2a-Egg
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Posts posted by 2a-Egg
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2 hours ago, steve b said:
Where are the bolts/nuts on the passenger side ? Surely someone hasn't welded a plate over the spring front mount plates covering them ?
cheers
Steve b
It's been filled with weld!!! Not a plate but just a blob of metal been melted in, arrrggghhhhhhh
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So as I'm working at home today, lunch time came and I thought I'd drop off the front bumper.. Think again, two images below, one of the drivers side bolts nice and visible.. Pas side....
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On 9/4/2019 at 10:58 PM, lo-fi said:
Even after warming up?
Took it out and ran it to get it up to temp then went through setting up the carb as if it was brand new, then took timing back a little. Running now, starts by throwing out a nice puff of white smoke. Then idles okay, still. Think it's not 100% but when is a series 100% haha
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8 hours ago, lo-fi said:
Even after warming up?
Yes, idle speed had fallen away.. Very odd...
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I spoke too soon... Started up this eve and idled like carp.... Damn it....
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10 minutes ago, fearofweapons said:
Thanks for the replies.
Yes had it running stationary and checked the fuel lines - no splits or leaks found.
Re the tank - what needs checking for being sealed? The pipe connections? What's the best thing to use to seal them?
Cheers Richard
The sender unit will be on the top, with spade connection on it, for your dash guage, that's a Cork seal, the you have the filler pipes, jubilee clips secure them. And the fuel pickup itself which will be a seal again cork or rubber I think. But if there is a leak then you'd see/ smell it once the seat is off I'd imagine
Hope you find the issue
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If in the cab then def start at the tank, make sure its all sealed. If running Sat still have you had the bonnet up to check for split fuel line etc?
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10 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Much, much better, well done
Took a while due to other commitments but eventually got the parts needed.. The coil to distributer lead us shorter... So moved the coil a little haha.. Funny how having all cylinders firing makes it work hahaha
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New coil and new Ht leads....
Sounds puurrrrrrfic
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3 hours ago, lo-fi said:
Doh!
The split diaphragm will have been giving a small vacuum leak, as well as leaving you with no vacuum advance. Should run a bit better with that sorted.
Sounded good after warming up carb set better and timing a little advanced, then it just started spluttering again. That's when I then found the above... All fun and games
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Sooo found out another issue, the rubber on the diaphragm for vaccum was split, so new fitted, and then pulled the HT lead off..... Ah...
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5 hours ago, garrycol said:
No - it will be specific for the model you have - have you spent 5 minutes of your life and checked the other locations - if it is not on the other spring hangers it will have been where there welding has been done.
Its not all that hard.
Alright.. I'm actually in London for a wedding this weekend. And if you read back I think my comment in jest ( the haha gives that away) about it being on any one of the hangers.. Jeez didn't know I had to be so serious about it.
And no its not hard at all... Maybe I'll spend 10 minutes just incase I'm stupid and can't find it...
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So basically it could be anywhere haha
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All looks great, wish I had the space like this, I only have my driveway and it's just not the space needed.
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30 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
Though is that welding on the dumb iron above?
Try on the chassis rail proper, above the bit where you are looking now.
Think there has been work on the iron, front of it.
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3 minutes ago, garrycol said:
I found an old 67-71 2a chassis in the bush 2 weeks ago and its number was as I indicated - the passenger rear - likewise another earlier series 2 I inspected for club registration was also on the passenger rear. I think series 1s are up the front somewhere, and my 101 is the front drivers side.
Does it really matter as it will only take 5 minutes to have a look on all spring hangers - it doesn't need to be hard.
Why make it easy though hahaha
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Not looking promising, not seen any sign of a stamp or engraving.
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3 minutes ago, Gazzar said:
If it's 52 years old, it was made in the late sixties, so chassis number will be on the spring hanger of the front spring, I think.
It rolled off the line on the 14th August 1967.
I have got most of the paint off, can see bare metal and a bit of rust, but no clear sign of numbering. It looks like the original part, or a damn good welder replaced it...
Also I'm looking at the front nearside hanger
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1 hour ago, garrycol said:
The chassis number should be stamped on the rear passenger side spring hanger
Ive been told front??
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1 minute ago, Romahomepete said:
Do you mean S2 or 52 (80" S1) the numbers are in different places. Also if it is ex mil it could be somewhere different.
Peter
It's an S2a and is 52yrs old. After a Web search online from the plate on the bulkhead it came up as dispatched to a dealership in Nottingham. Was just going to see if they matched up.
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So I'm thinking of making sure the plate in the cockpit is actually the right one. Which means finding the number on the spring hanger. My truck is 52 and the chassis has paint on it. So I'm thinking thinners to get it down to metal.. But then what, because 52yrs it's not going to be pretty and just show me the stamped number.
Ideas anyone...
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So because the weather is rubbish here this evening, my plans of getting out and about were washed away, I have put a little paint onto the winch, will be doing the main plate in matt black and the working area in silver.
New user new 2a owner
in Series Forum
Posted
Yeah that is just what it is a pile of pigeon poop!!! In the form of a lump of metal.. 😢