tinker

here you go.. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread....ght=shaved+diff

did this one with a roller, finish was good, it was the same stuff they repaint buses with, (worked at a bus depot)

i would have thought that when your mate took a fag break, if the gun cotents went to jelly, it is likely to have been good ol dont bother rubbing down it will self level two pack... as for your needs if it was you shouldnt have any problems paint over it with nothing more than a decent rub down just to key the new paint, i would use the synthetic type paint, easy to use and clean up, as for the drying time between coats, well really depends on the temperature, its similar to spraying with cellulose, but take a week or so to fully cure. airfed mask is always the best but you will be fine with the normal filter type ones, just dont be tight and wait for the element to stop letting air through, change it regulary or you will choke...haha and we need pictures... heres one i did

i have done and owned a few, daihatsu 2.8 td is a good easy fit with good pulling power, good economy perkins 4236 3.9Litre, good torque and pulling power, bit limited for road use as it does`nt rev that high, although if you tweek the pump you get an extra 500rpm..its a heavy engine, very reliable though and will last forever! GMC v8 diesel, i had one of these in my rangerover for years, it was great, its heavy! but will pull a house down, so much low down grunt, i could pull from almost stand still in top, was great on fuel as its not working that hard pulling a rrc, have to treat the rr running gear with care though as it will destroy the gearbox diffs halfshafts etc, best fitted in auto form so drivetrain doesnt have such a hard time. if you change to diesel make sure you get the torque converter to suit your auto.

thanks for the info, not sure what i`m going to do with it all yet.....

so with different ratios, i guess that would lock the centre diff quicker when off road..

Hi Guys, i was rummaging around the yard and discovered some stonefield axles that i had saved, "may come in useful i thought" what i want to know is where there any lockers or limited slip diffs fitted, would have a look but too cold to start getting the spanners out today! any ideas chaps? they came off a p3000 found the gearbox, transferbox as well, are spares available, looking at the axles they look like dana 60/salisbury/hurth type. thanks

well just checked when he returned, it has lost all the water from expansion tank so........headgasket

he has just been for a ride around in it, he says the temp is rising above where it normally is....head gasket me thinks??

Ok chaps, posting this fo ra friend with no internet...yet! the heater on his 300tdi has started to blow cold, it happened after a driving home, he said it was all nice n warm, the temp gauge then started to rise, then dropped down agian, it did`nt reach the red, there was some evidence of water loss from the left hand side of the engine compartment, looked like it was from around the expansion bottle to me. We checked to see if the water pump is pushing water, ie left cap off and revved the engine to see if the water rose, it did. the water pipes are all warm, there not rock hard when engine at operating temp and no oil in water, there is no sign of air in system either, the heater pipes are both warm also...the temperature is stable now as well, so im thinking its maybe the heater matrix. I told him to remove the pipes and back flush the matrix, it may have a blockage, then again both pipes are warm!! Any thought guys?

anybody got or know of any volvo portals for sale or any mogs, or even dana 60, need a pair of nice strong axles for next project.... Ta

just seen this, having been in iraq for last 7 months, but donated now.

does it click when you press the switch, if it does it may just be stuck, take off the door card and give it a bash with a hammer, not too hard though...this happened on my mates RRC couple of quick cracks whislt pressing the switch had it moving again, tis only a temparary "fix", other than that i a replacement motor

thanks guys, i will be getting on of the inverter types.

Ok chaps, anyone recommend a decent plasma cutter, i dont need a massive industrial sized one, but i need to be able to cut up to around 10mm with a decent cut time.... cant be thousands of ££££ either, i`m from yorkshire you know!! Ta

Haha, i know, hope to see you in around 6 weeks mate. photos are great, looks like everyone had blast.

count me in, although i am still in iraq, i should be back in december...i will have to build my truck first as well. question fro you neil, if rear steer is not allowed, what if your truck has it..can we just disable it? also, anyone got any mog axles for sale?? ta

WOW what a line up....wish i could be there this yr, (still in Iraq) have fun guys...looking forward to the photos.

oops what happened there??? anyway as it says "any left"????

hi chris, i have been thinking of doing something like this, gona be doing some modifications at tong soon...

sweet..

the standard stuts should cope well with the alloy ones, i have two to fit soon, so will let you know how i get on...the only thing i dont like is the handle, i`m thinking of modifying to get a neater look, something like a normal hatchback car handle..

header tank is top left of cage, above the radiator. will try the circulator system though. ta

i run a standard rrc radiator in the back, mounted high on the cage running the standard water pump, seems fine but air is the problem, its a bitch to bleed....but i am considering fitting a pump i got off a volvo b10 bus!, the reason being is sometimes my fans come on when the engine is hot but switched off, with the possible outcome of draining my battery, so i figure if i pump the water around for a while after the engine swithches off, my fans wont run as long...