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defender 3.5 on carbs not running very well


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my 1990 3.5 v8 isnt sounding very responsive as it should it as been stood for a while so needed a new fuel pump in the tank

and new petrol i have also cleaned both the carbs out it starts and runs but isnt as responsive as it should be any ideas on my next mission to make it sound better

thanks in advance

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IT could be the Dizzy. I had problems for a while which sounded like fuel but ended up being bent advance retard springs. If you have the 35DM8 dizzy you can just see them through the base plate. Be very careful if you remove the rotor cap as pulling it up can bring the spindle with it and bend/dislodge the springs - which was my problem.

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if you're in the dizzy, make sure both the centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms are free.

If you grab the rotor-arm you should be able to twist it one way against obvious spring-pressure and it should then return smoothly to its rest poosition when you stop twisting.

If you detach the vacuum-pipe from the carb and suck on it you should see things moving in the distributor base-plate - again this should be free and return to its rest position with an obvious 'click' when you release the suction.

If either of these are not working smoothly your ignition will be retarded significantly at any speed above idle - causing dull response, excess fuel consumption, and overheating (potentially to the point where the exhaust-manifolds will glow a dull red).

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If it's just not performing as it should and isn't making violent shudders or misfires, then my betting it fuel.

That said, the usual of new:

-arm

-cap

-leads

-plugs

Never does anything wrong to help illuminate the issue.

Is it on SU's or Strombergs? If the latter then my betting is they need a strip down and rebuild and the diaphragm replacing. I've seen it loads of times with these where they run for **** and people simply won't replace the split worn out rubber diaphragm in the Stromberg carb.

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All good advice but I'd be heading straight to those carb diaphragms first. They're cheap and easy to change, so nothing scary there.

If the engine runs very smoothly but lacks power, it could well be your distributor not advancing. You should be able to grab the rotor and twist it a few degrees, with the springs pulling it back smoothly. If not, you'll have to delve further. The vacuum advance is separate to the weight system and is a petrol saving measure, the operation of which you can't really feel while you're driving. If it's sticking, it will save you money to find out why!

I have had a distributor with that plastic cover but can't remember what held it in place, sorry. Someone else is bound to help...

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I have removed the plastic cover on my distributor. It has small cross point screws retaining it. It does say "Do Not Remove" but perhaps that is to avoid people fiddling about. This advance mechanism advice will be applied to my V8 (on SUs) later. Thank you.

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