Bandog

its only good for 1- Reducing emissions. 2-Reducing combustion temps. L.P.G. although burns hot, simultaneously provides a super cooling/charge cooling effect due to "Joule-Thomson" effect. This cools things down sufficiently to give a more oxygen rich mixture, and should reduce egts. Incidentally, when my 200tdi was running a leaner diesel mix (same boost though) if felt faster??? cheers

want some!

Going to do some research into this, because the same concept as l.p.g. injection applies with hydrogen. I would guess that its cleaner and better than l.p.g. and cheaper using h20 and 12v to produce. I saw these things marketed a few years ago to gain mpg and clean up diesel burn, off to do me homework, cheers.

got the egt already and its maxed out at 700 on sustained burn! 90 mph on a gps dashcam, with more left in her.

yes i am thick i can now see its an lt77, humble apols

That awful, dreadful gearbox out of the arc is no good for a practical, powerful 200tdi daily runner, I apologise for my bluntness. Mine runs 20 psi boost through a very large intercooler and tuned pump, open pipe and large capacity air filter with rolled radius flared flange. Mid range torque is truly spectacular when overtaking, when I want it on the loud pedal, on tap. When I dont need it, the vehicle returns around 37-42 mpg partly because of the 2wd option. The rover 4 speed can not do this reliably. Its my personal preferance and I think its great, cheers.

Will it be, considering its a e.u. initiative? cheers

They can be a real pigs vag, persevere with it you are doing nothing wrong, soft deadblow mallets and blowlamps I would suggest. Good luck with the chassis, they usually go bad from the inside out. Pleanty of hammer work will remove loose crud from the inside, treat it before it goes back on the road, then fill in all the holes that can let water in off the wheels, but don't fill in the drain holes. Rover designed these to let water in for some reason with holes all over the place near road wheels, cheers

You also have to scallop the cross member where the bell housing meets the flywheel housing, because there is only about 1 mm clearance on the sticky out bit of the clutch housing. This touches its vibration city, cheers

thanks lads. I recon I could rig up something sufficiently adjustable/meterable myself. I will have a go, cheers

Worth every penny, sorry for the late input. The ashcroft conversion is slick and easy to install, well made etc. The lt77 is the desperately needed strengthener in the weak drivechain for turbodiesel conversions, as the series transfer box is vertually nukeproof. The beauty of this set up is that you can get real economy when the conversion is done, and its so much less heartache than the lt230 setup. In classic landys you retain the coloured (colored) shifters in cab. I know at least 3 people with this conversion and its definitely the way forward in my opinion. I simply moved the original transfer mount crossmember 4 inches further rearward, made it removeable, and even rewelded the handbrake relay further back and just altered the operating angle. cheers.

Peterborough LRO show had some rinky dink trick trial vehicles, aparantly running l.p.g. injection direct into the turbo inlet. This has a similar effect on emissions to ad-blu I am told, on cleaning up black soot un burned diesel . ALso gives more power and torque. Is anyone out there currently running this set up? What are the pros cons and pitfalls. I can see an explosion risk straight away, cheers. p.s. just found these...http://www.p-i-fuelsystems.co.uk/powershot_diesel.htm ...and all the old thread from 09. Hope thinhs have improved since then, and prices, yikes. Imo it would only need a boost pressure switch and a jet allowing a metered dose, on off switch over ride and some brass fittings and pipe/hose work? &00 quid??? p off !!!

My ken barlow hardly ever cuts it. once off road with the wind behind me. Those series radiators were designed to run static p.t.o. applications, yes albeit with a belt driven fan, but consider this... in the middle of harvest (august) temperatures can be pretty hot when bailing or threshing. The disco and defender rads with the oil cooler must also be a good efficiency, to accommodate oil heat sink, but you then rely solely on the cooling system, and if it fails its two eggs broke in one basket. Worse case scenario of course, cheers

fantastic mr snagger, thanks. and thanks to everyone else, cheers!

My old friend has a 200tdi in his 2a 88, I have the same conversion in my hybrid. Both have no problems at all with engines warming up. We are both using series radiators and series 3 heater boxes. I have an oil cooler separate, he does not. I modified my thermostat housing (series 3 ) to accept the 200 tdi 88 degree stat, otherwise there is about 5 mm play up and down, allowing coolant through possibly. My oil temp reads between 70 and 90 degrees depending on workload and outside temps. It rarely goes near 90. The heater is scalding and its only a cheap britpart aluminium replacement matrix. The 200 tdi does warm up slowly compared to modern engines, mainly due to the huge capacity 20.20 pints 11.50 litres according to land rover discovery handbook. However when warm, running correctly and I would hasten to add with a cleaned out and descaled block, (mine took me several hours and several tens of gallons of clean water, and 2 cooling system flush chemicals (bye bye water pump, you have been warned) for me to remove all the crud from the block on a 167,000 mile unit) these units are designed to operate at around 88 degrees c, a generic engine temp across the board. Cool running engine, no! Maybe its something to do with using a series radiator, but that would not alter warm up times significantly even at temps down to about minus 2. From recollection my 200 warms up as quick as my old smiley face transit, both engines share the mother in law syndrome, just keep going on and on, cheers.

