Mark Adams

As Tanuki says, it will be chucking unburned fuel through the exhaust which will also cause the Cat to burn out so I would not leave it too long if this is the case. This is why I would get a leak down test done to find out what the problem is caused by.

Did they do a leak down test, as this would at least tell you where the compression is being lost before taking anything apart?

Thank you for the reply, I took the reading using my Fluke scopemeter as I was hoping to be able to measure the duration of the wave form but unfortunatly I just have a fixed voltage of approx 845mv. I scoped the injectors and the pulse width did change when opening the throttle, if you WOT then the lambda signal also drops suddenly (as it should) and goes straight back to 845mv. I had the lambda sensor on one channel and injectors 1/3 on the other channel. I can see the pintle hump close on the voltage trace and open on the current trace. When the pipe is removed slightly the Lambda sigal drops to approx 200mv, the MAP signal changes and the pulse width widens until the car eventually cuts out. I rechecked the MAP signal on a drive up the hill and when idle and it gave the same results. I perform all of the above tests with both the old and new ECU and the results were the same.

Hi, The service was very quick, I received the test ECU today, I plugged it in and drove the car to warm it then retested it, unfortunatly it has not changed. Lambda sensor still fixed high. Thank you Mark.

Ally V8, Sorry for the delayed reply. Thank you for the kind offer, unfortunatly I am based in Wales just outside Swansea and I am not planning a trip in your direction for a while. Be interested to know if Allcar still have the service you mention? What would happen if I just swapped the ECU? Would nothing work I guess due to the Immobiliser? Mark.

unfortunately I dont have one I can just swap to try it. I would need to buy one to try it. will it just work if I swap it out or will I need to take it to a main dealer to get it re-coded? Mark.

Not sure if this is going to help but I captured some live data (taken just after starting but o2 sensor had warmed up). You can see it goes into closed loop them back to Open, I have shown Injector Advance, the Injector Dead time is a constant -0.6 which does not seem right.

Went out early this morning to get a new NTK O2 sensor as I was informed that the one on the car is the original sensor so it will be a bit slow to give good readings even when working properly. I removed the old one with no problem, but cant get the new one to fit, the fins on the sensor seem to catch on the inside of the exhaust manifold, if it is forced in it closes all the openings. I noticed on the one that come out that the slits were hardly open. Unfortunatly due to the location of the sensor I cant see what is causing the problem. Has anyone else come across this same issue? Is it just a build up of rust on the inside of the manifold? I would rather not remove the manifold as I know what the nuts/studs will be like and it always turns out to be a pig of a job as everything rusts solid. The sensor would be far better with holes to sample the gas rather than these open slits. Any idea?

Ally V8, The Map sensor reading where between 20 - 30 Kpa under normal load and went to 98 Kpa when under load. I tested it while driving the car up and down hill.

Hi AllyV8, I used an SP ACR4, I took it for a test drive with the unit connected and displaying live data, I noticed that the Lambda reading mainly stayed at 902mv. But also noticed that the car was in Open loop on the whole journey (as you mentioned). The car starts as normal in open loop, then went into Closed loop but soon went back to open loop and stayed there. Exactly as you mentioned. I have always taken the approach of only replacing parts that I have tested to be faulty so I know what has caused a problem before replacing any parts. It is helps, I own a 4 gas analyser, the SP ACR4 and a 2 channel scope, fuel pressure gauge and other test equipment.

Hi, I have just had a friend bring his S reg 1.8 Freelander round to me with the problem of it running rich. I initially checked the O2 sensor and it is fixed at 900mv initially thinking that it was faulty I disconnected a vacuum pipe and the o2 sensor responded and gave a reading of 200mv. On WOT it also responds so I feel the sensor is fine. No DTC's Car generally runs fine, he tells me it also has a slightly rough idle when warm so I checked the CTS but it is fine (voltage decreases as temperature increases) but this may be a separate problem. Air filter is new, recent oil change. Connected a vacuum gauge and got a steady reading of 18 " mercury at idle (got the same reading from live data of the MAP sensor), so does not seem to have any vacuum leaks, sprayed carb cleaner in the normal places to confirm and no increase in RPM. Got new platinum plugs about 1000 miles ago when I removed them they are all clean and look normal (no deposits). Fuel pressure is 3.5 bar while engine is running. Very similar problem to what I had on my own freelander, but can't figure out the cause of this one.

Posted on your other thread: I would start with a disco 1 to see how you get on with it, they are much cheaper to buy than the disco 2 so you can get a better maintained car for your money. Do you have somewhere under cover to work on the car? I would also learn how to MIG weld if you can't already as the main problem will be rust, in areas like the boot floor, inner/outer sill. I would also check the rear door hinges as due to the weight of the wheel on the door they do suffer. They can suffer with overheating due to the rad being pasts its best or viscous fan coupling not working but I would say that if it comes to it the cylinder head gasket is one of the easiest I have ever changed. As said above, you need to check the transfer box is working as if they are not used they will get very stiff, oil leak can also be a problem. The engines are pretty bullet proof but if abused the gearboxe can be a little crunchy (technical term). Another thing to check is that the heater blower works when the car is hot as it is a long (not overly difficult) job to do as you need to remove the complete dash to get as the matrix, garages will charge a fortune due to the time it takes. They are easiy cars to work on as they are a simple design with no complicated electrics and lots of space to work. Once you have purchased one they main thing you will need to do is make sure the engine and other oils are changed regularly ( about every 5K for the engine) Hope this helps.

