Mean Green

I am really just thinking aloud at the moment, I had a conversation today that got me thinking. I have a 200tdi 90 and 3.9 V8 RRC auto . Would it be possible to switch the engines and gearboxes round, so give a 200 RRC and V8 90.

Thanks for all the advice. I have had a change of plan. I lifted the body off and to be honest, apart from the rear cross member the chassis is in decent condition. So a new crossmember is winging its way to me and hopefully I will start the fitting at the weekend.

Last night I lifted the tub/sides/roof off my 90 to allow me to have a good look at the chassis before deciding whether to change it for a galv one or not. The upshot is that the Chassis is in fairly good nick ... apart from the rear cross member, but I already knew about it. So, I am going to replace the cross member. The chassis rails seem fine. So should I go for one with extensions or not? Does the extensions give it extra strength or would the cross member alone be strong enough?

Thanks 110. I tried PRB, but didnt get an answer on the phone. In the mean time is there anywhere else to try? Are the mil suppliers the same as civvie suppliers? or are there specialists to contact? (Can you tell I am not really up on my Mil LR's!!)

I need need some advice on the military type front bumpers - the ones with the tow pin built into the bumper. How strong are these bumpers? Where can I get one ... and how much? The reason I ask is that I am about to purchase a Civvie LR for work. It is going to be used as an airfield "tug", ie moving equipment around the airfield and it helps to have a towing eye on the front as well as rear to make manouvring easier. So I was thinking about the mil type bumper. Would these be up to the job of moving anything up to about 3 tons? bearing in mind it is all on tarmac and flat surfaces. Would I need to strengthen it in anyway? Thanks Greg

Carrick are good. Or you could always try Martin ... a bit more of a trek but I just found out he has access to a 50 ton press ... that should do it! Plus I am always down that way at the outlaws so I can always Pony Express it for you. (Ditto for Carrick Engineering - 2 mins from my office) Greg

How do. Niall, the handling on mine is now cured. It all stemmed from the PAS box, it was slackened off slightly and everything is almost tickety boo. It is still a little wandery, but that is all due to the PAS box... and it is acceptable.

Excellent pics! The Ocean Road pics are great .... I have a set very similar from my trip there in 2004. Awsome place! I just which I could have taken the time to drive it in my own 90 ... rather than in a tour bus! I am also glad that we were not the only sad people that had to do a pilgramige to Ramsay Street!!

I had not intended to change the chassis when I started. I was only planning to change the bulkhead and doors. However, I discovered a bit of rust on the chassis and I recon it is a "now or never" moment. I am going to lift the rear tub off and see just how bad the chassis is before making the final decision whether to change or not. So I am doing my homework and fearing the worst!

Thanks for the words of encouragement!! I am halfway there already .....

I have decided to change the chassis on the 90. So apart from Richards Chassis and Designa, are there any other chassis manufacturers/suppliers? I had considered a second hand chassis, but as I am not willing to risk a Q-plate, I dont think it is an option.

I had exactly the same on my 1993 200 tdi. Check the main earth cable from the battery to the chassis. Mines had corroded really badly. Take it off, give it a good clean and it should help. I had to chop a bit off mine and out on a new ring connection. Good Luck

Just make sure you have your porridge on Sat!

Thanks Ralph! I had a feeling you might be the one to answer Hopefully it will lift off ok in one go!

I am going to have to take the rebuild of the Defender a little bit further than first antisipated (sp??). After changing the bulkhead outrigger, I spent this morning rubbing down the chassis from the seat box forward, so that I could repaint it. However, I came across a few more small holes in the chassis... so, I have decided that the best course of action is to take the tub off too, so that I can inspect, treat and paint the rest of the chassis. There is no point doing the front now, to find that the rear needs doing in 6 months! So the plan is to lift the entire tub, side and roof off in one go ... rather than strip it all down. (Has any one done it this way??) So what I need is a definative guide to the number - and location of all the bolts holding the tub on. Are there any diagrams on RAVE or the workshop manuals that show all the bolt locations? Thanks in advance. Greg

Thanks for the opinions. Now to take it a bit further. The chassis was blasted with shultz underbody sealer about 18 months ago, and all the areas that were done - ie the areas that can be reached from underneath, are in very good condition. I have rubbed a couple fo areas back and the metal is fresh underneath. So I dont see any point in rubbing it all back to do it again. What would happen if I painted over the underbody sealer with the enamel paint?

The other side is in very good condition... in fact the rest of the front end of the chassis is in good condition, I have been all over it with the hammer to check it. I am just planning what to do to protect it in my Chassis Prep Thread And for completeness, here is the new outrigger in place. The only thing still to do is weld on a small plate to the underside of the outrigger where it meets the chassis rail. The old one had to be cut off.

Thanks Tony. Will probably give enamel a go.

Sorry, its that old chestnut again..... I am in the process of changing the bulkhead on my 1993 90 and have had to change the bulkhead outrigger at the same time .. see Outrigger replacement Thread The rest of the chassis seems to be in decent condition, however, since it is stripped back, I might as well paint it. But what with? The obvious thing would be waxoil or schultz type underbody sealant, but since it will stay tacky for about 6 weeks, it will only cause a mess. I had thought about Hammeriting all the inacessable areas, then waxoil it from underneath once it the all back together. What other option are there? I am looking for something that will dry quickly (ie 24 hours rather than 6 weeks) and will not cause a mess as I need to work in the engine bay to put it all back together. Cheers.

Well, the old outrigger is off, and the area is prep'd hopefully the new one will be welded on tonight, and I can get on with the next phase of the rebuild. Before..... During .... After to follow!

The driverside bulkhead outrigger on my 90 is shot! We had a look at the options of welding it up the other night, but it is too far gone. So, are there any hints and tips that people have found when changing them? It looks a relatively straighforward job.. are there any pitfalls? The bulkhead has been removed, so access is fairly easy.

Hmm yeah I want to..... but have decided that 2 broken Landies is enough!! A third would be suicide!!

Thanks Diff. That flaw crossed my mind after I made the post. However, that aside, are there any other issues? Greg

Has anyone ever considered the possibility of fitting a 3 point seat belt system to the front centre seat in a 90? I have been thinking about this as I will need to find some way of fitting a baby seat in about 6 months time A friend was visiting at the weekend and they have an Audi S6, which has 3 point system on all seats, on the centre seat the belt comes out of the top of the seat and then has 2 buckles that clip in at each side (I have also seen this on other vehicles too. So, What would be to stop me mounting a seatbelt reel on to the bulkhead and an extra buckle clip on the floor therefore having a three point system on the centre seat? Surely the bulkhead would be as strong as the door pillars, where the original reels are mounted, and the extra buckle would be at the original seatbelt mounting point?? Or is there a flaw in my plan?

Has anyone removed the internal bulkhead of a 90? If so how complicated was it and how much did it cost? I would like to completely remove the bulkhead (rather than just cut a section out). As I have the 90 stripped down at the moment, then now would probably be a good time to consider the option. A few pictures of the completed job would also be nice. Greg.