ajh Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 200TDI, R380. This week it became difficult to get into reverse, then nearly impossible unless the engine was stopped first. Suspected slave cylinder so swapped it out after repeated bleedings on the fitted one ended with the pedal refusing to come up from the floor. New slave, pedal returns fine but now the clutch will not fully disengage (and the top bolt hole seems to have stripped on the slave just to make things more fun) so even when trying to start it jumps forward even with the clutch fully depressed. Since everything else appears OK am I looking at having to drop the gearbox to replace the fork or similar? Other ideas? Very frustrated right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Sounds like it could be your clutch fork popped through at the ball, if you're nimble you may be able to inspect through the slave cylinder mounting hole, otherwise I'd say it was a gearbox removal jobby. worth maybe replacing the clutch while you're in there and defo put a heavy duty fork in as replacment. Personally I'd wack an aluminium clutch bearing carrier in there too. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 I know what it was now; and am somewhat surprised. The fork was already a HD unit, the clutch itself is a 130 version so unlikely to fail even with my tuning on the 200TDI. What failed was the pivot on which the clutch fork sits... it doesn't appear to be threaded and I don't have the box entirely out yet (though it's looking like that'll be needed... I really should just make the centre of the seatbox modular so I can get it out that much easier). Ideas on how to fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 pivot ball looks like a press fit in the bolted on bracket photo here http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=117536 this link has a photo of the pivot ball http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=101011 & this parts link has a diagram of the bracket item 3 & ball item 1 -- http://lrcat.com/#31/4/53542 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Personally, I would much rather take out the engine than the gearbox. If you've got an engine hoist it's a far less fiddly job than taking the box out, and easier to get back together again. Good opportunity to check hoses, pipes and whirly bits as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Well... so I welded the pivot ball back in place and it isn't coming out any time soon again. However when we went to put things back together I noticed a broken spring fragment and then that the centre of the friction plate had come apart and this was a 130 HD clutch plate (though 6 spring), the basket is still in perfect condition so I just need to source another friction plate. Any opinions on quality? Is the Valeo UQB000130G the one I want? This is the 2nd I've had to replace in 80,000KM which seems high to me; though the first one was a Britpart due to a B&B ordered but Paddocks substituting a Britpart which had no copper in the friction plate which then disintegrated one day on the trail... (boy was that fun). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 link needs us to log in.This is a Valeo heavy duty friction plate for a 110/130 UBQ100130 Note -- it has 8 damper springs.currently have a full Valeo clutch in my 110, it's fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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