hario'

Hello everyone, thanks for your comments, appreciated, I do read and digest and lurk in the backgrounds, I'm just always short of access to a laptop where I can upload things easily and quickly these days (hmmm didn't think do it from my phone). Should have started a new thread as I've fitted twin SUs for now to get me rolling and current topic is misleading Been working away hard between hose renovation and garage workshop build, I am having issues with piping up the brakes at the mo, hope someone can offer some insight/confirmation of my assessment; I have RRC axles and an unknown MC on this 80” hybrid, calipers are confirmed all M10 thread, I was going to convert m10 to 3/8 but then thought I’ll need a disc brakes MC to match so may as well keep it all metric. Got myself a reel of 3/16 cupro, just need to know what fittings I need for the rear axle tee, M10 din/iso bubble? And same for the (yet to be purchased) MC? Be nice to keep the MC as it’s on a custom turret to clear the bonnet but the innards look properly borked. As you can see below photos. Also as it’s SWB I’m guessing I'll need the rear line PRV as fitted to 90’s (but not fitted to the heavier 110) would this also be metric M10 DIN/ISO bubble flare? (See schematics of the two chassis layouts with PRV) Sorry for the rant I almost clicked buy on a basket of fittings but realized they’re concave and won’t work with the (also concave) MC, rear axle tee, tee for brake pressure switch I wana fit, etc (however the caliper flexes I intend to buy (def/D1) have M10 male convex at the chassis side so will need some kind of female concave SAE double flare nut?) - this means I need to buy both types of flaring tool I guess. Help appreciated and photos of progress!! I'll add photos seperately Beers! HH

No but there is a guy selling bronze replacement bushes on eBay, I just ordered one. ahem, chief ancient post excavator reporting for duty…

Hello again, been a while! (House renovation taking precedence due to misses moaning when I’m not renovating) thanks nice for the wheel & bracket - I emailed the other day (and they arrive the following day!) great service. im currently building it with gems coils and EDIS MJ & twin SU’s - MJ is a loan and I had the manifold so there. I have kept the gems manifold for MS later - I have a deadline of LM2024 in July so cannot side track with MS just yet, it’s still just a rolling chassis!! Anyway most engine accessories replaced sensor fixed, just need to find timing and fit the big bolt. Sorry I am usually a forum monkey for this sort of thing just no time for typing much these days. this is an 80” hybrid build (LT77 & coiler) so nothing fits anything…, I am on my third gearbox mounts option now (total scratch build mounts). I hope to send more photos and give context soon. LM is a 600 mile round trip for me so I have to build for reliability ish, currently looking for an EDIS8 plug repin kit as I don’t want soldered or crimped cable joints anywhere if I can help it, some wiring over the next week or so and it can be test cranked on EDIS only then I’ll be happy. ill make a separate dedicated thread if it’s easier, some people have a to do list in their thread and cross them off as they go, I kinda like that idea, beers! HH

Cool build, updates??????

This information is incorrect. the dimensions are actually 665 extended 603 compressed i need to buy a spacer now to make it work..

But that’s the point of forums

Haha well noted gents thanks and I shall. just trying to split the 77 & 230 single handedly on the deck to change the in/out seals so I can final bolt them together and not remove them once installed, before any real progress worth photographing happens

Any updates PhillS? your identifying early NAD mounts siting the tranny a different offset to later type has helped me work out why mine was sat on the pi** on the first mock up, 300tdi xmember mount asst now bought, thanks are in order. following with interest beers

I want to make a build thread but scared of potential abuse

I actually bought a really dumpy blue one exactly like you showed in your thread! I am building more of an on-road vintage style hot rod themed build so I will limit suspension travel if required due to clearance issues (extend bump stops etc)

Oh man I went through so much emotion arriving at this same dilemma, feel obliged to contribute; gems 4.6 into an 80”, those triangular thru-bolt box mounts from the 80’s RRC/90/110 (I think) wouldn’t seem to line the box up parallel with the v8 on welded in d90 v8 mounts…(?) just bought a 300tdi xmember type box mount to hopefully sort it, though I don’t believe the offsets are different, it’s just single handedly doing it struggled to position it. hope I can contribute with some good install photos here once it’s sorted. Just await my pro mig welding friend to complete the mounts then it’s tranny time lol Note how forward it is in the bay with stumpy LT77/230 & milner adapter, rear prop is micro

Excellent reply troll hunter, answer to something I didn’t know I needed!!

Thanks. Useful info.