I would start with a disco 1 to see how you get on with it, they are much cheaper to buy than the disco 2 so you can get a better maintained car for your money. Do you have somewhere under cover to work on the car? I would also learn how to MIG weld if you can't already as the main problem will be rust, in areas like the boot floor, inner/outer sill. I would also check the rear door hinges as due to the weight of the wheel on the door they do suffer. They can suffer with overheating due to the rad being pasts its best or viscous fan coupling not working but I would say that if it comes to it the cylinder head gasket is one of the easiest I have ever changed. As said above, you need to check the transfer box is working as if they are not used they will get very stiff, oil leak can also be a problem. The engines are pretty bullet proof but if abused the gearboxe can be a little crunchy (technical term). Another thing to check is that the heater blower works when the car is hot as it is a long (not overly difficult) job to do as you need to remove the complete dash to get as the matrix, garages will charge a fortune due to the time it takes. They are easiy cars to work on as they are a simple design with no complicated electrics and lots of space to work. Once you have purchased one they main thing you will need to do is make sure the engine and other oils are changed regularly ( about every 5K for the engine) Hope this helps.

What do you want to use the car for, will it be mainly off roading, where you will be adding lots of mods or just as a nice study family car that will stay on the road 99.9% of the time? Mark

I do not take the FL on the snow as the prop was removed before I purchased it, I have the prop and was told it was only taken off to get extra MPG but I don't trust that it, I do not want to reconnect it and then completly break the IRD. Do you know any way of testing the VCU, IRD and Bearings? The main reason I want to change the FL 1.8 is because it just seems very under powered, I have spend quite a while testing everything, compression, fuel pressure, spark, etc and have a scope and SP ACR4 fault code reader and have checked live data for MAP Lambda etc and all seem OK but it still struggles to get up some of the welsh hills just carrying me (and I am not over weight before anyone says anything ) If I could solve this then I may keep it. I do not know if all the 1.8 FL are under powered or just mine.

That is an interesting opinion, Ally V8, is seems that you are going against everyone else with that opinion. In my experience any of the FL engines are more reliable than the rest of the car, it seems that most of the problems are with the transmission and 4x4 system which has not changed in any of them. Which would you say has better MPG the L series or the TD4?

I have a Ring smart charger, good charger but the battery clamps are not fantastic quality. It is fully automatic and has a battery recondition function which has extended the life of some dodgy batteries. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Smart-Battery-Charger-Ring-RSC16/dp/B000VZAX7O

Well is seems like the TD4 is the one to go for. I would have thought that the 1.8 petrol would tow a small trailer with only a modest amount of weight but it struggles to get just me up the hills most of the time. I initally thought the car had a fault but everything has been checked and is fine so I can only assume the the car is generally underpowered (never driven one before this one). I am not concerned about doing work of the car as I have a workshop well stocked with tools and I have always done my own maintenance. Mark.

It would be cheaper to get the fuel pressure tested (if you know someone who have a tester). You can replace the regs in the pump, but if the pressure is down I would change the whole thing. Easy to change. Mark.

Great comments, I would love to know where you got a Freelander TD4 2001 for under 2K from I can't find them for less than 3K. I do like the Disco as it will just go anywhere and I dont need to worry about it getting scratched or getting stuck. Mark.

Have had similar problems in the same with a failing fuel pump, have you checked the fuel pressure? Maybe just enough to start it but not enough to keep it running. May also be wiring problem with Idle control valve. Mark.

Just to update the topic. I changed the oil and filter with 15/40 mineral oil and changed the oil pressure sensor at the same time. I have now driven it a little and can say that I have not seen the light come on since the sensor/oil change. Thank you

Hi, I currently own a Freelander 1 1.8 Petrol and a Discovery 1 2.5 TD. I would like to sell both of these cars and get one car that will do the job of them both. I currently need a general fairly economic runabout as well as a car that will tow a small trailer (with about 12 straw bales in) The Discovery will tow most things no problem but is not great on fuel and the freelander has less pulling power than a slug. I was hoping that a 2.0l diesel freelander 1 would be suitable for both tasks but has never driven one. I have always liked the look of the freelander so it wins on that point and it is fairly comfortable but it needs more power. Any opinions? Mark.

I have just got it mot'd after sitting for a long time so the oil has been in the car for about a year but only done about 1000 miles in that time. I am going to change it with 15/40 mineral oil as it will need a change, I will change the oil pressure switch at the same time. Do you recommend a particular brand of Oil pressure tester? I do not want to buy one that does not have the correct adaptor. Mark.

It is a 300tdi.