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TD4 timing chain replacement - anyone ever done one?


FridgeFreezer

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Well the FL is up to 265k now and has been running imperfectly for some time - I've looked at all the usual suspects, swapped a fair few bits, no faults on the OBD scanner so I'm beginning to think perhaps the timing chain & tensioners are slack. Which wouldn't be a huge surprise at this mileage...

However, my copy of RAVE doesn't even show how to replace the chain, I can't see much online about it (general opinion seems to be the M47 lump is bulletproof and that's that) so I'm curious if anyone's ever done one, or has the instructions on what to do, which parts are needed, etc. etc.?

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Just found some info hiding in the RAVE manual under "Gasket - timing gear cover" (p250 for those playing at home) which shows that you basically have to dismantle the entire engine (head off, injectors out, etc. etc.) to even get to the tensioners & lower chain.

I guess no-one would ever bother doing one, more likely to scrap the car or swap the engine rather than put the hours in on that job! :o

Puts the cat amongst the pigeons as I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it that being the case.

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Bowie - I suspect no freelander (or BMW, or Rover 75) has ever lasted long enough for it to actually be an issue. Everything I've read says they basically never die, the reason for looking at the chain was that it's pretty much the last thing left and there's a suggestion that non-specific rough running is a symptom of a slack chain (poor timing of fuel pump & cams presumably the result).

Due to accumulating cheap spares I've already changed the MAF, injectors, checked all the hoses etc., turbo actuator, scanned for faults, you name it. There's no specific fault, just a judder on acceleration and a bit of a lack of power, but it just keeps trucking on, doing miles and passing MOT's so I'm loathe to ditch it.

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Vauxhall Corsa is the same. You have to remove the head just because of a couple of locating dowels and everything attached to the timing cover has to come off or at least disconnected and moved out of the way. Replacing the chain itself isn't particularly more difficult than a belt, but takes a lot more time to get at. Some vehicles require the removal of the sump as well, such as BMW 3 series.

 

 

Les.

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Just had a quick look on autodata. 2 timing chains, 4 slippers/guides, and the tensioner itself, plus gaskets and replacement cam and crank bolts, so a kit to do the job properly. Also requires removal of head and sump to do the whole job. In my experience - replacement of the lower chain is rarely necessary, as it's a short chain from the crank to the injector pump and the tensioner is on it. It may be possible to replace just the upper chain, but it's behind the lower chain. It then depends if there's enough room to remove the sprocket and then upper chain only.

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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Look for something different to blame it on? :)

 

I suppose a question of do they ever wear is not an easy answer to find online? Is there a wear assessment section in Rave?

There's no replacement interval as there is with belts, so the need to replace it is when you tend to have do it. Some cars are more prone to chain replacement than others, but it's mostly down to high mileage, poor servicing, etc, that makes them stretch beyond the tensioners limits. A worn chain will have slack in it, as the tensioner has either reached it's limits, or other reasons. So if you have slack in the chain, then timing will be affected. Chains should always be replaced as a kit in my opinion, as every thing tends to wear - stretched chain, tensioner failure/beyond limits, slipper/guides worn.

 

 

Les

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It's entirely possible it's just the tensioner block has worn out and there's no adjustment left. That plus a bit of chain slack wouldn't help.

Full history (of my ownership) is here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/62940-new-runabout-gone-to-the-dark-side/

 

I've kept the thing serviced at regular intervals but obviously can't vouch for the 1st 100k of its life.

If this was an easier or cheaper fix I'd just do it as the FL has been astoundingly practical and hard to beat.

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