missingsid
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Posts posted by missingsid
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So in my case it will not effect the longevity of chasis...?As I am not cuting straight the chassis,I whant just to weld some mounting for tree sliders such as here...
only..bad is in my case theat I whant to weld it without taking the entire body of the car.
My unexperienced twopenneth.
In the photo the rear attachment point is on a structure designed to take downward vertical loads from the rear tub only.
The Rock Slider will impart horizontal or angled forces into this point which it not braced for. Personaly I would consider bracing the body support across to the chassis?
My Hybred has units that were designe as Tree Sliders for trialling which have minimal vertical bracing but impart the forces horizontally to push the rear of the vehicle around trees.
What I am trying to suggest is that you need to consider what you expect your sliders to do?
Twopenneth over hope that this helps?
Marc.
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I don't think Bish will be doing anything that may get even close to needing a DVLA/VOSA inspection!!!
I'm very jealous, Bish!! If I knew 90s came with straight panels, I'd have waited for one to come along!!! :-)
"Down the line - RR rear axle, possibly the front one too, 200TDi and autobox, cage, winches etc etc.."
Not trying to be boring but wouldn't this exceed the points anyway?
Good luck with the new project, the rear crossmenber work looks good.
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Replace the flexi hose, i should think it's breaking up inside, allowing the higher pressure from the m/cyl through but restricting the lower return pressure back from the slave.
Press and release the pedal, then slacken off the union at the slave end of the flexi, if fluid spurts out under pressure, that should prove it.
To support this suggestion I blew a car gearbox up due to a rear brake not releasing becuase of a £10 brake hose! Not before spending £120 on new brake bits and hours of forum searching to boot!.
Marc.
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rub it with a bar of soap, then heat it which ever way you wish, and when the soap goes brown...its done
bit like a cake really.....Edit - just noticed it mentioned the soap method in the above ''cutting''.
Funny,
I gave up reading the "cutting" before the soap bit too
Marc.
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Hi,
Not wishing to hijack the thread but if someone could post both types of connector (PCL and non-PCL) it would Help me.
I have a full set of Aldi tools but I need to add a Male and Femaile connector to seperate the Oiler and Filter bowls and I am very confused as to what non-PCL connectors are used on the tools.
Cheers,
Marc.
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Although its not the same but the oil used in superchargers smells absolutely rotten, to the extent that it can cause 'big white telephone syndrome' . I'm wondering if the Visous clutch uses a similar type of oil and has failed - hence the stink from the oil is from the Viscous unit?
Hi Steve,
That's far too new, I have a standard "open" diff in an LT95.
Cheers though.
Marc
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Hi Bill, Steve,
If I have got this right then.
If the Low Range Gear has not welded to the shaft and made it impossible to remove I can re shim the Intermediate Gears.
However there is a very good chance that the dogs are worn and past use anyway?
Sooo, If the Low Gear has siezed onto the shaft the whole box is useless as I can not remove it, if not I can replace the Gears, shims and bearings etc at a cost.
Well as soon as it is dry outside I will have a look.
Thanks for the information it has realy helped me understand what to expect.
Cheers,
Marc.
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Hi again,
Well I dropped the oil out of the Gearbox and it was as cleans as the day it went in, the Transferbox oil was another story.
It came out black with a few bits and stank like nothing on earth, worse than baby poo. I had to struggle to keep my food down!
So I guess the bearings are gonna be toast at least?
Will update when I get a chance to pull the bottom plate and Diff out.
Marc.
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Hi Steve,
I will try but it was quite difficult to hold in gear just getting it on the drive.
Cheers,
Marc.
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I had something similar in the Hybrid, drive then no drive ....and some bangs
Turned out to be the centre diff gone bang, .....
drive was when the broken bits "Erm Meshed"
and then drive lost when they "Unmeshed" 
Nige
Hi Nige,
This is what I expect, it's a bit difficult to hear the grinding above the V8
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Hi Guy’s, someone out there might know how to help?
Before I dismantle my Transfer Box to investigate I would like to as for any experience from here?
My Centre Diff had been noisy for a while (unfortunate habit of leaving the Handbrake on doesn’t help) so I bodged it by removing the play in the bearings by removing the gasket until such time as I could replace them obviously not the best idea I’ve Had!.
Wednesday I had four bridesmaids to take out for the day and as a six seater was too expensive and my V8 Hybrid seats six, my new wife and I decided to use it instead.
Before leaving for the day I topped up the Transfer Box with the correct oil to the level and checked the tightness of the Centre Diff cover bolts.
