[Do I need to separate engine/gearbox again?]

It was definitely a struggle to get engine onto the gearbox. Needed to pull it in on the bolts.

Tend to find the angle of the gearbox and engine not quite a natural alignment.

Simon..

[Do I need to separate engine/gearbox again?]

I’m thinking it’s not hydraulic at this point since none of that was touched during the recent work.

Wondering if the clutch plate got damaged during refit? 

I’d like to think that the clutch plate is on the correct way around. 

[Do I need to separate engine/gearbox again?]

Hi Folks.,

Put the engine back in and fired it up this evening - Defender 110 300tdi. All good. However,

When the engine is running, it is not possible to put into gear. Trying into 1st (but not engaging) causes a slight movement forward.

When the engine is not running, it is possible to put into gear. Starting the engine causes it to lurch.

Seems to me that the clutch is stuck. Wondering if it got damaged when connecting engine back to the gearbox.

Thoughts on next steps of triage? Separating out to take a look is the obvious one but would rather consider other options first.

Thanks,

Simon...

[Thermostat sensor connector]

Hi Folks,

Defender 110 300 Tdi

The connector that goes onto the thermostat sensor at the RHS of the cylinder head (not the one on the top) - a single wire.

Anybody know where to source a connector? Got a new loom and the connector is too big for it. 

Thanks,

Simon...

[Wheels/axles/hubs - 110]

Excellent. Enjoy the new look.

[Wheels/axles/hubs - 110]

Hope you managed to source some Wolfs. I also had the same concerns over stud lengths. As per comments above, it's a standard LR factory setup. Cuffing high torque though 🙂

 

[Injection Pump Timing]

I've decide to stay at 1.40mm as do not want too many changes at once. 

[Injection Pump Timing]

Thanks for the replies. The EGR and the ECU which was under the middle seat have all been removed. In fact, all the associated cabling has also been removed.

 

[Injection Pump Timing]

HI Folks,

Finished fitting a new timing belt to our Defender 110 300 Tdi

Since the EGR has been removed, got me thinking about the exact timing of the FIP.

WSM states as below.

Injection timing............................................................... 1,54 mm lift at T.D.C.
Injection timing with electronic EGR ............................ 1,40 mm lift at T.D.C.

Does this mean that since the EGR has been removed, timing should now be adjusted to 1.54mm or not? Or is the pump different to non-EGR and should be left at 1.40mm

Would be interested in your thoughts.

Thanks,

Simon...

[Parcel tray pins]

Hi Folks,

Anybody know where these can still be sourced in grey?

Thanks,

Simon...

[Wheels/axles/hubs - 110]

I prefer the look of Wolfs. Avoids any spacer comedy too. 👍

[Tdi 30 amp fuse under center seat]

Hi Folks,

Wondering if folk can tell us what the 30 amp fuse under the front center seat protects on our 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi.

Failing to find by usual searches on internet.

Thanks,

Simon...

[300Tdi (hopefully) starting after 2 - 3 year lay-up; plus immobiliser question for a newbie]

Yep. Only considering a delete of the 10AS if is ever became a problem and not repairable/replaceable.

[300Tdi (hopefully) starting after 2 - 3 year lay-up; plus immobiliser question for a newbie]

In the back of my mind, always wondered what it might take to effectively delete the 10AS from the system. Especially if in the future it just simply misbehaves.

[Fitting front crank seals]

Hi Folks,

Planning on replacing the front cranks seals on our 300 Tdi.

That's both the inner crank and outer crank (front cover) as well as the front cam shaft seal.

Workshop manual states a list of specialist seal pushers.

Wondering how and what other folk have undertaken to fit these seals in the absence of these specialist LR tools. The seals are quite large and "normal" seal pushing kits/tools do not seem to fit the requirements.

Thanks,

Simon...

[300Tdi (hopefully) starting after 2 - 3 year lay-up; plus immobiliser question for a newbie]

It can be started with doors open. The 10AS needs to be not in an "alarm/immobilised" state for the engine to start. Suspect the most important one being the key fob sensor.

[Rear Crank Seal Gasket Removal]

Hi Folks,

In the process of replacing the rear crank seal on our 300 Tdi

Looks like the original seal - the one with a separate gasket.

The gasket mostly come off but a stubborn trace of it remains on the block.

Any tips for how best to proceed? Plastic scraper is not getting in there enough and I'm hesitate to use a metal blade.

Thanks,

Simon...

[Throttle cable adjustement]

Hi Steve,

Awesome. Thanks,

Simon...

[Throttle cable adjustement]

Hi Folks,

Looking to get the throttle cable adjusted correctly on our 110 300 Tdi.

From the WSM:

1. Slacken throttle cable adjustment ferrule.
2. Hold throttle lever in fully closed position.
3. Adjust outer cable, by rotating ferrule, to give 1,57 mm (1/16 in) of deflection in the inner cable.
4. Check that throttle opens fully when the throttle is depressed.

On step 3, is this deflection referring to that laterally along the length of the cable, i.e. the small amount of slack before the throttle on the FIP moves? As opposed to any side ways play in the cable which seems a fair amount to me.

Thanks,

Simon...

[Torsional Vibration Damper - 300 Tdi]

Hi Folks,

The flinger on the rear of our torsional vibration damper has seen better days. Think it would be worth either replacing the flinger on the existing damper or obtaining a new damper and flinger.

Wondering if folk could share any experiences of replacing/fitting a flinger to a torsional vibration damper.

Thanks,

Simon...

[300 Tdi Engine Removal]

Thanks folks. Some great ideas.

Will hopefully get some more time on Wednesday.

[300 Tdi Engine Removal]

Hi Folks,

Looking for some bright ideas in order to support the bell housing/gearbox when removing our 300 Tdi engine.

Challenge is that we do not have much room back/forth in the garage when the door is closed. As such, there is not enough room to hoist the engine and extract forwards through the radiator space without hitting the back wall.

Thinking that if we were able to support the bell housing/gearbox while still allowing the Defender to be pushed back and forth, we'd then be able to lift the engine, push the Defender back, get it onto an engine stand, move sideways and then push the Defender back in again to allow us to close the garage door.

Thanks in advance,

Simon...

[Front Timing Case - 300 Tdi]

Hi Folks,

Removing the front timing case on our 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi.

One of the corners of the pulley flange has split. Wondering if there is a replacement part available?

Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Simon...

[spotlight wiring]

Diagram looks good to me. Suggest it is time for Mr. Multimeter 🙂

[Handbrake switch and warning light]

Some pictures and write up on our blog which may help:

https://pellylandroverdefender.blogspot.com/p/new-year-2020.html