Warn Winch Problem

[jbergholm]

My winch, don't know what model it is (electric Warn maybe M6000 or M8000 or similar) is dead. I had it off the bumber a while ago and when I refitted it, it didn't want to work. I tried a prosedure I read about to find out if the engine is working or not. It goes like this:

1. Put the winch in freespool. (This I failed to do.)

2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).

3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.

4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.

5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.

As I did this, the engine came to life for about 2 seconds. Then I realised the winch wasn't in freespool so I stopped it and turned the gearselector and then tried again. Nothing. Since then I haven't been able to get it to work again. Any ideas what the problem can be?

/Johan

[LR90]

Earth problem? Run a lead form battery negative terminal to a winch mounting bolt and try again.

[simonr]

First I would check your earth connection by running the other lump lead from battery -ve to the body of the motor.

Next check the windings. Use a multi-meter set to a resistance range (you could use a battery & bulb type continuity tester).

1. Test between A and Ground - there should be a good connection (a few ohms at most)

2. Test between F1 and F2 - there should be a good connection (a few ohms at most)

3. Test Between F1 and A - There should be no connection.

If Test 1 fails - check the motor brushes. If Brushes OK, have a look at the armature (the bit which spins in the middle of the motor) and look to see if either the copper wire looks burned / brown / black or if one of the copper wires has become dislodged (centrifuged out of place) and shorted on something else. In either case you are probably looking at a new armature.

If Test 2 fails, there is a problem with the field windings. These will either have burned out, or more likely there will be a wire which connects to either F1 or F2 on the inside of the motor which has become detached. Re-attach and it will be fixed.

If Test 3 fails, it is most likely that one of the insulating washers which prevent F1 or F2 touching the motor body (ground) has become damaged or somebody has replaced one with a regular washer which is shorting to the body. Failing that, check the insulation on the field windings - it may be damaged.

Hope this helps!

Si

[jbergholm]

Thanks for the advice Simon & LR90. Initially I got all sorts of readings on the multi-meter but now I have the following results:

A to Ground: 1-2 Ohm when it works. I think this is where the problem is. The cable to A is detached on the inside.

F1 to F2: Around 0,5 Ohm which is the same as I get when I just put the my messuring devices together. Is this a normal reading? Could I have another problem here?

F1/F2 to A: 5 MOhm which is a lot so I guess it's like no connection, or?

[LR90]

F1/F2 to A: 5 MOhm which is a lot so I guess it's like no connection, or?

Sounds correct. This connection is made be the selenoids so should be open otherwise.

Are you sorted now?

[jbergholm]

Are you sorted now?

I haven't had the time yet. I'll post my progress here. Thanks for the help.

[robhybrid]

I had a winch about a year ago that had been standing for a long time and the brushes had become stuck in the brush holders due to rust.

I removed the brushes, cleaned the brush holders and re fited the brushes and things went much more motor like.

I have also had problems with connections on solenoids and solenoid failures but you can quite quickly eliminate them whilst fault finding by connecting direct to the motor with jump leads.

neg to motor chassis,

pos to either f1 or f2,

left over 2 terminals joined together (old spanner, strip of steel)

changing pos from f1 or f2 and your link will change direction.

[jbergholm]

Problem sorted. It was the cable to A that had become detached. To clean all the connections from rust also helped.

[Mark Adams]

Hi,

I also have a problem with a winch, when the control is operated a loud click is heard (I guess from the solenoid) but no movement from the winch. I have tried the tests for operating the motor independantly from the solenoid and I still have no movement.

I have now also tried the resistance tests and all the test give the reading as specified, the only strange on is test 3 which gives Open circuit with the probes one way but closed circuit when I reverse the polarity of the probes (almosts like a diode is between A and F1 or F2) Is this right?

Any idea what could be wrong?

Mark.