110CSWDEFENDER Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 Hi all. My 1994 110 Tdi has started dribbling fuel from the tank. It appears to be coming from the bottom of the tank, there is no evidence of leakage from the filler pipe or anywhere towards the top, and it leaks even when the tank is near empty. It is the tank with a separate supporting tray, I guess it has rusted around the bulge at the bottom of the tank. I am considering supporting the tank on axle stands and removing the tray to take a look, or should I just bite the bullet and get a new tank ?. Is fitting a new tank a one-man job ?. Thanks.. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 My 1995 300Tdi 90 rusted through its fuel tank 2 years ago, so i suspect the tin worm has got urs.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Watty Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 If it looks lioke the tanks leaking then change it - it is a one man job but a bit fiddly to get some of teh bolts out from the front of the tank - I would suggest you get soem duck oil of wd40 on a day or so before you start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landi41 Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 If it looks lioke the tanks leaking then change it - it is a one man job but a bit fiddly to get some of teh bolts out from the front of the tank - I would suggest you get soem duck oil of wd40 on a day or so before you start It is a one man job but it would be usefull to have a couple of extra arms......... In my opinion the 110 gas tank is a poor design (i have repaired one and replaced one) anyway where the "saddle" has that little bulgy area at the bottom, it allows water to collect in there between the saddle and the tank......... thereby rusting the tank............. To correct this on my latestest installation i drilled four 1/4 " holes in the bulge to allow water out.......... also where the fuel pump is installed at the top there is a depression that allows water and debris to collect over time and this can corrode the electrical wires and /or rust out the fuel pipes.......... To correct this after installing a new pump in the new tank i filled this area almost level with mastic.......... Hope this helps............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 I weep every time I have to fill it up!! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110CSWDEFENDER Posted September 13, 2005 Author Share Posted September 13, 2005 Thank you all. Headhunter, I know just what you mean, but I have found an an amazing fuel economy device... My wife's 11-year-old 1.8 diesel Fiesta, which I now use for all of my 'running around'... It does exactly twice as many miles to the gallon (60) as my 110, and it keeps the mileage off the 110. I think the fuel saving probably covers all of the Fiesta's running costs. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 It sounds like you have corrosion between the fuel tank and the protection plate. You have three optins fixing it. The first is to replace the tank as you suggested - this will be the most expensive option and your tank will most likely corrode again in due time. The second option is to repair it yourself. I have done this by taking the tank off, then drill the soptwelds where the protection plate is fixed to the tank thus removing it. Clean the tank and the plate and then apply a sealant that is fuel resistant. I used a sealent that is used on roads to seal between bridges and the tar section of the road, it was a twin pack product that still stay flexable after curing. I was told this product is the same as what they use for sealing aircraft fuel tanks on the riveted joints. It is similar to silicon sealant but obviosly it can be submersed in fuel without any ill effects on the product. You must make sure that the amount of sealant you apply is more than the cavity between the two plates. Then refit the protection plate and bolt it using 6mm bolts to the tank. My repair lasted for four years before a sold it and it never leaked again. The third option would be to take your tank to someone who would be prepared to seal weld the protection plate to the tank. I hope this help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted September 15, 2005 Share Posted September 15, 2005 I have read frequently on LR Forums where POR 15 is a very successful & permanent repair method, & seems to be available from 'Paint Supplies of SA' at West Lakes. Ph. 8347 7171 http://www.paintsupplies.com.au/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110CSWDEFENDER Posted September 15, 2005 Author Share Posted September 15, 2005 Thanks everyone. I like the idea of drain holes in the tray's bulge, but wasn't keen on drilling them with the tank in place !. Wally, where are the spotwelds ?. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wally Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 They sit on the seam where the two halfs of the tank has been joined, thus deviding the tank into a upper and lower half. There are only four or five spots either side. On the back(rear) end and the same amout on the front end. I have only used four of these to bolt the potection plate back namely two in front and two in the back (back being closest to the rear bumper and front closest to the rear diff). The protection plate once removed looks like a horisontally streatched u with two small lips on either end which lines up with the seam on the tank. Once you have removed the tank you will see what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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