michael calvert
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Posts posted by michael calvert
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don't think they would make a difference work in a truck cab since the seat is already touching the back of the cab. therefore thought that seats that are thinner may help.
cheers
orange
buckets will be worse they are fixed vertically, if you need more leg space try a custom seat box as it would lower / raise seat height,
also buckets arent very comfy over a long distance believe me i co drive in a rally car!! try a hard tp or extend your truck cab like som ehave one here that way you get more space throughout the cabin and secure place to lock stuf up?
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Got myself a trade card today. picked up an illuminated rocker switch for the rear work light. shelf price £2.19 I paid 99p!!!!! so how do you get a trade card then?
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yes but notice the use of a stub end for a soldering iron stand? ingenious
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old fitment using a boltable crossmember underneath with mount bolted ontop of floor
now remade crossmember and resited winch, much nicer imo
and whats so heavy on the passenger side, does you winch b***h need a diet?
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I've also got a 2kg rubber mallet which is good for thumping things without damaging them.
Cheers
Jon
would that be like a kerb hammer then??? have seen those bigger!
Re power pack are these any good?
the big one has a 5" feed to a ram which used to operate a rame baut 18/20" diameter and 12' long (ish)
have two of each up for sale and about 12 drums (215L) of oil to go with them
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fine, just make sure the prop recall has been done, my mate has a new one and they rang him up saying there was an urgent recall needing checking
front prop bolts not done to correct torque - nothing major then
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Tell me about it, I know that for sure, now common as muck !!
got a silver navara for sale if you really want one 54 plate 41k on clock hugins of extra's
1 owner oiro £10750
ooohhhh and its vat free
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there always the v10 from a tourareg
w8 from the passat
as two options
re the Custom ECU, depends how audi leave them, if you buy say the whole car then a specialist can read the codes and add new ones in to the engine ECU to counter act the lack of response from the gearbox (assuming you went R380 route), this would allow you to put the enigne on its own ECU, this is easier of the ECU is unlocked (like having read only copy of a file you can only read it to make changes you copy it and save as somehtign different) we have done a few in the rally cars, but we leave them locked so if they need changing or 'tweaking' they have to come back not go to some scumbage with a transit van, laptop and 20,000 leads of chinese importers!
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where do you top up the fluids, i have posted this in international forum buit not yet recieved a reply, all ican appear to see is the inlet / outlet to / from the oil cooler
need to get some ATF in ther but can een pour it down a dipstick - unless im totally missing the point
cheers
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no it is a ZF but there only appears to be a couple of inlets/outletys to the damn thing and these are taken up by pipes running to the cooler
just going to check the link now.
cheers
couldnt seem to find anything on the www.rangerovers.net site, anyone else able to help
...........
please
(will also post this in vehicles forum
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The auto on the NAS is a ZF 4 speed pinched from a RR Classic.
The fill hole is the dipstick hole so you need a 1 litre plastic bottle of ATF with the long thin spout that fits the tube holding the dipstick.
To check the fluid level from cold, start the engine and with your foot on the footbrake go down from park to first and back again a few times, holding in each position, which ensures that the ATF has circulated all the valves. Select neutral with handbrake on and with engine still running check the fluid level. If ATF needed cut engine, top-up, check from above sequence.
If you do not have ZF then this might be wrong info!
no it is a ZF but there only appears to be a couple of inlets/outletys to the damn thing and these are taken up by pipes running to the cooler
just going to check the link now.
cheers
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where the hell do you top up the ATF level in these things, can find a dipstick (other than what feels like me at the mo) or any bungs that appear high enough up
i know they need filling up when running and are in drive but still can find where to put the fluid in,
please help
ps its a 51 plate bmw Tdi effort
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any ideas where to buy some oil cooler pipes for a 200 tdi disco..........need them asap but all the big stockests havent got any and are quoting a week for delivery
search yell.com for your local hydraulic repair centre they will make up what you want there and then in metal or rubber
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rrc shafts???
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nice use of the rear alpine windows!!
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They'll go straight on.
Matt
do some of them not have to have the centre chopped out a little to go on some early models?
the bit where the centre cap goes??
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interesting to see how you get it to work, ive bought a td5 rad to put into my 200 tdi 90 (disco donkey) when i get round to it together with a larger rad and cooler
maybe it will all help to work (think iive lost thekey it was that long ago when i started the build!!!!!
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ill second or third the tapping method - chose the strong bit of drum not near edge
might make an unworthy wipair if it needs new drums now its past 8 week old!!
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probably a little step but can make a tidy job if fitting a dash mounted CB rig:
found here on e b a y - darent say it all together
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maybe this helps others
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take the lockable cubby box out and put in normal box or a seat back in...
I would like one of them again.. - shouldn't of sold my one... but hey ho...
the diff - remove that if you can, sell seperate - I got 275 for my one, a few years back, just in the casing.
the winch - -erm prob leave it on I reckon. unless they offer a daft price for the motor, at which point take it off and sell seperate, but its prob only worth a few hundred.
Mantec - nice piece of kit, but if you remove leaves another hole in it, keep that on I reckon.
sell the sand ladders,
what are the bits in the boot - are you likely to repurchase a LR, in which case keep them for later. It'll cost you more to re-purchase them at a later date.
just my pennies worth.
ps- if you do sell the cubby box - give me a pm, I may be interested.
i have a centre seat to add back in if need be - £25 never sat on removed for a poxy cubby
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And more room in the work shop
anyone want to help me clear mine out.
complete rolling chassis and 99 % of body
250 of you best briotish pounds (oiro)
Michael can do some pictures
top vent panel missing good bulkhead modified for a v8
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Thanks chaps, appreciate your effort
Bloody place was shut, but I got by.
Mo
i used m12 threaded bar, nyloc nut each side allowed a bit of flex when lining things up, just grind off the exceess and dont get too close to the nylon!
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My flight panel
Well thats what it looked like
, its stripped down now for the SVA to take away any sticky out bits that might fail it.....still there all but behind the dash all safely taped up
wow
that will take some copying by scrapion but no doubt they will try
praise awarded looks great
Got myself a trade card today. picked up an illuminated rocker switch for the rear work light. shelf price £2.19 I paid 99p!!!!! 
, its stripped down now for the SVA to take away any sticky out bits that might fail it.....
Adding rear side windows to a 90
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
fixed ones
sliding ones
triangualr ones at the front?????
a good guide for tolerence would be position window on panel
draw round with a marker pen and use that for your cutting width!