Help
Some parts of this job are relatively easy, and a few are swines. I wouldn't say this is a DIY job, as welding/fabricating is needed as well as a reasonable ability to use basic tools. The following is how I did the job - there are in a few cases more than one way to do it. Actually putting the engine in the motor is very quick, making what modifications that are needed drags the job right out. Like I said, it is worth it though. If you are able to do the work yourself, then once you have everything you need, allow a week to do it. Things can and will go wrong, it still takes me three days to do this and I've done it a few times now.
If you are going to follow these instructions to the letter, then you will need:-
A complete Discovery 200TDi engine complete with PAS pump, alternator, fuel filter, and fuel pipes intact.
Remove the flywheel and then replace the TDi flywheel housing with the TD one. All the studs will then line up with the bell housing.
Best to replace the crank rear seal while the flywheel is off. It's wise to 'glue' the seal in with stud lock or similar. It has been known for this seal to work it's way out.
TD5 downpipe (about £30)
Service parts, including timing gear and crank oil seals
Borg & Beck clutch kit, plus clutch operating arm.
Clutch slave cylinder (TD type).
While the engine is out, clean it and do any work necessary. It sits right back when fitted in the vehicle, but not particularly difficult to work on.
I understand that the original viscous fan can't be used unless you trim the blades back because they clout the steering box. We had a leccy fan anyway, so I don't know for sure if this is the case.
Anyway, loads of pictures with descriptions. If you're not sure about anything, then ask.
This is what you need to get! complete as much as possible, this makes it so much easier than trying to alter brackets and make up pipework.
Even though the history of the clutch is known, the amount of work involved in replacing it makes the additional cost worthwhile.
Nice new Borg & Beck unit.
The usual gunky mess inside the timing cover.
The usual culprit is the crank seal, although there are a couple of other places that oil can get into the timing case from
Clean it up, replace all the timing gear and both crank oil seals. Do it properly and then forget it for a long while. If the timing belt or one of it's components fails it won't wreck the engine, but it's damned inconvenient.
The engine mountings and chassis rubbers from the TD engine will bolt straight onto the TDi block.
There you go, the easy bit is over. Looks great, but it gets complicated now!
Now the hard bit - the exhaust downpipe. First time it took me about 11 hours to do, now it's down to about 3. The underslung Turbo on the TDi engine means you have little room to work in, but it is possible with a lot of thought and patience. This is where a reasonable skill at welding is needed. You need to remove the short downpipe that's held to the turbo body by three nuts. Also remove the three studs - they are too long and three M10 x 20mm bolts have to be used.
Materials needed are the old TD downpipe and a TD5 downpipe. The flange on the TD5 downpipe is the same hole pattern as the turbo downpipe, and this flange is what the downpip[e is based on.
So, cut the flage off, leaving a 10mm lip to weld to. You need to create a 90dg + bend in a 110mm gap with a pipe that is 65mm O/D. Repeatedly fitting and then removing the work as you go is a pain, but getting it wrong will drive you mad.
Use a 1mm cutting blade in an angle grinder or careful use of a hacksaw.
Initial 'bend'
And again. You need to do several of these to finish the job.
Spot welds first until you're confident the pipe shape is right.
Top bend complete, but still only spot welded. You have little room to fit the pipe, so a lot af patience here.
The full weld won't be done until the pipe is finished and trial fitted.
This is it almost finished. The end has to connect to the rest of the TD system, so I'll use the flared end and flange off the old pipe to do this.
The finished article. I test fitted it, then seam welded and cleaned. Looks good and this is the first one I ever made.
The fabricated downpipe now fitted to the rest of the TD exhaust. Heat sheild is the same and in the same place - no ther mods apart from moving the clutch pipe towards the inner wing.
Things are pretty tight. 10mm on one side and 15mm on the other.
View from the top. I used M10x20mm socket head bolts. Doing two of them up is very fiddly.
Ok, that's the exhaust finished, now the radiator/intercooler.
The TDi Radiator/intercooler frame is a bit too high by 28mm, so it has to be lowered. As there are only really two places that this can be done, I chose what I thought was the easiest, at that was the two locating brackets that are actually on the front crossmember. There are two rubber mounts that sit in the top of these, so I removed the top bit with the hole in, reduced the height of the bracket by 28mm, and then welded the hole back on again. There are also two small lugs either side of the radiator frame that have to be completely removed.
The hole removed.
Cut the bracket down by 28mm. This is where those skinny cutting blades are appreciated.
Then the hole welded back on. Make sure the hole goes back in line with where it was before. Too far forward and the front panel doesn't fit.
You can buy Disco top radiator mountings and make the small effort needed to fit them, or you can alter the TD ones and then keep the bonnet prop bracket as it was before the conversion.
Looks a bit bodged now, bit works ok.
Other side looks a little better.
The radiator fitted, looks good.
The pipework for the cold side of the turbo varies on where you want to put the air filter, what air filter you use, if you have a snorkel, and what side you fit it. Generally the air filter can be made to fit tight into the corner on the passenger side in the corner of the intercooler. The concertina pipe that was on the TD engine is a great help, and two or three of them makes the job a lot easier. The cold side of the turbo is very close to the inner wing. and I recommend cutting away the inner wing to make more room for a 90dg rubber elbow to be used.
Other stuff:-
Wiring is the same and the same colours and will all reach to where it needs to go. The alternator on the TD engine has a lucas plug on it, but the disco one is one 6mm and one 5mm 'eye'. You can buy these and the the correct crimping tool to attach them. The wires to the alternator are too long, so cut them back. Don't forget to thread it along the side of the block, through the clips that are under the glow plugs, then through the gap behind the water pump. Messy wiring and fuel pipes are unnecessary and ruin what is otherwise a good job.
The Disco fuel filter has to be used (one less pipe). Threads are the same etc etc. however, the two that go to the filter are a bit too short by around 100mm, so buy 8mm I/D fuel pipe and 4xjubilee clips of the right size. and lengthen the pipes in a convenient place.
Use the TD oil cooler pipes (the disco ones are too short) However, the two threaded pieces in the radiator are not compatible, so unscrew the ones out of the TD rad and put them in place of the ones that are in the Disco one.
PAS pipes. The low pressure one is ok and can be used as is, but the pressure side is a different story.
Connection to the back of the pump is different, so you need to get the pipe altered by a hydraulics place such as Pirtek. This pipe is also too short and needs to be lengthened by 300mm. The two pipes will then route the way they are supposed to and will fit in the brackets on the rear face of the front crossmember.
Radiator hoses were made from using bits from both engines and with a bit of thought a tidy job can be achieved.
There you go - easy innit
Take your time and think before doing anything. The conversion is definitely worth it.
Les.
. Done a fair bit of tracked milage but nothing else. 
