bodumatau Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Hello fellow landrovites I have a RR efi V8 in my 110 (twin downpipes) and I can't seem to get the push in joins to the Y piece to stay sealed, have now driven less than 1000km and for the third time they are leaking. Have tried good old grey gun gum with standard pipe clamps, then when that leakd I used the White exhaust paste with 75mm wide "joiner" clamps, worked fine while temp stayed normal but took my landy out for a short run a few days ago and the minis 10 degrees was just too much on startup and exhaust is leaking again . I am now seriously considering welding the pipes in situ and then dropping the cross member if I need to take them out again, anyone have a better fix? Rgds Heiko Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 No exhaust expert (backyard mechanic, one landrover, one everyday car), but suspect that you're suffering for pipework expansion.... As the exhaust pipe gets hot it will expand linearly (and radially), and there is a tendency for the pipes to push away from each other, given it's got cast iron manifolds, they will expand but not as quickly as they require a lot more energy (heat + time) The fix is to use a bit of oxy acetylene to put a bit what could be termed cold draw on the pipelines, basically heating them up and bending them slightly the opposite way to their movement when they are heated which is probably toward the front of the vehicle, meaning the leak is occuring on the back side of of the exhaust towards the bulkhead, or on the inside edge towards the engine block given the "Y" piece will naturally want to try to force the pipes outwards when heated. The other thing you can do is to make sure that the exhaust is not over restrained, so that when the pipelines expand they can move backwards as well (not sure what you've done with the vehicle but it may be that one of the other slip joints has also moved. I'm not sure how you would do it on the vehicle, but it may be a case of getting under the vehicle and heating the inside edge of the exhaust (same plane as where the leak is occurring) until it's cherry red, and that may apply some cold draw when it cools down, or heating the whole diameter of the exhaust, and then applying some water to the inside edge, short blast, not very much, keep out of the way of the steam, and it may induce some cold draw. I'd wait until someone else comes along with some advice as they may have another trick to it without removing the the the Y-piece. If you can remove the whole Y-piece, then it's a case of heating the inside edge cherry red and trying to slightly bend the pipe in that plane (not kink the pipe), slight bend, Another way if you could get the y-piece off is to use I think the word is a "dolly", basically a long length of tube of similar diameter to the inside of the Y-piece of the exhaust pipe, and try to bend the pipeline ever so slightly in the same plane as the leak is occurring again which puts some cold draw on the assembly, again careful not to kink the pipeline, may benefit from doing it when it's in the engine bay only to one side of the Y-piece whilst the other is still bolted to the unleaking manifold, the only thing is you'll need to remove the leaking manifold to get a long length of tube in the pipe Where are you? Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 What an outstanding reply. Top drawer sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Hey rob, thanks for the answer, makes sense, methinks the rigidity of the whole system is my first problem, I have the old "hanging bolt" with Land Rover pipe clamp system and it is really stiff once all bolted up, not anywhere nearly as swingy as a td5 for example. It is often (as you so correctly point out) not the primary problem but the secondary affects that cause the primary problem to keep coming up. I have wrapped also wrapped my downpipes and Y junction with exhaust tape to keep heat off my starter, gearbox and trf case, this seems to work very well but I think the downside is that much greater heat differences will occur as the pipes stay hot inside their wrapping. I need to pull my Y junction soon anyway to weld in a lambda sensor ( bought myself a mega squirt system from Hybrid from Hell) So that will give me the opportunity to have all the bits in my hand and try solve the problem. Rob, I am based in the south of Germany in a village called Heidenheim, sadly very far away from the landy centre of the world Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I've got flexible stainless tube from the gearbox to the silencer on the race truck so the front section can please itself. Maybe that wouldn't quite do it, but stainless flex in one of the downpipes would. (while you're in there with the welder). I also have it on the S1 from the manifold down into the wing, to stop it eating gaskets. And we have the bellows type on the Ford focus, so I'm not the only believer in letting it hang free in the wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Yup sorry totally forgot about a flexible connection as that can cover a multitude of sins and allow for slight misalignment I say slight as too much stress and over time with general engine vibration plus acceleration and deceleration and it may give up the ghost Your exhaust wrap may not be helping as pointed out as there was a heat sheild on mine when I had the cast iron headers above the starter motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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