the bonnet was much wider than the car and almost as long. Got 65 mpg out of the little 80's Fiesta though.

The rebuild kits are cheap but I would go with new calipers, you don't know what you may find while stripping the old ones to refurbish.

Absolutely. Imagine having to strip it all down again to change that one part.

My Range Rover Classic speedo is electronic and has not worked for years, and years before I bought the car. I have changed everything, speedo, cable, tranducer, some resistor or something, and had Land Rover connect the car up to their computer, they said the speedo was not working but not why it was not working. (And, they wanted £120.00 to tell me that, an hours labour for a 3 min job. I ended up given £20.00 to the bosses chosen charity.) I think it's the management computer. My sat-nav has a good speedo though.

Have you tried E-mailing them?

Limited slip diff?

Looks to be for 110 and Wolf.

Did you bed the pads-in? Are the discs scored or wavy? A cheap solution is to remove the pads and file them flat and try to bed them in again.

Yes any parts you need you can have. I have taken all the parts which are easy to remove off, not sure what they all are but they are still in the garage. I have an air vent but with out the frame.

Do any members need aircon bits for their cars? I am having a sort out and will be taking the aircon bits I removed from my Classic to the dump soon, if any members want any part it's free please let me know.

Epic, shows how good a V8 is, was it auto?

Another must have toy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Land-Rover-Defender-130-TD5-Double-Cab/311363606052?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31102%26meid%3D1f223c6141d34c1c97418e8ec29986ad%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D311320604141

The worst I have had, (touch wood), is the alternator went on my Disco 200tdi with no warning light. I drove in the day to take a relative to hospital and then had to drive home in the dark. After bump starting the car in the car park, I had drive 25 miles home with no lights. It was fine on main roads with street lights, but the last 7 miles to home were unlit and I had to wait for another car to come along to follow their lights!

Was the negative the same? Is the Anderson connected live all the time? Mk 3 Cortina front indicators used to corrode very quickly due to the bulb being earthed through indicator metal frame. The electric running through the metal had the same effect as water/rust, something to do with the metal losing an electron atom, not sure. Perhaps this is what has happened to your connector if it's live all the time.

Looks fun!

Thanks for all the input, I found two 235/70 x 16 Disco steel wheels with brand new Michelin tyres. Then two 255/70 x 16 tyres the same make and pattern, one on a steel Disco wheel, one wheeless, again brand new. All were very cheap. Now I will either have to find two other 235s or 255s.