Landowner

Would upside down chequer plate be too slippery, that is what I was thinking of doing.

Nice S1 Ours got binned

Hammocks!!

Mounting must have 'dropped' so no worries, I'll line it up/turn it when it's on. Wish I'd bought two new one now, just bought one for the nearside which seperated when I jacked up too far Edit.. J D 's kickin in now

But maybe mine is stretched out of shape , for instance, if you unbolted yours and turned it through 180 derees, would it still line up with the hole in the chassis mount bracket? Mine doesn't, there is about an inch difference in the threaded bits' position when turned round. Looks like I will have to leave it loose and see if it fits, I was trying to get everything ready just to pop it on and bolt up Thanks for taking the time to photo it BTW

Transfering the mounting from the old transfer box to the 'new' transfer box. Took it off and went to put it on the new box and forgot which way round it was ............ I put it on this way (in pic) but sods law says it's wrong. If I turn it round then the threaded bit is about an inch further back. The pic is looking at the underside with right being to the rear of the landy. Which way please ??

That looks to be a similar product, I wonder what the price difference is ?

Those rods will melt on the heated ally repair patch or whatever when the temp is right and not before so you just keep the rod out of the flame and when it melts on to hot workpiece you are ready. Easy

I think you should try the 'Frost' welding rods as mentioned earlier further up. I have made professional welds with them and it is easy. The weld is very strong and you can easily see the weld metal flowing into the job, ideal for filling in missing bits of bodywork or welding ally brackets on. You can even repair broken bellhousings and manifolds with them.

I can get 45/50 mpg if I drive at 45mph on a run and 30+ round town but I'm cheating because I have a straight through exhaust, cold air feed to inlet and the engine is in a super sleek (compared to landy) aerodynamic body. It is heavier though at just a shade below 2000kg with fuel and driver

My last fill up worked out at 41 mpg and that's with 50% trailer work.

Frost.co.uk do a kit for welding ally and it's easy. http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?cat...rostCat=Welding item W150 All you need is a butain blow lamp (blow torch) . I've welded all sorts with it and it's a good strong weld, follow the instructions and be patient and you WILL make a good job. There is enough in the kit to weld quite a bit so it's relatively cheap.

Superb information, thank you Tried 30 psi but a little hard so dropped to 25 but been off the road since I changed them 3 weeks ago. Should have the seat box finished tomorrow and the T/Box back in by Friday, then only the front diff, a swivel bearing and swivel seals to do, Oh and bodge the bulkhead up for a while (I'll fit a new one next year) Then back on road and next job is the exhaust. Not bad for a landy that was suppose to be one of the best in the north west, I've not done a thousand miles in it since buying and have been towed home twice

Looks like standard ones then when I can get em off to swap somebody. Thanks for replies , very helpful

What about standard 90 ones, are they softer ?

I imagine this has been discussed before but here goes. I need to soften the bone shattering ride the 110 as it has heavy duty springs on. The vehicle doesn't go off road and is used tarmac only and I'm not fussed about body roll so can I fit softer springs and which ones should I use please. The softer the better as it's loosening all me teeth

point taken The boys I know who want K+N (I'm 60 BTW) really want the induction noise, I've given it to a few of them by drilling two inch holes in the plastic air box which sounds in most cases , better than a posh filter. I want induction noise and filtration and the spare filters I have seemed like a good idea, ....Think I'll flog them off and have another think

Mine doesn't get hot very quick either even after putting in new thermostat. It does run just below normal after a few miles though. I think it's something to do with the thermal efficiency of the engine, produces power rather than heat, intercooler is a good idea, keep a good clean air filter, unrestricted (straight through) exhaust and cold air feed and feel the power when that turbo comes in.

I hear what you are saying and the k+n idea was , to me , an easy option to get shut of that big oval box rattling about on top of the engine and at the same time renew the paper filters which are past their best. the original filter box also draws hot air in off the top of the engine and is in the hot airstream from the rad. I intend to give the engine a cold air feed from somewhere (I had a pipe from the wing vent thing as a stopgap but it was very small) I have never bought a K+N and have been racing cars at pauper level for years, my theory is that the only reason a K+N flows better than a standard filter is because it is derestricted by removing the airbox, not sure of its filtering qualities as I've never tested one but word on the street was that they are the mutts nuts . I used to use a filter from a bigger engine and give it a cold air feed and always got good results. Can't do that with the V8 as there is nowhere to put it without cluttering up the engine bay. I once used the space where the heater was on a Mini for a big filter and cold air was fed in via the fresh air system then to the carb. So what to do? it's a bit difficult with having two carbs to feed and having the gas as well so have to keep the 'C' shaped ally tubes, would like some induction noise so air filter box is out unless I use a plastic one from a big car and drill big holes in it but then rigging up the feeds on a budget is difficult. I have two big cone K+Ns in the garage which will fit (one off a Caterham and another)and have thought of heatshield and cold air feed, just filter efficiency now that is bugging me after the info off here. What to do.

Was repeating information I got via U.S. off road videos from the eighties. Maybe misinformed then.. I'll get me coat

K+N filters better than standard and the off road dune buggy thingys in the states swear by them for filtering the dust out. They are noisey because the silencing effect of the original air box is removed.

Thanks, are they very tight and can it be done with the box on the floor? if so I'll do it Tuesday.

Going to do the oil seals in my 'new' transfer box. Now should I wait until the box is in the landy and what size socket will I need please.

What size cherry bomb and where is it? I mean how long is it and is it at the end of the pipe or in the middle ? And does it sound nice or just loud Ta.

What is it like with K+N filters on a V8 with S.U. carbs ?? Is it loud or is it just a nice noise or is it the same as with the standard air box ?