Gromit

Will do. After discovering this, am tempted to go out and do it now, in the dark. The neighbours might think I was a bit mad though

Just realised my sliding joint is at the other end I thought the bolt pattern was different at each end.

Ralph, Thanks a million - I really appreciate you going out and taking pictures I´ll do a comparison in the morning and decide where to go from there.

My French is reasonable, I lived there for a few years. I also have a mate living there who is uber-fluent and can help me out. PM me you letter.

All very interesting reading, I understood most of it . So, I tried Bill's suggestion and moved the bushes on the chassis to the front side of the bracket. This lifted the flange of the diff by 15mm. The vibrations are still there, but might be slightly improved. Here's what it looks like now. Bear in mind that the camera angle skews it somewhat. The angle at the diff is almost straight, while the t'box end has a fair angle on it. So, given both theories so far, I'm at a loss as to what to do next. Pull the diff up further so that it's straight, or lower it so that ends of the prop shaft are parallel. As bill says, that's going to be pretty low.

Yup, they are.

I don't understand your logic on this at all. Putting a lift in raises the nose of the diff. If you look at the second picture, which was taken level with the door tops, the ruler indicates that the diff nose is too high. By that logic, the nose needs to be lowered

Some pics. I removed the wheel and lowered the axle back down to where it sits normally The camera is at the same height as the sill and had been leveled with the door tops, cause my driveway isn't level. I then zoomed in and placed an edge against the diff nose, which shows that the diff is nose-high. Jez, is this enough for you to guesstimate the shimmage? I could put the wheel back and and slacken the trailing arms and try and measure how much they need to be shimmed, but I'm not sure how accurately I can check the diff is level. I might try and find somewhere level and then try and level the diff with a spirit level. Cheers,

So, I've fitted new trailing arms from Jez (Thanks a lot man, lovely items, once I spent 1/2 an hour getting them out of the wrapping ) BUT, the vibes are still there. I know that putting a ton of concrete in the back fixes the vibes, so the t'box and diff still mustn't be parallel when she's empty. Seeing as it's the lift that is causing this, I guess that the nose of diff is too high (haven't had a proper look as work is a bit mad at the moment) so the new trailing arms need to be extended to move the diff nose back down to its correct position. Can the trailing arms be shimmed where they attach to the chassis? If so, where can I get some? I assume that the vibration will be doing some damage to t'box or diff bearings, but I've needed it for work. Probably done about 300 miles with it like this. Thanks a lot guys 'n' gals.

Mine's been named by various Ex's, which I won't repeat here. Haven't got around to naming it/her myself. Usually, and rather boringly, just called 'The Truck'

:hysterical: I can't wait till they phone me. I live 100m off a main road, the 4th entrance on the left. I tell every courier this when they phone I stand at the gate and attempt to wave at a <insert courier name> van whizzing past at about 60 on a small B road. 5 minutes later, I'll get a call from them. "I'm at the shop" "You've gone about a mile too far. Did you count the entrances from the main road?" "erm, well no, I thought you were down by the shop." "well, I'm 4 entrances from the main road, like I said" 5 minutes they'll pass a bit more slowly, going the other way. I suppose i could flag them down, but it's much more fun to watch them go up to the main road, turn around and start counting like they were supposed to do in the first place.

Aye, but they haven't arrived yet!!! :lol:

at that age everything will clunk Probably a combination of gearboxes, difs and drive members. Have you looked in the tech archive? The clutch should self-adjust for wear. The peddle box should be adjusted to that it as about 2mm of play at the top. Do you know what condition the master/slave and fluid are like?

Cheers Les. Yeah, you don't have to tell me. Don't get me started on the price difference between sending stuff from the UK to Northern Ireland (4 miles from me) and to the South of Ireland. Hope it didn't cost you too much.

Mine had no screws in it when I replaced it, so I got some and put them in. 2 weeks later was taking it off again, and they're a swine to remove, so I left them out.

Mine's 23" too. Should have measured mine before I put the springs in.

Do you find the rear very stiff when it's empty? Does it look as high as mine? I suspect not.

Cheers.

yes, sorry trailing arms. Details??

My gauge seems to be pretty responsive. Normal driving it sits vertical. Hammering down the motorway gets it to the end of the white scale, towards the red zone. I put this down to having pretty much no fins left on the radiator

Thanks RPR. These are britpart springs. Front is ok, but the back has that dragracer look. For a 2" lift, it looks pretty high. so, I put in about 40 concrete H blocks in the back and now it looks like this, and the vibration is gone Drove about for a while and it's been sitting all day with the blocks in the back. Don't know if it'll stay at a more normal height once I remove the blocks. If not, who supplies corrected rear radius arms?

looking underneath, the only play I can see is possibly the transfer output bearing. Moving the prop shaft yields about 1mm of movement at the outside edge of the handbrake drum. Could this cause the noise? Should the transfer end be completely play free, as it is on the diff end of the prop? anyone?

I put in 2 inch lift at the back last week and I started getting some growly vibes when switching from drive to overrun. At about 60mph it´s pretty bad. When driving or on overrun there´s no noise, it´s only when there´s no load on the transmission. I reckoned the lift was showing up some wear in the prop shaft UJs, so yesterday I changed both UJs on the rear prop. Annoyingly, the vibes are still there So, what else could it be? Suggestions on a post card please

Ditto. I develop mobile .net applications for vehicle inspections, either on PDAs or tablet devices. Interesting work and it pays the bills

I don't think you are the only one who has that problem!!!