Landowner

Eh hem .... I'm a tarmac cowboy Might put a wheel on the grass now and then but other than pulling my car trailer off the field (which my Isuzu couldn't manage in the wet) , I'm usually on the hard stuff. This wheel is stronger than it looks and it's been driven in anger many times around various race tracks in the past but I think you are right about not leaning on it down a 45 degree incline probably would bend it !!! Just that I like the look and feel of it, could drill more mounting point holes in if required I suppose so as it would fit say a mountney boss.

Great link ta The wheel I want to use has the thick 48 spline boss fitted and was on my race Mini of years ago and as you know , won't fit my '84 110 It would probably fit the later ones. Thing is, what pattern did B/L use ? ....they usually mixed and matched parts so what B/L cars had the thinner shaft and 36 splines, that would be interesting to know ? Need a nerd again

I suppose that's a bit spendy but I want one Are all Defenders the same spline size or did they change them at all? I see a lot of Mini bits in the cockpit that's why I thought that the steering wheel would fit - but it dont

Thanks, I've decide on MXC 8282/MXC 8283 for front bottom hinges This 110 is turning into a project

Need a boss for my three spoke ally leather rim wheel . Felt sure it would fit as it was off a Mini (british leyland) but too big. Any one know which cars steering wheels will fit the landy or where I can get a cheap boss.?

My chassis No dosen't have any Ws in it it's SALLDHAH*AA****** that's why I can't get a part No then Am I right in thinking that I would be pre WA on that chassis No ?

Looking for door hinges for my 1984 defender 110 Paddocks say pre W***** or post W***** what do the numbers mean and how do they relate to my landy ? I need two front bottom hinges and one rear door bottom hinge for my supposidly in very good order 110

Mine suffered this problem and I ended up using silicone sealant to weld it shut as it was forever dripping in my lap. Never did find the cause of the leak spelying edit

V8 ran brilliant yesterday when I moved it but today it only runs on four on petrol. Switch to LPG and all is fine so I suspect a carb problem. Any carb problems like this common to LPG/petrol V8 engines and any quick fixes as it's parked due to lack of time to problem solve

Could be wires on starter solenoid wrong or wires on key start on wrong terminals. Switching off power to bits and bobs when turned to crank position. just a thought

Ever thought of buying a new filter

Used to do that with my Ariel Arrow (two stroke twin), especially after a day at Oulton Park

I'll put the Castrol 'R' back under the bench then

That'll be both front wheels pointing forward then

I bought a 'Trackrite' thingy a few years ago which does a good job and saved me having to go with theses lazer things which are not always acurate if the opperator dosen't know what he's at . Not tried it with the Landy yet but I'm sure it'll work. What is the setting by the way ?

I have some old Castrol R going spare from previous racing days and wondered if it would do the V8 any harm. It is the carb one and an '84 model so if I give it a good flush out what do ya recon ? it would save buying some for the time being and I could charge people to sniff my exhaust.

How do you know that your ball hitch is in the middle ? I've never had one yet that is dead centre.. Edit.... won't make any difference will it

You're right of course. What I didn't think about was the repositioning of the rear suspension twas just a thought as I really wanted a 90 but as you say the 110 is far better for towing and making a brew as there is more space I've seen 90 galv chassis for 650 quid and the cheapest 110 was I think 17/1800 so that's what got me thinking.

Thought it wasn't that easy I'll get some oil on the chassis and preserve it for as long as poss.

Try testing the heater (glow) plugs , it may be time to put new ones in.

Can't see any difference between them at the front until you get beyond the doors (mine's a two door 110) just a matter of loosing bits rather than adding to it as far as I can see. or am I wrong

Just having a think and wondering that if....no when my 110 chassis rots away would it be possible to buy a 90 chassis and stick all my bits on it. Bodywork at the back end would have to be shortened and back prop I suppose but would it be possible ? Cant afford a 110 gal chassis but could afford a 90 galv chassis something for me to think about..

I would be interested to see how a side exit is routed and box placed etc as I want to add one to my 110 but as a DIY project.

I had a similar problem recently, sounded like two dry shims spinning together and it came and went. Like discojmz says, mine was prop U J , the G/Box end was totally shot and bone dry.

Located a recon diff for 139 quid outright, no exchange so I'm thinking it's not worth risking a used one. Mine's an '84 and not sure of the mileage but there is a LOT of play in the diff, about 25+ degrees There's one on fleabay at 20 quid so I might risk 40 (as he says it is good) before I commit to a recon one. Inverness ....That's a long way up from here . But thanks for the offer