NickHodgson

Would a loose injector or a failed injector seat washer not give these symptoms? For Euro10k I might expect a compression test or some form of further diagnosis....

Some pictures of what you changed or even the part numbers would help to think about what has gone wrong. The 2006 axle has a spacer between the bearings - did you refit the spacer? What quality of bearings did you use?

Hi, I had similar symptoms of water loss through the header tank. We changed the cap (4 times), the thermostat and the EGR cooler. I eventually changed the head gasket after a failed block test. I really had to work the engine to get it to fail the block test so obvioulsy a small leak on gasket. 8,000kms since changing the gasket there is no further leak. The gasket did show some signs of water passing into the front of no.1 piston. Cheers Nick

I am pretty sure that LRs own advice is to pump up the tyres to about 60psi and disconect the battery. There is actually an official "Service Bullitin" somewhere. Lots of cars stand for at least a year before they are sold. In a garage is even better. Just spray some WD40 on the bits of engine, chassis and body that probably already have some rust spots on them. Cheers Nick

For what its worth... As where I am MTF94 is not available I use a Dextron III with good results. I have also tried Castrol VMX which I think is a 75w90 GL4 and my gearchange (1to2 when cold) was worse then the Dextron III. I have also now tried Redline MTL and would again say that the gearchange with the Dextrol III was still better. I do change the oils in the main box at 20-30k kms.

Headgasket or corroded oil cooler/radiator?

Hi By not a cheap one do you mean one with Dayco stamped on the tensioner. If it is a real Dayco tensioner then I expect you problem is the belt that is squeaking.

If after a long run on a hot day the transfer box is too hot to hold your hand on I would consider that normal.

try IGM500011 or get a reverse light switch and change the connector

The real solution is to check the oil pressure with an external oil pressure gauge. In my experience (in africa where conditions are harsh) the oil pressure switches have given me a lot or trouble (even LR genuine switches). I have replaced lots for similar problems as the one you suggest. The last one came on after a deep river crossing in the middle of a pride of lions on the other bank. I would check the pressure and if ok fit a new genuine switch. As I am sure people have previously mentioned a flicking oil pressure light at low revs and warm is a sign if excessive wear in crankshaft bearings (ie engine is worn out). So make sure you check the pressure when the oil is warm. Cheers Nick

It is important to remember that even with a specialist the same list of checks still applies. Cheers Nick

I thought gaskets were only for early boxes and later ones used good quality silicone. Yours looks to have silicone.

Did the vents used to work and now they have rusted up? Remember that on the TD5 post 2002 ones you have to pull out the handle before you can move it down to open the vent.

If your trailer is pulling the back of the 90 down then the trailer may not be loaded correctly. The load on the hitch should be no more then 150kg. Standard springs and genuine shocks should be fine. Genuine shocks are not as expensive as people fear!! 15 quid a pair on ebay from John Craddock.

With respect to the 130s you posted the links to....I suggest you need to start driving some of these vehicles to determine if you want a 110/130. The 130s with the box bodies are heavy and I guess the caravan body you suggest will also be heavy. A 300tdi is easier to fix in Africa then a TD5 in my opinion.