landroversforever Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Anyone out there got a rear winch on a 90/110 and kept the option for a NATO hitch? If you have I'd be very grateful if you could post some pictures. I need to work out how/where I'm going to have the cable routed before I order the new chassis and I would like to keep the option to have a NATO hitch. Currently planning on mounting the winch to the southdown towpack, and bracing it back. The winch (at the moment) will be a Husky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I'm in the same position. I want to retain the nato hook but also have the rear winch. I will be using a husky also. There is the option to copy daan and run the rope under the crossmember. I intend to offset the hawse to one side (easily achieved with a husky as the drum is offset anyway) and route the rope over the top of the crossmember but below the floor. I would suitably strengthen the top of the crossmember to which to mount a hawse The issue is that due to the size of the nato hook it seems likely that at some point the nato will foul the rope during a pull at an angle If I were in a position to buy a chassis I would probably specify a number of crush tubes in the rear chassis rails to accommodate m12 fixings, which would future proof the chassis to some extent as you could build any further mods (including a winch mount) off these fixing holes. Ditto for the chassis rails either side of the engine and gearbox, again allowing you to build bolt on mounts for any future engine changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 I'm in the same position. I want to retain the nato hook but also have the rear winch. I will be using a husky also. There is the option to copy daan and run the rope under the crossmember. I intend to offset the hawse to one side (easily achieved with a husky as the drum is offset anyway) and route the rope over the top of the crossmember but below the floor. I would suitably strengthen the top of the crossmember to which to mount a hawse The issue is that due to the size of the nato hook it seems likely that at some point the nato will foul the rope during a pull at an angle If I were in a position to buy a chassis I would probably specify a number of crush tubes in the rear chassis rails to accommodate m12 fixings, which would future proof the chassis to some extent as you could build any further mods (including a winch mount) off these fixing holes. Ditto for the chassis rails either side of the engine and gearbox, again allowing you to build bolt on mounts for any future engine changes Lewis... are you inside my head or something?! Those are all of my thoughts! Especially the crush tubes for the engine mounts to future proof it! It would be easy to letter box the crossmember to one side of the hook, but as you stole from my head said, the NATO is likely to get in the way at some point. I was originally thinking of replacing the middle body mount on the crossmember with the fairlead mounting, but the Husky doesn't go over far enough. So the next thought was to build it in the gap between two of them. The rope under is a little difficult as you have the drop plate mountings to contend with on the southdown guard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 You don't have to use the Southdown guard Yes between the centre and 2nd from right body mount tab is where I had in mind for the hawse, it could go the other side of course but I think it would be less in the way at the hinge side of the door Let's see how many other thoughts we have in common; I would specify straight chassis rails from rear spring seats to rear crossmember and do away with the pointless dip in the standard chassis. I would have an early type rear crossmember but without any of the OE holes, it would be plated fully across the back face to reduce mud traps and plated for the nato hook on the front face. Probably incorporate some kind of corner protection too I would delete the outrigger parts that go under the front dumb irons/bumper mounts where the jacking points are, I cut them off every land rover I own anyway. I would also replace the tubular outriggers for 75x75x3 box section, and have the bulkhead outriggers square not tapered back as standard, for ease of roll cage fitment. There's more, I could go on all night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 You don't have to use the Southdown guard Yes between the centre and 2nd from right body mount tab is where I had in mind for the hawse, it could go the other side of course but I think it would be less in the way at the hinge side of the door. Let's see how many other thoughts we have in common; I would specify straight chassis rails from rear spring seats to rear crossmember and do away with the pointless dip in the standard chassis. Hadn't thought of the straight chassis rails, I probably need the curve for the anti roll bar brackets for the southdown and the X-Deflex. I would have an early type rear crossmember but without any of the OE holes, it would be plated fully across the back face to reduce mud traps and plated for the nato hook on the front face. Probably incorporate some kind of corner protection too definitely the early type crossmember rather than the T'cheeseD5 one. Hadn't thought about plating for that reason, but for some increased strength where the rear cage hoop will mount through to. Have the inside plated and crush-tubed for the NATO but I have extended the southdown rear mount to incorporate the NATO spreader. I would delete the outrigger parts that go under the front dumb irons/bumper mounts where the jacking points are, I cut them off every land rover I own anyway. On my list, but need to see what it looks like with my steering guard... IE will there be gaps! I would also replace the tubular outriggers for 75x75x3 box section, and have the bulkhead outriggers square not tapered back as standard, for ease of roll cage fitment. Not on my list, as the cage will be mounting on top of the chassis rails (mounts added by Richards), and the external hoop would be braced back to the same point. There's more, I could go on all night EDIT: please do, there may be other ideas I haven't thought of! The southdown guard is there so I have the removable drop plate for towing, and it makes a good solid base for a winch mount. As I want to come off the top of the drum, I'd be having to have the fairlead on the near side gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Ahh, anti roll bars are not on my list, nowhere near. I would have flanges on the ends of the bulkhead and tank outriggers so that the rock slider/sill bars could attach in a useful manner, they would also double up as floor and seat box supports so I could lose the standard channel. I would plate in from the top face of the front spring seat to the inside of the chassis rail to remove another mud trap. Likewise the front and rear faces of the spring seat against the chassis rail would be plated The bulkhead outrigger would not have that ridiculous hole in the underside. I would ditch the front brake pipe brackets, I run mine like a land cruiser with one flexi to the axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Why not mount the rear winch in a custom A frame crossmember, then you could have a small fairlead like a top winch one which could be easily hidden? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 i have seen winch mounted in a tank guard before with the fairlead on the guard itself, so coming out from under the crossmember but arranged in such a way it wont catch on the bottom of the crossmember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Mikey, are you thinking of Daan's setup mentioned already in this thread? Lastly, the rear winch fairlead for Ross: I bended a stainless hoop, with some stainless steel tabs welded to it that sandwich beteen the rear towhook and the crossmember and bolt to the bottom angle. It doesnot affect the departure angle, but still provides guidance in all directions. Daan Dan, I can't envisage how an a frame crossmember could be built to still perform it's original function, form the basis of the roll cage mounts, and also incorporate a winch mounting without encroaching into the load space and having to box in the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 similar, although this was a standard hawse fairlead mounted in a similar place on a standard tank guard. come to think of it it might have been the harper 4x4 club challenge truck (origionally a Devon 4x4 truck) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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