Marks 110

Thought I'd try and test my temp gauge this afternoon as I think I may have a cooling problem. Had a (cheapish) digital gauge fitted for the last couple of years but never been too sure on the accuracy. Anyway here's what I did Got a pan of boiling water bubbling away on a gas camping stove Unscrewed sender and immersed in pan along with two digital thermometers During a rolling boil thermometers reading 100-101 deg as you might expect Digital gauge reading only 93-95 degrees (this is worrying as it reached 90 deg while driving through the french pyrenees so was prob close to overheating) Also tried it wired direct from battery terminals but made no difference Then refitted original land rover gauge and did same During rolling boil gauge is reading just past the 12 o'clock position Is this what you would expect? I know with the system pressurised (Rad cap is rated at 15 psi) the coolant will get above 100 before it boils but how hot can it get?

Have you noticed any pressure in the cooling system when you remove the cap on a cold engine? Had mine sniff tested and garage reckoned it was fine but I thought something was wrong as there was a large hiss of air when removing the expansion tank cap in morning with engine completely cold. Head gasket went a few weeks after. Funnily enough I'd just removed the stat to try and keep it cool, probably a bad idea. Mark

Yes I have a new viscous fan fitted but I ought to test it to make sure its definately working. Temp was getting up to 86-87 when in traffic even with heater on. I wouldn't be worried about these temps either but when I put the original gauge back in it puts the temp virtually in the red. This makes me worried about the accuracy of the digital gauge. For the first 7 years that I owned the vehicle the original gauge sat at the 11 o'clock position and never moved. When it did go higher is also when I've started having head gasket problems. Will aim to test the the two gauges in a pan of boiling water tonight and see what happens. Will keep you posted. Mark

Yeah I've been on all terrains for about 3-4 years and certainly haven't achieved 35mpg since but its only in the last 6 months that I've noticed poor economy. Digital gauge reads between 80-83 normally but has got up to 90 (with heater on full) during mountain climbs before I chickened out and pulled over to let it cool. Thing is I don't really trust it as standard gauge is reading hot. Just wondering really if FIP could cause poor economy or the engine to run hot. Will check handbrake when I get chance. Mark

I must admit 35 mpg was the best I've ever got (on a steady trip to norfolk and back driving very carefully) but it used to regularly achieve 30-32 providing I didn't thrash it. Now I can't get anywhere near 30. Tyres are now 265 BFG AT's though, probably not as economical as the more road biased 235 General Grabbers The current gauge (digital) is using the sender it came with have. I also have the original gauge and a new britpart one which both read hot (over half way not far from red). I've tried a new sender for them as well. As Les says the handbrakes worth a look but surely it would become hot and smell if binding? Theres definately a problem somewhere as a few years ago I went over the Pyrenees no problem with the standard gauge hardly rising at all which surely a well maintained landy should be capable of. To make things worse the oil pressure light came on yesterday, am hoping this is a wiring issue! Cheers for your replies will get to the bottom of this eventually. Mark

Bit confused with that table, would have thought boiling point would be more than 101 degrees at 15 psi?

Just a thought. After unexplained high running temp and and reduced fuel economy (getting 26/27mpg down from 30-35) am just wondering if injection pump could be at fault (done 165,000 miles). Have changed head (after a couple of blown gaskets) and also block (after bent con-rod from blown gasket)replaced entire cooling system all made no difference. Only the turbo and injection pump remain original. Engine pulls fine with only a bit of black smoke when accelerating hard. Could pump be over fuelling causing poor economy and high running temp? Pump has never been tweaked. Mark

Actually the block is from a disco but turbo etc all original. Have tried a couple of stats and current one is a genuine item. Stat is rated at 88 but it seems to open at 83 on gauge as temp suddenly falls at this point after 5-10 mins of driving. So could assume gauge is reading 5 degrees too low, which means engine reached 95 - too hot? Mark

Anyone else have a digital temp gauge on a 200tdi? Would be interested to see what temp they can safely reach. Mark

Broke the gear selector on my 110, could move gear stick but just stayed in same gear. Was in France at time and local garage fixed it for £50! Have also had master cylinder suddenly fail (clutch goes straight to floor with no resistance) and then start working again? Changed it anyway at first opportunity. Mark

