billybob Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 I am planning a move to the Czech Republic for a year and will not be shipping the 110, so I need to properly store it. I have read various websites that offer tips on long term storage of a car. I'm looking for some tips from other Land Rover owners that have stored a Tdi Defender for a long time with success (meaning least amount of head ache when you return and start it up and drive it again). I probably won't be able to get someone to start it up and drive it occasionally, so I'm looking at long term unattended storage... I've heard it is best to change out all the fluids (diffs, t-case, trans, engine oil and filter). Block off the air intake and exhaust tailpipe. etc., etc. Can anyone offer up some advice? Anyone do this and have some good tips, things to watch out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 The main thing is outside or inside? If outside then there is plenty that can be done to make life better for the car. Most of the things the websites recommend. If it's in a dry garage for example I'd just put it on stands to stop the tyres getting flat spots, then be done with it. I wouldn't bother with the fluids, assuming they're all present and correct, and don't have any water mixed in with them, there won't be any issues with internal corrosion damage of components. When bringing it out of storage I'd give it a once over, especially things like brakes etc, but a year isn't very long for a Land Rover. My Series III sat for 10 years on a drive and the engine still started (once I'd freed off the points...)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 I planned to keep it inside a garage rather than outside. I live in Seattle, Washington USA which I hear the weather here is similar to that of the UK with a lot of rain. It rains here 9-10 months out of the year and is moist most of the time. The multitude of websites mostly say the same thing, some say things others don't like: One site says to wedge the clutch pedal down with a wooden plank to make sure the clutch doesn't rust/seize to the flywheel. Another site says to slacken the engine belts (Air Con, Alternator belts). Other than the two examples above, most sites say to go as far as to change out the antifreeze coolant, clutch and brake fluids, as well as to re-pack the wheel bearings. So I want to do it right, but I don't want to over do it either just adding expense, unless it is necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inaine Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 yes i'd do all the above please waxoil the chassis, bulkhead and b pillars etc. jack the car off the ground, pump the tyres up hard, disconnect the battery or leave it on trickle charge. get some dehumidifying crystals etc to stop the mildew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 What condition is the Defender currently in? Are we talking about a concourse condition show car, an old work horse showing it's age, or somewhere in between? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 It's in really great condition. It's a 1993, but was restored in 2006 before I bought it. So it's basically like a 2006 spec Td5 with two exceptions: has a 300Tdi and a full Safety Devices cage. Has 20k miles on it. Which brings up another question: Should I have the timing belt changed before storage or after? It's on the same belt since I bought it back in 2007. Or am I over-thinking things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 if it were me, i would remove the auxiliary belt, and store it with most of the weight off the wheels, ie, on axle stands maybe.... i wouldn;t worry too much about anything else, if you wedge the clutch pedal down, then it means the hydraulics are under constant pressure for a yr, which i woldn;lt think was good..... on return, i would then change the oil asap, coolant, probably the brake and clutch fluid.... and also get a bew cam belt fitted asap..... oh, and clearly store it with the battgery disconnected, or even removed..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickHodgson Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 I am pretty sure that LRs own advice is to pump up the tyres to about 60psi and disconect the battery. There is actually an official "Service Bullitin" somewhere. Lots of cars stand for at least a year before they are sold. In a garage is even better. Just spray some WD40 on the bits of engine, chassis and body that probably already have some rust spots on them. Cheers Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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