Betsy Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Hi, first post on here, fresh from the LRO forum. I have a 1966 series 2a soft top 109, known as Betsy. I have just fitted para's, and also polybushed the chassis, and fitted 1 ton extended spring hangars. This has raised the vehicle considerably and she looks really good. However, the front diff is angled back because of the long shackles. This along with the lift that the parabolics give means that the front prop is fouling in the yokes. I have 3 choices. 1. Get an expensive high angle prop. 2. Put standard spring hangars on 3. Fit some wedges to level the diff. I like the lift, so would not really want to go back to standard shackles. A new prop is probably the best engineered solution. The wedges could be ok, but where can I get them from? Should I have check straps on the rear axle with these springs and shocks (ES3000's). The box for the shocks says they have internal stops to prevent over extending. opinions please, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 easiest way is to fit correction wedges, available from explorer uk also lose the checkstraps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 Thanks Tonk for the quick reply. I have found the Explorer UK website, and will give them a call asap! The vehicle has no checkstraps, so I guess thats ok then. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Same problem on mine, 109FFR extended shackle chassis, military/1Ton shackles, TIConsole Parabolics, bottomed and topped out front propshaft! Personally I resorted to getting the Prop Shop to make me a wide angle, 4" slip standard length prop which has solved all my problems as the articulation from fully compressed, to fully extended was more than the standard 2" travel of the standard prop. Worth doing some checks with the prop removed to determine if this is the same issues for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted April 16, 2007 Author Share Posted April 16, 2007 Ok, I will check that out. My chassis does not have the extended front hangers, so the axle diff is angled back slightly by the extended rears shackles. I have some 6 degree shims on the way, so will fit them and measure things again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 yup, way to go, without the extended chassis mounts you may just get away with not needing a long slip-joint prop, but worth a check just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Dont like the wedges cos the U bolts were forever coming loose and there is nothing to locate the axle tube. I've got an old pair kicking round somewhere. I took the axle off and modified the srping seats to correc the caster that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 If you keep it on the road, a set of 4 degree wedges should do you right and set you back about 20 quid. It will settle a bit over the coming weeks. In fact, give a good bump around a field and then re-tighten the ubolts for good measure. If you intend to offroad it, you need new prop shafts or you will either pop a ujoint or overextend the slip joint - probably at the rear. Propshaft Clinic These chaps are great. Land Rover fans and very knowledgable. Measure your prop lengths flange to flange, get a good 8" slip joint on the rear and as much as you can on the front, wide angle yolks and as for a narrow diamete front to avoid binding on the cross member (saves you scalloping it). They are very reasonable price wise and the quality is excellent. You will not regret the doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted April 16, 2007 Share Posted April 16, 2007 Just found a good picture of mine with the 2" slip joint standard prop on the front: I aint done another check yet (as they've built on that area now the buggers), but when I got under there to measure up this was when I found out it had topped out and that the prop was limiting the droop on my axle for the drivers side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 I did a few checks and measurement last night. I made up some temporary 6mm spacers and lifted the pinion nose of the front diff. With it jacked up under the axle (springs compressed to normal) there was no binding and the slider was about 1/2 inch further extended than on normal springs. I then jacked her under the chassis and let the front axle hang, and it was near the limit, about 1/4 inch of extension left. I did the same on the rear and all was fine, except that at full extension (axle hanging) the rear prop was just touching the bottom of the hole through the cross member. I then cross-axled it with some ramps, and repeated the measurement. It seems that unless I actually take off, there should not be an issue, but it is close. I will get a quote for some new props, and see how it goes. I do want it right, as the vehicle is going to Morocco in October, so don't want to loose a prop in the desert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Why you need new prop shafts.... That photo always bums out the coiler types .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Nice looking Land Rover What specific colour is it? I'm currently deciding on a colour for mine and yours looks really nice. The very light green they used to use on Land Rovers is nice too (Pastel Green I think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Sorry, forgot to ask: where did you buy the extended spring hangers? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Betsy Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 I got the whole spring kit from CP Components. Included springs, extended shackles, ES3000 shocks, U bolts, Nuts, Washers and a full Polybush set for the chassis. What they don't tell you is that you will need extended brake pipes if yours are the early type that screw direct into the wheel cylinder, and you will need a set of 2 degree shims for the front axle to sit on, and maybe some for the rear. The jury's out on my propshafts at the moment, they are not binding at all, but there is a small amount of vibration at speeds over 50mph. When the budget allows, I think I will go and see a prop specialists and get an expert opinion. Thanks for the comments, she is a real beauty. The colour is Olive Drab, and is a standard paint available from the military surplus outlets. Mine is faded, but it looks better that way. I fully rebuilt her 4 years ago, onto a new galved chassis, overhauled the engine, gearbox, axles. But I decided to leave the paintwork as is, because I reckon it would take her character away to repaint her! Kind of like yer granny going in for a boob job and a face lift, wouldn't seem quite right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Thanks for the details . I agree about leaving the car original. My Series IIa is a bit like that, although has some pretty large dents, so I may take the worst ones out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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