AJM90V8

Now I just need to sell the vehicle!

Just for anyone reading this post in the future: I changed in the Engine number on the V5 and sent it off - with just a Post-It note attached saying similar type of engine, same capacity. New V5 returned without question - thanks all for the advice.

Thanks MuddyWinny. I will try a garage, maybe even the local LR dealership. Their letter should carry authority! Indeed I meant to say DVLA!

Thanks, could try that but they clearly state on the website that proof is required. I would guess things probably have changed. angus

Back around 1990 I had the engine in my 90 changed by a local Land Rover specialist. For some reason - I don't recall now - I never got around to getting the V5 changed. Now I want to sell the vehicle and it is obviously an issue. i don't have the paperwork (two house moves later) and the garage has gone in the meantime. VOSA require proof to change an engine number - how should I approach this? If it makes a difference, the engine was swapped for a similar Land Rover V8 (ex range Rover to be precise) from a vehicle of about the same age: C reg I think vs. my D reg though I don't have any proof of this. (Matches engine number in V8 database)

I think mine has an AGA under the bonnet otherwise called a V8. I am never cold.

Fitted one to my V8 '90 many years ago -1996- and still going OK. Picked up an advisory "slight exhaust leak" on the last MOT but it is so small I can't find it. Generally I would say quality "very good" (at least back then) but I did find at the time that there were a few errors with the misc fitting parts supplied (nuts, bolts, gaskets) though these were sorted by Rimmer. +1 for Rimmer from me.

IMHO the seals are more important than the bearings. Fit first class bearings but if your seals are not great they will very soon be shot. Personal experience with Timken - generally thought to be good - lasting only a few thousand miles.

To cut the story short: while checking various as suggested I found that the nut holding the upper arm ball joint (if I have the terminology right) to the axle was loose. Not just loose but halfway off - and with no split pin in place. Totally amazed by this because I do almost all work myself - but after an MOT issue just before I SORNed the vehicle I had it replaced professionally.... So a spanner and a split pin fixed this issue in no time at all. So first prize to ejparrot for being in the right area without actually hearing the "clunk"

Thanks for all the thoughtful replies! Foolishly posted this in my MOT-pass enthusiasm just before going away on holiday; so sorry for appearing to ignore everything. Back now and I'll be on it over the next few days. Will definitely post what I find. PS: my vehicle is a "D" reg V8, LT85/LT230 mostly original running gear though with chassis & body rebuilt. Don't remember such a clunk before I SORN'd it...

Now that my vehicle has an MOT and I am driving it again... It seems there is some play in the transmission somewhere which can make a noticeable clunk if I am not careful changing gear. In fact if I am driving on the level and accelerate-decelerate it is quite definite. Obviously there are quite a few candidates - does anyone have any suggestions for a technique to identify where the problem is? I would say, more towards the back than in front, that's about all I can tell so far. Thanks!

If you buy a kit like the Britpart DA2380 then you will get all the bits you need - bearings, seals, washer, gasket, grease even - plus some that I don't understand why like a new nut - and all for £12-15 each side!

A bit of a delay on this post... But just to finish off, as I hoped after new bearings and oil seals at the back: my trusty V8 90 collected its MOT

Here's my log splitter and keeps me fit too http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Landscaping/d130/Log+Splitting/sd3179/Roughneck+Wood+Grenade+256+x+92+x+82mm/p40058

Happy days that your steering is transformed. Had to change my box to get through the MOT - steering fluid leaking like crazy. But sadly, steering not improved at all, I think a bit more vague. But that could be just compared to the vehicle I drive most days: should we be surprised that a 1987 LR with Mud Terrain tyres does not quite steer like a 2010 Vito...

Replaced mine with non-genuine (chrome) years ago and they have been perfect. Sorry that I can't remember which make.

After reading the manual and worrying how far in they should go, I have done the job. So for anyone in the future with the same question: One of the seals can be pushed in as far as you can, up against a shoulder in the hub. The other seal I pushed in just short of the race: I used some thin spacers to stop it just short of the race as this is how the old one looked. Recovery man could well be right that you can push it all the way in up to the bearing. For pressing in the bearings and the oil seals, I use an outer ring from the old bearing,.with a little material ground off so the it slides in and out easily.

Thought I should add a footnote for anyone reading in the future - and say thanks for all the suggestions... When I found all the rusty gunge and knackered bearings whilst taking off one hub, I did assume that the axle would be full of the same. As it turns out, draining the axle today proved that the oil was in good condition. The hub at the other side was in reasonable condition - though bearings a bit rusty & noisy. Quite why one end was so bad I am not sure: the hub and the outer end of the drive shaft were covered in a nasty and very rust oil/water mixture - but that did not seem to extend to the differential or the other side. Anyway, hopefully after a good clean plus new bearings and oil seals both sides my 90 will collect am MOT...

Been thinking about taking the axle off and coming to the same conclusion. Will be easier to get some protection on the driveway rather than taking the axle off. Might even put the wheels back on and move it - currently up on blocks waiting for the bearings to arrive... Which reminds me: my axle is the two seals on each side version - the manual mentions a special tool to press the oils seals in to the right depth, and doesn't mention a specific depth. I don't have this tool and it doesn't seem readily available - so I am assuming that if I will have to press them in to the depth they were - does this sound accurate enough? PS to robertspark: good tip on the splines, have come across this before. Nuts on the prop shaft flange imperial on my vehicle and always tricky to get at.

Thanks all for the advice. Robertspark: in your method were you suggesting the axle stay on the vehicle? Sounds a messy job so I fear I will have to take the axle off to get it off the drive and somewhere messy. Snagger: I was intrigued by your comment on wading. Did I lead a charmed life? I used be in water that depth quite regularly - and check axle oil regularly with no issues. Why this has happened while the vehicle was laid up is a puzzle. And only on the back I should add.

I was thinking more along the lines of some flushing/cleaning agent, and a short drive, then draining. I really want to avoid dis-assembly!

Troll hunter, This goes back a long way, but did you ever resolve this? I am replacing bearing and oil seals and have exactly the same question. Haven't found the tool for sale anywhere, either. Thanks.

Just getting my 90 back on the road after a long period (years) of storage... Amazingly, almost got through the MOT but failed on rear wheel bearings - noisy. The axle is filled with a rusty sludge of oil and water, hence bearings very rusty. What the best way - short of total dis-assembly preferably to clean this out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!