Anglo-Frenchman

Thanks Jim. I'll check it out and get back if any further guidance needed. Gérard

Thanks very much for the advice Jim. Sorry to be a bit thick but where is the ECU and should I observe any precautions when disconnecting/re-connecting it & the battery. I have had loads of Tdi's but the Td5 is a total blank to me! I wondered also about the fuel filter/s and if water can get into them - what do you think? Thanks again for your time. Gérard

Hi Jim and thanks for the reply. What/where am I listening for exactly? The fault is intermittent so does that make a difference. Gérard

Hi, Posted this on the Disco forum but it may be an issue that affects Td5 Defenders also. Whilst doing about 50/60kph, my 2001 Td5 Disco simply cut out. No warning lights came on or anything just simply died. I turned the key and it re-started straight away but the problem persisted with varying amounts of time/distance between cut-outs. Checked under the bonnet but nothing obvious. Engine idles with no problems. I have read about oil in the ECU connector or something similar and wondered if this might be the cause. Otherwise could it be the immobiliser operating randomly? I'm not much cop at electrickery and gizmology so any adivce greatly appreciated. Heres me wishing I'd kept by dependable Defender 200tdi..................

Hi, I have owned my Td5 2001 DII for the past 15,000km without so much as a peep and been very pleased with it overall. Today however, I was just driving along and the engine totally cut out - no warning lights, no nothing. I re-started it and it drove a bit further and the same thing happened. There is fuel in the tank. It continued to happen for a further 4 or 5 times during a journey of approx 3km. It did not happen on the return journey but I kept my speed down which may had a bearing. The only thing I can add are that there is a bit of a rattle from the motor the split second before it cuts out and last night I noticed that the little blinking alarm light on the dash was flashing really fast when I switched off and took out the keys though it returned to its slow regular rhythm when I locked it. I feel sure that I have read something about this type of problem on the forum before but wonder if any of you diagnostics gurus out there can point to a possible cause.

Thanks very much to all. You've saved me a huge amount of work.

Hi, I want to use Firefox instead of IE -can someone tell me an easy way to transfer all my favourites across please? Thanks

Hi, Thanks for the reply. Where exactly are two pozi screws located?

Hi, Anyone know how to access/replace the lights inside the speedo/rev binnacle on Disco II and what bulbs they are? Merci Ged

Thanks to all. My biggest gripe is that you simply cannot communicate with them. It just a torrent of standard replies and no attempt to actually read and address the main issue - their mistake. I suppose its symptomatic of these massive corporations where the customer actually comes last. Rant over!

Hi, Just wanted some advice. I advertised my 110 on Eblag before Christmas on one of its 5p listing days. The thing ultimately sold but Ebay are trying to sting me for around 100GBP. We have been exchanging emails for about 6 months but they do not acknowldge anything that I have said and there is no apparent way of getting through to them by phone. I am at my wits end with frustration - each email they send comes from a different person and follows the same standard format and there seerms to be no communication between their staff. Have any of you had similar problems with these fools and how did you resolve them. Thanks, Ged

Thanks for the replies. My job is on the north island in central Auckland but looking to commute from the 'burbs by the beach. I did wonder about the whole LHD thing so that may be the clincher and welcome any other views. Ged

Thanks or that Tony. Having done a bit of research it seems that the main concern is that the vehicle is VERY clean so that nasty bugs etc don't get a free passage into the islands - there was talk about renewing tyres before the trip. Ged

Hi, After having received a very good job offer we are looking to emigtate from France to NZ later this year. I am currently contemplating taking my Td5 Disco with me and although its a LHD, it is a good car and would be easy to shove in a container for the journey. Does anyone know if it is a complicated issue to import a car to NZ or any likely issues? Thanks Ged

I have had a look and the leak is definitely coming from the rear of the water pump where back-plate bolts on. I have bunged in some Radweld to see if that may buy me some time but not sure if I need to replace the pump or indeed if its possible to overhaul it.

Thanks David. I agree with you that it is amazing and also very helpful to be able to posts pictures onto the site. The picture does not show the leaking pipe by the drain plug - that is elswhere and not in the photo but I (stupidly) neglected to make that clear in my original post. The picture is taken looking up through the engine bay whilst laying beneath the front lhs of the sump. You should be able to see the pinky/yellow staining of the coolant gathering on the bottom of the sump in the foreground while in the background (to the rhs of the large pipe with clamp around) you should be able to see some wetness by a fixing bolt on the underside of the water pump. Hope that this clarifies matters. Ged

Hi, following my earlier posts about coolant loss I managed to remove the engine undershield so as to be able to get a better look at what is going on. It seems that I may have mis-diagnosed the problem wonder if anyone can offer some advice. From the attached photo you can see that the coolant is actually running down the lhs of the engine and onto the sump which is now quite stained with anti-freeze. In the background of the photo you can see that one of the bolts on what I assume to be the rear of the water pump is quite wet, and looks to be the source of the leak. There is also a small amount of cooland seeping through one of the other metal pipes on the underside of the engine close to the coolant drain plug due (I believe) to corrosion. Question: 1/ Are the water pumps prone to leakage and what is the best way to get to the rear of the pump in order to repair it. It looks pretty inaccessible either from below or above. 2/ Is this leakage likely to symptomatic of another problem such as pressurisation of the system due a blown head gasket for example? If so is there any way to check this at home or is it a garage job? Thanks for your patience! Ged

Cheers Les. BTY, on the bottle it says add to the radiator but unlike my old Tdi, I can't see any removable plug in the top of the rad through which to add it. Can it be added directly to the header or is there some reason why not. Thanks, Ged

Can I put Radweld in a Td5's cooling system or will it do anything nasty?

Thanks all. I have now removed the wretched thing in one piece thus: (by the way, Woff thanks for the flash of inspiration) Jacked front of chassis up as far as I dare to create space above axle - removed front end of front prop shaft - undid panel screws and slid (kicked) it out - re-secured front end of prop (with new ny-locks) - burnt Haynes manual - lowered jack - went to have a bath! Thanks

Cheers Woff - sounds as though its going to be the merry sound of hacksaw-against-plastic. Incidentally I have a theory that this undershield thing is simply LR's way to hide all the leaks from the sump/transfer box/gearbox etc and pretend that the build quality has improved! Ged

Big hammer or a saw is definately 'Plan B' but I'm trying to be mature about it before throwing my dummy out!

I'm shortly going to start the replacement of my leaking cooling pipes (see earlier thread) but thought I'd prepare the way by removing the plastic undershield. Well, I'd reckoned without those nice folk at LR who in their wisdom have made it (seemingly) impossible to remove without removing the front steering assembly, front axle ....... what bl#^@dy pain in the rear end. Am I being especially thick here or is there a simple way to get this piece of cr*p off so that I can actually access the underside of the engine bay? I know that a previous correspondent said he had had to cut it in half to get it out but surely that can't be right? Those helpful fellows at Haynes state 'remove the front prop-shaft, undo the undershield retaining screws and remove.' what a load of rubbish. The wretched thing snags on about a dozen other things befire getting anywhere near the prop-shaft! Aaaaaaarrrghhhh!!

Just ordered all the coolant pipes as a kit from my French supplier €135 inc VAT = GBP 97.00 so quite pleased with that. Thanks to all who helped. Ged

Thanks Lynall, but I don't actually think that this is the same part as Wolf's. Ged