Gromit

Your clutch isn't slipping is it? Might account for the lack of power. Oh, and what lights do you have on the front?

I don't know that prices in NI are that representative, (and I never know what age your UK plate letters are) but I paid 3KStg for a 91, 200tdi. It had 150k on the clock at the time, a few years back. Doors were falling off at the time, and still are Don't like those wheels Is that a brownchurch roof rack? I wouldn't be without mine, but horses for courses etc.

I think we all bend the rules from time to time, and the mods go a great job of keeping us all in check. While the 2 threads do concern pretty much all users of the forum, this forum is here for one purpose and one purpose only - LRs. The occasional OT thread is ok, and I think that the mods do let the occasional one fly, but setting a precedent, I don't that is, or should be the case.

Certainly from this side of the mound, low first at idle, you should just chug up up. Dew, just in case you don't know, you can engage and disengage your centre diff-lock on the move, at any speed, just as long a you aren't spinning a wheel. Looks like a nice spot

Well, The original was written for a defender, but the broader the better I reckon

Good move. Pity you didn't get out to them with a baseball bat

Wasn't there a BMW engine in the RaRo for a while? Found the pics - post No 19 in this thread Pics

Hi all, I've posted this a few times, and it seems to be a useful basic guide to buying a truck. See post #2 in this thread (I can't find the original thread with the pictures.) buying a landrover Due to me not being familiar with anything other than a 200tdi, it's not complete. So, can the knowledgeable among you complete it by detailing what to look for when buying the engines below. 2 1/4 2.5NA 2.5TD 300tdi - anything I've not covered. TD5 V8 TGV2.8? Anything else, didn't some of them have BMW engines? Detail the following and anything else you know about the engine: What to look for How to check it How it starts and runs normally. How fast a good one should pull Normal running temp. What gearboxes the come with and any caveats Common problems and how complicated/expensive they are to fix. etc. etc. etc. Looking forward to your literary ramblings

Drivers (RH) door window regulator MUC3024 - up to LA932486 Drivers (RH) door window regulator ALR4533 - from LA932487 I got mine from LR and it was pretty expensive. My local independent LR garage has pattern ones that are much cheaper. It's not a difficult job. From memory: Remove winder, handle, lever, locktrim and anything else holding the door card on. Work around and gently lever the door card off the door. Lift up off the bottom of the window and remove. NOTE which way round the regulator is! With the window about 1/2 way down, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the regulator on. You may have to unbolt the upper part of the frame also - I can't remember exactly. Wind the window all the way down and disengage the rollers of the regulator from the window. Wiggle the regulator out of the door. Fit new regulator

Not in this country. There has been huge political debate about rolling out broadband across Ireland with the help of the comms regulator to open exchanges to competitors. Unfortunately, the regulator has absolutely no powers to overcome Eircom's monopoly, which they have retained. As a result, BB penetration is something like 4 years behind schedule. Fair point - I was just having a rant!

And I can't think of many of these that you need, well I haven't needed any. I reckon the most expensive single item I've bought was an impact socket and breaker bar for the crank shaft nut. I did shell out for ratchety spanners though, and they have been WELL worth the money.

As said, there are a lot of common parts, not least engines, so you can pick up a lot on the International Forum, plus it's the busiest, and a bit more diverse than here. When you read about someone's misfortune with a Range Rover who's electronic brain has died, you can just be smug in the knowledge that your truck has no intelligence built into it at all Yeah, but some of it will stick, and a clearer picture will emerge - honest ..and you won't regret it. Ya gotta love 'em, despite their Idiosyncrasies.

Now, I've never driven a 90, but it's hard to beat the versatility of a 110. You can seat 5 in reasonable comfort, and still carry everyone's kit in the back. With the 2nd row seats folded down, you can get your house into it. 200tdi - mines got 217k and doesn't look like it's gonna quit just yet. The only bad thing about the 110 is the turning circle - 10m on standard rims

On my previous XP machine, I had ZoneAlarm, and it behaved in a rather viral fashon, taking up tonnes of memory and killing the machine. I had the same problem as you and never managed resolve it (and I'm a programmer) Problem with your v8, get a diesel. Problem with windows, install linux - which is what I did. That was 4 years ago - haven't had a hitch since.

you bent the hinge yet? Looks a bit weak.