My Hybrid has RR ratios and 7.50 tyres so it is a little over geared and with six occupants it was not too happy on some of the hills.
Symptom one, as I was going down hill I came off the gas and the TB popped out of gear, this only happened once in two to three hours.
Symptom two, on the way home I pulled up at a set of lights, on green I pulled away, twenty feet later the vehicle started to slow down and the engine slowed and laboured followed by a big bang and the TB popped out of High Range again. I popped it into Low range to pull up onto the verge and stopped. I put it back into High and drove along the verge, all seamed OK so I pulled back onto the road. Another bang and the TB again hit neutral, this time I decided to get the RAC to get me home.
When the RAC turned up (two hours later) we pushed the LR forward to give the truck more room and it rolled easily with the TB in High and the GB in neutral. It also moved onto and off the truck easily.
Back at home I had to move it to the drive way but even in Low it kept jumping out of gear.
Today I tried to perform some investigations, I figured that the centre Diff may be locked so after putting in chocks I tried the following:
Firstly - I left it in nuetral and H/B off I lifted a front wheel expecting it to unwind, it didn’t then I tried to rotate the wheel, it was free as normal.
Second – I put it in gear and lifted the motor on one side to get two wheels on one side off the ground.
Turning the rear wheel easily caused the front wheel to rotate in the reverse direction.
During these tests there were no grinding sounds or clunks.
So what do I take from this? I guess the bearings are not ceased up and that the Centre Diff is OK.
Question to the panel, has anyone had similar problems or experience, if so what do I need to replace? The answer to this may reduce the work that I need to do before I open it up?
Cheers,
Marc.
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plenty of freedom to discuss most things!
but in the correct section
as for Fuel I have sod all idea and pay what it costs just like everyone else.
the sections are on this forum for a reason or shall we have a free for all?
perhaps have this topic in Classifieds?
PS tell me of one petition that has made one bit of difference?
I bet you'll struggle.
we have seen many of them pass by and since fuel has gone up 25p/l so
I for one won't bother with this one.
Most likely just spin, but the petition against the Road Usage Toll petition resulted in an email advising that those in power had decided not to implement it.
It also indicated "Technical Reasons" exept that my company was the supplier and it works in Germany.
PS that was NOT an endorsement for it's use as I travel 100 miles a day to get to work!
Marc.
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To remove the top door will be the 2 x allen bolts (captive threads) and the 2x top door mounts, disconnect 1 x plug and a washer connector
. When this is done it will be sparayed all over and should blend in quite well
Yeah "When" being the key word......seems to many jobs on at the mo, ........and works mad too
Nige
Luverly job Nige it really looks the nuts.
To remove the top half can you not do something with the top hinge pin instead of unbolting?
Marc.
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Just looking at the VOSA website brought up this basic leaflet (warning PDF download).
It seems to suggest there still will be a SVA.
If they kept a National only SVA it would not bother me if my motor was banned from Europe, hell it might even be a benifit
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Not quite on topic but close.
I went to buy some kids clothes for my mates er kid.
Anyway Haynes have a boys shirt with
XXXX's Land Rover
written on it, trouble is the picture appears to be of a LAND CRUISER
Maybe thats why the Land Rover manuals are carp then?
Marc
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or easier to source..
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/A...m_LA930456.html
Hmmm,
They only seem to do 7 bolt swivels.
I guess it's DIY or change the axles for me?
Marc
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Ah yes - been there as well - stand on the anchors but the brakes are too cr@p to actually make much difference!!!
Dont be tempted to try and use the starter to free if off cos all you'll do is burn the starter out! You need the engine running.....
Jon
Done this a couple of times.
Used Low box once only and will never use it again.
Here's why:
1st time I tried 1st High 4x4 engaged, started engine, drove around with full brakes and V8 with lots of power, clutch freed fine.
2nd time.
Clutch stuck, Low 1st 4x4 engaged, started engine, drove around with full brakes and V8 with lots of power.
5 mins later BANG, halfshaft gone. Gave up stuck it in High 1st started engine, pulled away and stopped at a junction clutch now pererfect!!!!!
Decision, don't use Low box, you want to put strain on the clutch not the halfshafts.
Here's another way a mate of mine says that he tried this.
Remove Starter Motor and firer a fire exstinguisher (CO2) into the hole, evereything cools down at different rates and breaks the bond?
Good Luck.
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Great find.
I went through every page, and it was well worth it!
Awesome fabrication.
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Some years ago Wokingham Council refurbished a damaged lane near Reading. They made half the lane hardcore for horses and wlakers and the other side they smoothed out but left dirt.
