Nope, that's not really normal. Heat is from friction, maybe due to the UJ siezing.
Time to take the front prop off and have a good look at it and drive about and see if your problems go away.
thanks Ralph. I didn't think of adjusting the cable, as it was working ok (well, as well as a drum hand brake does) before hand.
Will have a look tomorrow.
Do you have a part no for weekend sunshine? Any idea on the availability?
Fitted new shoes to the handbrake last week. Adjusted so that a raised road wheel spins freely. Hand brake full on a 5 clicks or so.
Was a bit noisy, but after a 140 mile trip it still noisy. Warm-ish to the touch after the run, but that could have just been heat from the transfer box.
So, I've backed it off another 1/2 turn so full application is now with the handle vertical, to try and stop the noise.
What the hell? Aftermarket shoes?
I really don't want to take the rear prop off again. Even with the difflock tool, I find it a bit of a curse
only ever driven my 110, but I'd like an 88 or 90 soft-top for summer fun, and something a bit smaller than the 110. Can't beat a 110 though for general all round (ab)use.
Have finished carpeting it, but now that it's all black it doesn't photograph so well!!
I thought about chequer plate, but I really wanted to keep the noise down. The carpet should be reasonably hard wearing and had really quietened things a lot.
Let me know if you need more photos/measurements etc.
yep, the clear stuff.
While in French thunderstorms, the sunroof was leaking like a sieve. During a few hours of sunshine, all I could find was the white stuff, and I lashed it all over the sunroof seals. Looks a mess, but it worked, sortof
Someday, I'll be arsed to take the lights and roofrack off and sort it properly.
I've not done the rear, but I've done the front.
Do you have disks or drums? The drums can be a bit of a swine to get off.
Fronts are easy enough. Just make sure you have all the required tools and parts and enough tea & biscuits. A mate for moral support always helps.
No tips as such really.
I find changing the filter muckier than the oil its self, which is easy enough.
I use mineral 15w40 in my 91 200tdi. It has 215k miles on it.
Oil changed when ever I think of it and it isn't raining - usually about twice a year, prolly every 5k miles. Would reduce that if running veg oil.
When changing the gearbox, don't be too frightened by the amount of steel you find attached to the magnetic drain plug.
just finished changing the handbrake shoes and transfer output oil seal.
Thanks to Les' tech article, I knew where I was going and it was a breeze (makes a change!)
As I was changing the shoes, I took the adjuster and expander assemblies off.
One tip, when you're putting the whole lot back together, mark a horizontal line on the tapered actuator on the expander assembly so it doesn't move. Fit the top and bottom rollers and pistons (the right way round!) and hold the bottom one in place with a tie wrap round the edge of the piston.
Fit the shoes, snip the tie wraps, job done.
Handbrake is a bit noisy so I've it backed off to full on at 6 clicks till it beds in.
Thanks again
I had the same problem on my CSW. I just ran silicone sealant along the outside of the rubber.
Use washing up liquid on your fingers to smooth into position.
SWMBO, in this case my granny, has been looking at the concrete area where I pulled the head off the Yellow Van last year.
Seems there are some oil stains on the concrete, and she wants shot of them.
I don't imagine this will easy to remove, but what do you use/recommend?
Steering end-stop adjustment.
It's a bolt on the swivel that contacts the inner swivel from memory. Tends to wear down wee bit if you keep hitting it.
Just wind the passenger side one out a smidge.