You're lucky can can (sort of) get broadband. I live 2 miles from the biggest town in Ireland, 40 miles from Dublin. I know that the fibre connecting Belfast to Dublin (and on to London) to is about a mile from me. Is my local exchange enabled - of course not. Are they planning to enable it? - HA I have to get wireless BB, and I only have line of sight to one of the wireless providers. Eircom-broadband-rollout, local-loop-unbundling, independant-comms-regulator my big hairy aunt. Look, you've gone and got me started! (At least mine works most of the time )

My toolbox has been falling apart for ages, and I've been keeping my eye out for one. I've not seen one that I thought would be really suitable (big enough) to hold all my tools in the back of the truck, and fit under the shelf. Anyway, in Halfords this evening, I decided to buy this one. It's pretty expensive at about 60e , and I wasn't hugely impressed with the build quality, but I got it anyway. Best of an average lot, or so I'm hoping. This is the 3 drawer one. 1 foot high, by 1'8" by 9". There's also 2 and 4 drawer ones. Each drawer is 2" deep. The top part is 2 3/4" deep with another 2" headroom in the lid. It's made from light steel. The lid is a bit flimsy, (you couldn't stand on it), but the drawers actually look like they can hold a fair bit of weight. The drawers only open when the lid is up. I've lined it with vinyl to keep the noise down. Anyway, we'll see how it holds up.

just reported it to Ebay. Hope it doesn't finish.

ok, so I happened to come across these drive flanges on a large LR parts website: The reason I noticed them is cause they look very much like these, from a smaller (and by all accounts, very reputable) company: The first one is 30 quid, the second is 85. ok, so I haven't mentioned anyone, but it's pretty easy to figure out. So, what's going on here? They may not be exactly the same, but the sure are of a very similar design. Reseller, copied, nicked, inspired by.... Out of sheer badness, I looked to see if our favourite part-copying-lobster website was selling anything like them , but their site is down - ha ha ha ha....ahem

In my parts cat. they are listed as part of the pipe

Yeah, that probably is the party line. There are way too many clutches in there though. Might work while sitting parked in your driveway, but while actually driving......

I thought all the turbos were pretty much the same or similar spec. Are you sure it's the turbo causing the lack of oomph? Has it been serviced recently? Can you check the boost pressure? is the FIP fuelling as it should? handbrake on, cat in the intercooler, ? etc. etc.

Hi Phil, Welcome to the forum. While there are a few inaccuracies in the Haynes, I think it's invaluable for someone new to LRs. It's a good introduction, you'll get familiar with all the terms and it describes most jobs pretty well. Yes some things are a bit daft in it, but it'll get you most of the way. Next, as has been said, get yourself a parts catalogue. There are a couple of varieties, from a simple pdf file, to the software LR use in their garages. As well as detailed diagrams, you can always be sure you are ordering the right parts. The one and only time I ordered something without a part number, it took 3 goes to a garage 60miles away to get the right part. Next, read, read and read on this forum! There are many questions that arise again and again, and they will stick in your head. So the next time you are wondering why your truck clicks going round a corner, or your indicators don't work, you'll have already read the thread and know the answer! Plus there'll probably be a thread from Les to hold your hand while doing the job Buy tools as you need them - and get good ones. You don't need much to start off with spanners, maybe a socket set, some screwdrivers and a collection of hammers When I started, I had no tools,very little mechanical knowledge and no experience. I had no choice to learn myself and do any work the truck needed. Everything I've learned has been from studying the parts cat, reading this forum and getting my hands dirty. I love learning, and plus you get to see all the bits you've read about over and over again! A few years on, and I've done loads of work to the truck, and there isn't a job I wouldn't have a go at. Start off with changing all the oils - engine, gearbox, transfer box, axles and swivel housings. You'll be flying in no time.

I always have the same problem, a bit hit and miss as to whether it stays on properly or not. I usually just end up holding the nozzle in position and pumping the gun with my elbow, bagpipe style

New one to me. Should I take offense?