simonpelly
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Posts posted by simonpelly
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14 hours ago, Northwards said:
Can I confirm we just bin all the wiring/relay and other associated gubbins? If the wiring to the injector pump is unnecessary, then the cables and relays can just be completely removed?
For our 300 Tdi, the following was disconnected:
- Cable to the EGR valve solenoid
- White wire on the alternator
- Throttle sensor and connector
- Thermostat connector on top of the engine bock
- Connector to EGR actuator
- ECU and 3 pin socket (under middle seat)
Currently have them all tied out of the way. At some point will actually remove them fully from the harness. Did not want to permanently remove all at once in case I misunderstood the wiring diagram.
Simon...
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Oh no! Another one to add to the Christmas wish list. Liking this idea.
Simon..
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Thanks Western!
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Got there in the end.
Ended up having to grind down one of my 13mm spanners to get access.
Also used a pair of lock nuts on the end of the thread to stop it spinning when adjusting.
Took much longer than originally envisaged (as always). An experience to reflect on every time I change gears.
Simon...
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The fins on our original radiator shed themselves off onto the garage floor when removing it when getting the engine out 🙂
Simon...
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Thanks Western. That might explain it and hopefully that is indeed the case.
I ordered and have just fitted BTP2275 to my 1997 300 Tdi (VA*****) - Did not realise until noticed the other day there was part number PCC500170
It all fits and looks identical to my old one that we removed.
Simon...
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On our 300Tdi, even when the spigot is fitted and flush with the front of the crank, there is a finger width of recess before a shoulder. As such, the grease could get to work behind this.
Simon...
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Hi Folks,
Does anybody know the difference between BTP2275 and PCC500170?
Thanks,
Simon...
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Interesting!
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Loving the bread idea!!!
I can confirm that the grease method worked on our 300Tdi
New spigot bearing gently tapped back in.
Simon...
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Thanks Western.
School boy error on my part. Had not removed the protective cap from inside the dust cover. Will try later post breakfast.
Sometimes it's just more productive to have an early night rather than battling on!
Thanks again,
Simon...
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Hi Folks,
In the process of fitting a new slave cylinder to our 1997 110 300 Tdi
Doing this without any fluid lines attached to begin with. However, it's taking considerable force to get the slave cylinder face anywhere near the bell housing - around 1.5 cms away when using considerable udge.
Wondering if I'm doing some wrong? Any tips or suggestions would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Simon...
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Thanks Western.
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Hi Folks,
Hope you can help. Looking for some clarification on the WSM.
Adjusting the clutch pedal on our 300 Tdi
WSM suggests 140mm from floor (no mat) to bottom of pedal.
Is this with our without the rubber on the clutch pedal?
Thanks,
Simon...
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Needless to say, when putting back together, vacuum/blow out the bolt holes clean 🙂
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I can confirm it's not the transfer box speedo retaining clip. It's also not the clip that is attached to the clutch pedal box.
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Not seeing it on my old images. If you have a photo of your bracket above the alternator, that'd be awesome!
Thanks,
Simon...
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Ooooh! Forgot about the alternator. Will look back over some of my engine images.
Thanks for another target 🙂
Simon...
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Hi Folks,
In the box of bits yet to be added back on our rebuild, trying to identify and determine where this bracket should be located. Really should have made more notes on the strip down. Lesson learned.
Any thoughts?
This is not any of the two the are on the RHS of the engine block, not the one on the engine block hoist bracket and not the one on the flywheel bolt to engine block.
Thanks,
Simon...
Defender 1997 110 300 Tdi
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Thanks paime!
Simon...
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I feel your suffering.
When putting back our fuel tank (1997 110 300Tdi), ended up needing the help on my son.
On my back, using knees to push tank upwards and trying not to curse as my 13 year fiddled with various bolts.
Had a little bit of extra reach with the fuel line to the top of the tank by removing it from its clips on the chassis. Even then, had to balance it on some wooden blocks and then nudge them out of the way - on my back!
The fuel sender and line to the side of the tank was fitted afterwards.
Think I would have had to get very creative to do this by myself.
Simon...
P.S. Ensuring there is no fuel in the tank clearly reduces the weight!
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Thanks Peaklander...
Also found this 🙂
https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-1996-300tdi/C812
Thanks,
Simon...
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Wondering how best to go via clean metal. Wondering if clean metal on the bolt head/washer and outside of the chassis rail and clean metal clip/washer/nut on the inside is sufficient.
This would save having to take back to metal on the cross member and inside of the chassis.
Or just bite the bullet, take back to clean metal around the area of the bolt on the cross member and inside of the chassis.
Or do both - best of both.
Probably over thinking this - as usual!
Thanks,
Simon...
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Hi Folks,
Believe that this clip on the earth feed from the battery needs to be attached to the bolt that supports the gearbox cross member. All good there.
However, wondering if this is considered as an earth point to the chassis? If so, this would suggest that the clip, bolt, cross member and chassis would need to be taken back to metal for electrical contact?
That said, the cable the does proceed to the transfer box where it would have a bond there.
More thoughts from the collective wisdom of this forum please 🙂
Many Thanks in advance,
Simon...
Defender 110, 300 Tdi, 1997
Dirty Inlet Manifold - 300Tdi
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
One for the future - October for me.
That said, I would argue that since removing the EGR and cleaning up manifolds, cylinder head refurb, etc... it runs cleaner than ever.
Simon...