michael calvert
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Posts posted by michael calvert
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I've got one had for years, never used it though, its slung in the back of the garage
is itfor sale then?
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any idea's where i can get one from
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im looking to purchase a cb there are many makes any suggestions and what will fit where as space appears limited any suggestions and best fitting places thanks chris
if you want to see how you'll use one before shelling out the coing, i have a spare in the garage your welcome to if you'll stand the postage or collect it
just needs a mic and fitting it?
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though t p28 had a 5 cyl beamer plonked in?
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our FL10 did one just like, obviously a bit bigger thoguh as it was on the tractor unit, only brough tit back from workshop after been stretched, so had done about 50 miles at the most
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Only got the numbers to hand cos I did this job a few months ago...
. On a 300Tdi, the nuts and olives will be trapped on the old pump pipe stubs ( like when you undo a domestic plumbing compression joint) so you need new ones.do you not put the pipes back in?
ie just a new pump?
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doesnt look like its test driveable!
wunder what the sva would require
is it a mazda is it a RR
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ok - i have a front and rear disco axle and i was going to put them on my new 90 chassis so i could continue using my 90 up until the mot runs out (!). This answers my question - calipers are an issue !
Thanks
or use the disco calipers and put a T piece in between copper pipe at chassis and the rubber one down to caliper, that way there is no changng pipework about
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Spraying is relatively straight forward if you have the gear, it's the prep work that takes the time and to a large extent determines the quality of the finish. If you have the time (and space) to practice beforehand then you should be able to make a presentable job - but don't underestimate what's involved.
one advantage for both
Doing it yourself:- CAN SAY I APINTED THAT
Someone else doing it:- IF YOUR NOT HAPPY WITH QUALITY OR ITS NOT RGHT - ITS UP TO THEM TO PUT IT RIGHT.
patience and time is the key to it in the prep, dont think that'l do - it wont
dont skimp on paint or equipment but dont buy the top of the range if you paint once in a blue moon.
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The V5 Says...
Make - Land Rover (Obviously!)
Model/Type - 90 4C SW DT Diesel
Body Type - Light 4x4 Utility
Is this what it should say then?
would that not indicate:
90
4 cylinder
Station Wagon
Diesel Turbo?
light 4 x 4 utility - maybe a std term
some of them (TC's) may be classed as a pick after all that's what LR market them as
Perhaps yours was a HT in its earlier years??????
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It was a while back and I can't recall the exact price, it was competative, I think most places are about £50 for a boss. Give them a call if you want to know for sure.
simonites or john craddocks have them on offer normally iirc
simonites 01274 833351
J Craddocks 01543 577207
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Yeah - everything ends up with wiggly lines cut into it when you get one!
Call me dumb, but can it not run on 13 Amp???
I have cut (severed) 8mm plate with mine running off a 13 amp fuse, and that contains it's own air compressor?!?!
Anyway, good luck with it, they are damn useful & FUN!
Al.
is yours a invertor type one though?
not sure what the clarke is but may need 20amp single phase like my compressor?
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if thats the way you do a td5 how would i be able to mke my 200tdi safe?
but a valve in the fuel pipe so you manually turn fuel supply on or off, just remember when you park up to turn it of and when you get in turn it on other wise it'll gomissing or you'll get fedup of bleeding it up!
other option would be do that with an electrical valve block in line wired to a remopte switch located in a position of your choice
you should be able to wire it so it wont turn the engine over unles the switch is on (so it doesnt starve your fuel supply to the pump)
hth
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hope theres no idle tea leaves watching on here then
all the tricks will be known!
i have used a switch in line to the feed on the fuel pump though so it turns over as if the engine is wanting to start but there is no fuel (other than the littl bit in the pipe) getting to the engine
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some how i have managed to get to the nr 3 slot on Yahoo when searching for MOTOR SPORT SUPPORT, something to do with how they analyse the text on your home page, all i did was submit site and enter the key word searches as nned on the relevant sections, I used publisher to build our site though othing fancy like DW, could get hold of a copy!
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i've got a brand new set of std springs and sock for RRC sat in garage going spare if thy are of any interest to you
will be going in FS bit soon when i get a piccy done of them
think they were £150 when i bought them 3 mth ago
Michael
pm me if they maybe of use to you
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personally wouldn't buy an impact buy a decent ordinary cordless, a decent make (hitachi, dewalt, makita etc) and 18v at least
i use a dewalt 18v impact gun 1/2 drive cam ein kit box with charger and two batteries middle of your price range can cope with pretty much anything when using it on rallies i think it will take of and put back on about 5 sets of wheels before it starts to fail at cracking them from full torque, thats 100 nuts of and 100 back on!
they are pretty good and are only 1 hour to recharge
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when you log into your FTP server you should come up with a series of folders
one of which should be http docs or https docs
in there is where you need to save your home page (index.htm(l)
doesnt matter which one you put it in although id use the http (https is secure ie paypal type thingamijig's)
could try emailing you hoster you website and tell them to upload it for you!!
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these who i linked to before are sh*t hot at sorting out any problems you may have
like others say teng are excellent quality if not better than cr£p on but cheaper, next day delivery for you and will collect replac warranty stuf within a few hours or if you go see em they'l do it there and then
toolshack need to speak to gary
01254 680363
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the only stuff i use is this stuff from teng
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try looking at JCB for their loadall system that way each axle can be locked out independantly, crab steer and a whole range of options, think they lock out using a pin which drops into a locator via ram in each corner them thing works s**t hot can you anywhere, may be wide enough to bolt underneath your 90!!!
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I would allow yourself a weekend to do the conversion.
The last one I did took all day - with assistance.
An article in Land Rover World Magazine (Sept 2006) gives a good guide.
Stuart
get someone to help
try swap on for other that way you both know what comes from where and whats missing.
the strengthening plates for behind the panels where back door hinges go are need
take time do it right!!
best a luck
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mine was the little grub screw actually holding down the linkage onto the selctor fork in the top of the box, abit of locktite solved that one
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got one going spare
just as it came of
diff shafts disks callipers event still got the springs on
. On a 300Tdi, the nuts and olives will be trapped on the old pump pipe stubs ( like when you undo a domestic plumbing compression joint) so you need new ones.
bonnet pod where from
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
the mounts are all sprung opn the propoer lamps, i have run some on an evo with gas discharge lamps and the movement you get is not that noticable, the four way mounting means they are fully adjustable too!! which makes them superb