Next time I used it all the posts seperating the dirt lane were ripped up and deep ruts damaged the lane.
Halfway down the lane the vehicle that did the damage performed a three point turn nad came back up.
Thing is the lane was located in a Tree Plantation and the only vehicle that fitted the ruts and damage was the forrestry tractor with rear blade!!
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My Series 1 V8 has a RRC flywheel and Jag preasure plate. If you use an SD1 flywheel I believe this will fit.
I can look at the original write up of my motor from Hot Car when I get home if it will help?.
When I got my replacement V8 a while ago I threw away the SD1 flywheel, then realised that the engine would have been easier to drive with it.
Con
On road the flywheel has so much enertia that the motor throws it's self forward on each upward gear change.
Pro
Off road
I drove over a log bridge with the logs cross ways on and had to go very slowly. At one point I took my foot off the pedal completely, I sware the vehicle came to a full stop in 1st low then eventualy crawled on at tickover!
Conclusion
Series 1 transfer box, V8 and RRC flywheel off road is awesome.
Warning though.
When I changed my engine I used the SD1 exhaust manifold bolts on my Philips conversion bellhousing. When these were tightened up they locked up the RRC flywheel as they were too long.
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It does annoy me quite a lot make me smirk, when these journo's describe driving a new or an old LR...
"the steering sways, you have to crank the wheels from left to right to keep it straight"
"the brakes are rubbish"
"they're draughty"
etc etc...
i wonder, these vehicles they are driving, where did they buy get their MoT's from?
all the rovers i've ever had, from my first series 2 88", lightweights, 90/110's and such, i've made sure they all work properly, i don't get that wet when it rains
, the brakes stop true and straight (and seeing as a LR is designed to tow heavy things, the brakes are by their nature, pretty big and fairly efficient (OK, a knackered mud filled drum brake isn't ))Maybe instead of slating the vehicles,. they should be reporting the testing stations or the owners for having badly maintained vehicles on the road.
Actually it sounds exactly like any of my three Land Rovers.
No Land Rover will stop in a straight line due to the Suspension design even on coils unless you fit anti roll bars. It's down to bump steer not poor brakes.
When it rains I get wet, through the door gaps and the roof.
Cold - see above comment.
Electrics, all have suffered loss of volts and burning smell for no found reason.
Wipers are all cr$p.
Washers wash the bulkhead.
As for slating the product he wasn't he was explaing the love!
Ask any TVR owner about the downside of ownership then ask if he would sell it except for another one.
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You insure it on the VIN number (as opposed to the reg plate) and if you get stopped by the law you show them the booking for the SVA test.
i admit, i was a little sceptical about trying that, but was assured by the SVA people that it's perfectly do-able.
whilst i was at the place, several Japanses grey import cars came in, and none of them had plates on (although they did have tradeplates on some IIRC), the drivers obviously work at the docks where the cars come in, as they knew the SVA team well and it was a well oiled machine.
Thanks,
I love the idea of driving with no plates but as you say if it fails then you are stuck.
So I either get it right first time or trailer it.
Marc.
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Hi Everyone,
I'm visiting Thame in April & I was wondering if there are any pay & play sites nearby that are open on a Saturday so me & a mate can kill some time.
Thanks,
Pete
Try Thames Valley 4x4 thay have some playdays around High Wycombe etc. also they may link to another club/site?
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I did about 8 years ago.
i built a 90, sent the logbook off (as it was originally a 110) and asked them to change it to "90", no-go, had to get it inspected at my house, and was instructed to get it SVA'd.
Bristol was the closest station to my house, i trailered it down (although was informed i could drive it down if i wanted, but if it failed it couldn't be driven on the road until it was fixed!
was in and out of the station in 35 minutes, and that included the paperowork! it was just like a slightly stricter MoT. they gave me the pass certificate which i then took to the local DVLA office (also in Brizzle), and got issued with it's "Q" registration. log book (V5) was in the post, i got a chit that enabled me to get some plates made up. towed it home, then had to get it MoT'd (the SVA isn't an MoT
), passed, got it taxed and job done.How do you drive it there with no plates? Thinking of building a motor but wondered about getting it there.
Cheers Marc.
bit like a cake really.....
and then drive lost when they "Unmeshed" 
mechanix gloves
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
NHS provide mine (looking over shoulder).
They will tear but the main problem is that your hanhs get hot and sweaty so when it's time to change the glove for a new one you have to let your hands cool off before you can get another one on.