simonpelly
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Posts posted by simonpelly
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Other than different light lamp options, upgrading the wiring (and avoiding routing via the switch in the steering column) can improve the overall result too.
https://pellylandroverdefender.blogspot.com/p/headlights.html
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@Paul C Thanks for the links. Suspect the one sourced from Australia is closer to home for you. 👍
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@Paul C Thanks. I assumed also that it was there to prevent wear on the bracket from movement of the alternator. I've managed to successfully fit the old one to the new bracket.
It no longer seems possible to source genuine new brackets. I've also not seen any manufacturer/SKU that has this fitted (OEM or pattern).
If you have a link to one where it's fitted it would be interesting for sure. Thanks!
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Hi Folks,
With some very careful use of a Dremel, managed to extract the spacer by sacrificing further support bracket material around the hole.
Not seen this as an identifiable part which can be purchased. Thoughts?
Some images of its dimensions in case a new one needed to be fashioned.
Simon...
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@Northwards - Believe these were the items - https://www.toolstation.com/overflow-stopper/p51215
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Thanks for the link. Been trawling over that earlier too.
In fact there was no stud used to mount the alternator. Just a long bolt and nut on the other side. Same as screen shot from one of Mike's fantastic videos (Britannica Restorations Ltd)
The first screen shot also shows the dowel inserted.
Might have to resort to extraction for original bracket. However, that could be a fair amount of effort.
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Hi Folks,
in the process of replacing the water pump bracket on our Defender 300 Tdi.
Noticed that on the new replacement there needs to be a dowel fitted for the other dowel in the alternator to abut against. Highlighted in the image below.
Is there a part number for the dowel which fits into the bracket? It may be possible to sacrifice further the old bracket to extract?
Many Thanks,
Simon...
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Riveting as above sounds like a good solution. For some perhaps larger diameter holes, we resorted to some plastic plugs.
https://pellylandroverdefender.blogspot.com/p/roof-and-headlining.html
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Please remind me as to whether any of the electrics need to be changed to run with LED headlights?
BTW - The ORE ones do look good too.
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There was some leaking hence the strip down.
Not sure whether the leaking was due to a failed P gasket or the pump. Both are (were) original (1997, 90 odd thousand mile).
In any case, both will be replaced.
The coolant of choice has been TRIPLE QX Blue Ready Mixed Antifreeze/Coolant 5Ltr - which is an ethylene glycol based anti-freeze as recommended - and been replaced religiously every two years.
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I've gone for the offering from Turner's - Proflow (OEM)
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Thanks. I'll get one ordered.
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Hi Folks,
In the process of changing the 'P' gasket on our 300Tdi Defender.
Having a look at the water pump, it seems quite squeaky when turning by hand and not smooth. That said, there is no play. Attached is a video to hopefully help explain.
I'd be interested in peeps thoughts on the condition.
Many Thanks,
Simon...
P.S. Also having to deal with a broken bolt that holds on housing to the main engine block. Oh the joy!
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Nice. Congrats. Please do send pictures are work proceeds.
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12 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:
Varta Batteries on my 110, the last one did 13 years of neglect. I use Tayna Batteries.
Same here. https://pellylandroverdefender.blogspot.com/p/battery-box_20.html - Later dispensed with the original battery clamp and used straps instead to avoid any unexpected cross loading of the battery terminals.
Type 019 Varta Silver Dynamic Car Battery 12V 100Ah. with a CCA rating of 830A - That said, there may now be "better" models available.
Tanya delivered very promptly and well packaged. Fitted 8 years ago and still working a treat.
Fitted the same to my mates Defender 90 TDCi
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Good diagnosis with a great (simple/cheap) outcome. Certainly worth adding to the regular check list 👍
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Good luck with the rebuild. Chuck in the odd photo as you go along. It's always interesting to see other peep's projects.
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I'd say looking at the banjo, it is very much of the profile similar to the fuel filter. However, the pipes to the fuel filter/pump(s) are usually as a joined pair. As such, if it is a fuel filter pipe, probably been separated?
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Just noticed the banjo fitting on the other pipe. I'd be thinking more like the pipe to the filter. I'll take some more pictures later on that too.
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I'd be 99.999999% sure the top one is indeed the spill return pipe. Here's some images from our 300 Tdi
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Top one is spill return with the fuel pipe cut short. Bottom looks like breather. I'll nip into garage later and take some photos to help confirm.
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Perhaps once peeps have their shiny new plates and EGTs installed, we could collect and have a data sharing session? Defender model, engine type, speeds, gears, revs, workload, temps, etc...
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Instrument positioning feels like quite a personal choice. For me, the instruments that I look at most often are speed, rev, temp and fuel. These are in the main console. The boost, battery and EGT on the mini MUD console looked at less frequently. Only on long dual carriage way type hills does the EGT really start to show any movement around 500 to 600 Celsius. The battery gauge is useful to me as a indication of alternator working. Boost is useful every now and then to give an indication that the turbo is doing something and waste gate is set appropriately.
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Some more images. Hope it helps...
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What are these pipes with banjo fittings?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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@Snagger Similar deja vu for me too. Fuel lines as you state.