Yes its got wading breather on, push fit plastic and stainless, o ring seal job with swivel with a 6mm open bore going right up to the bulkhead with the other breather pipes. So if it is running on axle oil it can only be the rear bearing oil seal then/? thanks I think I have it sussed now.

the 200 tdi takes no time at all to heat up when BOTH thermostats are working correctly. This is a 200 tdi myth about them being cold running. If they are running cold there's something a miss somewhere!

There is nothing in the slightest wrong with the original series 3 heater matrix and box assembly! If only a little bit on the small side, the heat output is respectable... however, these vehicles are prone to scale and rust blocking up the matrix. The aluminium britpart/bearmach replacements are more efficient than the old brass. In a vehicle with a healthy cooling system in a 200tdi for example, is hot enough to cook food wrapped in foil on the dash (88degrees, one of my favorite old tricks in the old smiley faced transit) The problems with series heating systems are many fold, which worsens things somewhat. 1. Poor insulation. 2. Draughts. 3. Blocked matrix. 4. Poor thermostat. 5. Pathetic heater blower. I have modified an early disco 1 air filter, and placed a 180w circular fan in it off one of my old subaru brat utes, and it would suck start a jumbo jet! Two speed settings as per series 3 switch provided by a scrap radiator and fan resistor (picked up from the side of the road, fell off a gipsy scrap hawkers transit!) All bespoke made from recycled scrap, and I even put a cheap k&n copy filter in there to stop unwanted dust and leaves etc blowing in. All relay operated, the heater is phenominal. Its about time some aftermarket guys came up with a system that can be mounted in the original place, with more poke. But other options are available, if you have the time, money and inclination. Cheers, photos coming soon regards this.

I was thinking if anyone could advise, probably nick? I am (was) getting a heap of gl5 inside my osr drum brake assy, coming out of the axle. I am running a steep angle at the pinion, and therefore used a higher oil level in the diff. Incidentally the near side hub was bone dry. I have racked my small cranium and can't work out where this can be coming in, apart from the hub bearing seal. Am I right? or is there something missing somewhere? AS you might guess, its already written off a pair of shoes and one brake stopped locking up under hard braking. Any input gratefully received. cheers

lowering just enough to "tilt" the transfer box in slight adjustments only, if for instance its a modded vehicle and the transfer box front output flange and rear output flange are at different angles. for example, front pointing down by 5 degrees, so rear pointing up by 5 degrees. This can help in some cases. cheers

ejparrot... some land rovers were fitted with a double cardan joint mounted next to the transfer box on front props. I think td5 disco and some defenders though I may be wrong. There are many American vehicles that run them like Jeep Rubicon too etc. Better for high speed applications (road) than pure off roaders, which would benefit from the wide angle single u.j.option. As a rule parallel flanges should be adopted , whatever the angle, as the prop u.j. speeds up and slows down it causes vibration. If it is in phase and with parallel flanges, the opposite u.j. cancels this out. Vibration will occur when the prop flange angles are different to one and other. There is another option of a two double cardan prop, one at each end for extreme driveline angles, and cost! Tom woods Australia also are the only company that I know of that do a wide angle double cardan joint propshaft. As with most things of this ilk, maintenance is more complicated and important. The double cardan joint has a ball in between the two u.j.s. This can fail and become stiff if not greased often enough. ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idk3BVDVHq4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgsetMU58lk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrY0qvRZkVM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OOvYhKIUoA last video shows how the two angles cope better and run at less severe angles and smoother,cheers

interesting stuff men. Especially the input from the Maple leaf end of the world, where the snow is a much more probable likely hood. I am not sure but I think the x3 grabbers are not designed with road use at all in mind, but I may be wrong. Would they have a compound that wears too quickly with lotts of tarmac use in mind?

You don't have to suffer in a series, but your bank balance does.

I really wanted to use the x3s, but my head overruled the decision due to the road problem, and so much time spent on it. These AT3s are very very quiet indeed. Dave 88, cooper stt pro are fitted as standard to military vehicles, and get good reviews. Not sure about the value, anything other than a remould seem to be around 140 a piece. Like snagger says though, if the longevity of a more expensive boot is better, its swings and roundabouts. I guess these is the old adage of 'jack of all, master of none' which leads me back to the obvious 2 sets of wheels and tyres mindset again, or even 3 when it comes down to ice and snow.