The scenario - A fully laden 200tdi 110 travelling through the French Pyrenees in august, ambient temp of 30 degrees plus, new rad (britpart item didn't look very good quality), water pump and viscous fan fitted. Temp gauge is aftermarket digital type and normally runs between 80 and 83 degrees during normal driving in England. After 10-15mins of climbing through the mountains at low speeds temp was up to 89-90 (thats with heater on full) which prompted me to pull off the road and leave engine running for 15 mins to cool down rather than risk cooking the engine a thousand miles from home. A bit over cautious? Am not sure on the accuracy of the temp gauge you see. When tested against a digital thermometer (both immersed in a cup of just off the boil water) it was reading 5 degrees lower which may put the actual temp at 95. Guess I should test it in water at a rolling boil and look for 100 deg? Anyway ideas on how to make engine run cooler? Very frustrating having to stop and cool engine when all that exploring to do. Wondered about alisport aluminium rad? Cheers Mark

No security I'm afraid. Did you notice the bonnet catches on the photo, there quite unusual.

It was taken from the Sidcup area so you may well have seen it. Photo attached if I can get it to work.

REG. No. K361WOB, will find out chassis no. when I can.

My friend had his 1993 110 stolen from the Kent area last night. Gutting as it had been in the family for about 8 years and was well travelled on many family foreign holidays. Distinguishing features; -Newish BFG all terrains on silver modulars -Red paintwork badly faded apart from on two new doors -Reconditioned head from Turners fitted recently -Full length galvanised Brownchurch Rack -Bad corrosion on bulkhead corners Would appreciate people keeping an eye out, am pretty sure that newly fitted head will turn up somewhere. PM me if you have any info The thieves were pretty determined as they had two attempts at it so beware! Mark

Check for excessive pressure in the cooling system. Remove rad cap when engine is stone cold, there should be no escape of pressure, well maybe a slight hiss, but not a massive escape of air/gurgling. If this is the case suspect head gasket. I've just changed my engine and for some reason the new engine runs a few degrees cooler, not sure why? Mark

What caused gasket to go before? Was head skimmed? Have had problems myself with cheap gaskets.Now use elring on 200tdis and so far no probs on two separate vehicles which had both blown cheap gaskets. Mark

Sounds like head gasket failure to me. Mark

My 110 when running well will maintain 70mph-80mph on the flat. Speed may drop to about 60 on long motorway inclines. I would say if it can't maintain 70 on falt roads then something is wrong. I would check elsewhere (cheaper componants) before changing the turbo. I've just fitted a second hand engine which seemed to cure smoke problems which I had associated with the turbo. Mark

I'd stick with the 200tdi and maybe repair the one you've got, it might only need a head gasket. If its dead you should be able to source one from a disco easily enough. I got mine for £200 from a breakers. You'd also have plenty of spares that way. Mark

Cheers, will try that.

Yes I've only done about 25 miles so I'll leave it a bit longer before I investigate further. Thanks for your help regarding the cylinder honing Les I'm really pleased with the engine so far, a definate improvement. Cheers Mark

Yep that sounds possible, I couldn't get engine and gearbox to mate so I turned crank slightly and both parts slammed together. It wouldn't surprise me if I damaged something just hope its not the gearbox shaft. At least it was the old clutch I put back in. Looks like gearbox out then I reckon is slightly less work that removing the engine. Mark

Maybe, although it didn't appear to be distorted. I also dislodged the pushrod on the slave cylinder which may have somehting to do with it? Any idea why its only reverse gear thats crunching? Mark

Finally got the old disco block fitted into my defender. Turned out to be a big job swapping parts over and had to re-hone one cylinder which had gone a bit rusty. Anyway just taken it for a short test drive and it pulls really well and no smoke! Did a compression test when I got back and all cylinders around 430/440 psi which seems fine. So thanks for help and advice. Might have saved a fortune on a reconditioned engine. A few things to sort such as leaking front crank oil seal which I'm on with now. But biggest problem is that I can't now engage reverse without crunching gears and first also seems a bit stiff. Was fine before I took the engine out but I did had difficulty getting the engine and gearbox to mate up and am now worried I might have damaged the clutch. I did strengthen the clutch fork by welding a bit of 3mm steel around the back of the pivot point. Any ideas before I seperate the engine and gearbox to have a look. Thanks again for your help Mark