Sorry to dig this up, I'd like to fit later lock barrels so one key fits 'most' locks, can I just change to later handles & barrrels to suit the ignition key type? And probably a later ignition lock assembly also. Currently have 4 keys, and need to use all of them to get in lol

Hello just wondering did you wet hone the bores, as in drenched them in diesel / engine oil during the procedure? Perhaps its the camera but they look like they were done dry? Cool build & following! Beers! HH

Nick, thanks! As always. Sorry if this is becoming a tangent but with related content and good spirit, hopefully I'm still 'contributing' to the thread knowledge base, therefore could I ask for a couple of clarifications on your post?; Disco and Defender 200tdi's - Do you mean they have different castings? As in the blocks are different? As I can reconfigure manifolds & chop/change ancillaries to suit chassis clearance, but you say I need a Disco specific 200tdi to suit standard series mounts? (Which is my plan btw, to use standard series mounts & engine position) I understand I will want Defender manifolds for the turbo to clear the chassis. I am determined to install LT77/LT230, bolted to 200tdi, with the engine on Series factory mounts, and then use these '90/110 LT77 mounts' per attached picture to hang the boxes? With crush tubes let into the chassis & through bolt. Seems like the most elegant solution to me.. (also lends itself to fitting all the coolers in a headlights in grille config). I have some ideas to resolve the rear prop length issue & front xmember to prop clearance. Really hope I get the yes these mounts are a good idea.. Beers & cheers! HH

Build thread; https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/202537/garage-build-which-looks-thread?page=1 I'll be updating it with a 'roofing' post if the Corona doesn't cancel my flights in April! Merci et à Votre Santé! HH

Thanks! But I want a leafer Series, with recessed headlights, and operational yellow/red knobs, and it needs to be slow and noisy and uncomfortable, I thought that was the point? LOL No, I note all comments with thanks, and it can all be reversed, besides, I like re-powering old stuff with slightly better also old stuff, which is slightly newer. Maybe I'll just find a re-powered example (200tdi or similar), fit 2.5NA inlet manifold to give the engine a more period look, rebuild the standard box, and fit coiler axles. I just really want to fit modified coiler axles to something you guys. Besides, there's not much to do in rural France! Last time I was there I was so bored I built this garage from oak trees in the garden ( Built to fit 88 Series in ] ;

Hello, off the back of this interesting thread, just wondering if I can pick the thread of knowledge here on what might be the best scope options for fitting a 200tdi/LT77 into an 88; After first clarifying some aspects; Prop length mods are fine, I know a balancing guy. I'm fitting coil axles reworked with leaf saddles so full time 4x4 if I use the LT230. Don't need an ear full about originality and VOSA points lol. This is a planning engineering exercise for the S2 I'm buying my dad for this xmas (P.s. aren't I nice lol). So; 1. 200tdi on factory engine mounts, then LT77/LT230 with brackets to pick up the factory mounts - Would LT230 drive outputs be in a good position for good prop lengths? IE not too short? I can scallop the cross member to clear if required. And are brackets on factory gearbox mounts ok for alignment of the transmission? (Assume the thickness of the bracket plate at least would put the assembly out of square?). 2. Factory propshafts retained, then 'working backwards' with custom LT230/LT77/200tdi mounts - Seems like more work than having props modded to suit? 3. Factory engine mount position, and weld on brackets for LT77/LT230? Bolt on fabrications would be 'nicer' and more my way of working. 4. If the gear lever position appears further back on the LT77, I can loose the centre seat if that's where the 'stick pokes out'. 5. I will probably use the Ashcroft LT77 to Series transfer box adaptor kit to prevent my dad loosing his marbles should he find the yellow/red knobs not present... 6. Thinking about it, can I move the engine/box mounts forward to keep stock props, and also give me a standard-ish gearlever position? If so does the 200tdi/LT77 fit behind a series front grille? This might be the best bet.. Can we buy weld-in engine/box mounts, or is cut & reweld fairly straight forward ie don't loose too much metal. Further clarifications; The chassis is not galv, I like a challenge, I'm new to this forum but a previous S3 owner and have about 2 decades of LRO mags lol. Oh and mother will be wanting to drive it, hence most of the above refinements will need to happen.. Also note I will be doing this in a barn, (which I built), in a field, in rural France, between Bordeaux / Bergerac, at my parents house.. Told you I like a challenge. Beers! NB; Many edits due to chatting a fair volume of nonsense upon proof reading... HH